Do it yourself. Take the money you were going to use to have someone do it for you and buy some punches and a vise block. I do all the work on my rifles. It’s not that complicated. If you run into a problem, there are plenty of sites to get the answers you need. Educate yourself on your rifle, you’ll be glad you did!
so other than the proprieatary wrenches specific for each handguard, what tools do i need for this? I have lots of punches and general use tools but not many specific for guns or AR’s
Not necessarily the rail you want, but the idea is there. You don’t need everything he’s using, but it does help.
thanks for the link. the write up that has will really help. is there a vice block you guys recommend? seems that and the wrench are all i need
I got the set from/made by Brownells.
I’ll look into those.
Is this the wrench I would need for the YHM? http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/forearm-wrench-prod25016.aspx
Depends. Some places will do it for about twenty bucks. Which after tools and time, to me, is worth it for some rails.
However. I installed my TRX Alpha myself. Cut off the delta ring, spring and chopped down the FSP. Took about 45 minutes. Finished product is well worth it. Especially considering the low cost of the TRX to begin with. I bought a 30 dollar 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel to do it, I needed a grinder anyway for work, so I didn’t roll that cost into it. Since I was buying it anyway.
You’ll need an AR15 armorers wrench, punch set and a vice block and you could get by with that. As you do the work on your ar you’ll relize what other tools you’ll need.
I have found it really convenient to just have Bravo Company intsall them, great selection of rails and no hassles. Have DD rails on all my BCMs right from the factory. Love 'em. If you enjoy the DIY process then by all means go for it, otherwise can’t beat ordering them from BCM with the rails installed.
This could be a stand-alone sticky.
Sold advice.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
oh i didnt know BCM would do it. how much did they charge?
I just saw this and agree. Honestly if you are filled with this many questions about what it is you are going to be performing on your rifle…
Don’t. There are so many threads of people that attempted something and are now having to go find that gun smith, or worse. I might be overly cautious here, but if you get a setting incorrect…there are more serious repercussions. A mechanic works on a car…not a rifle. You may get it right, and then you may not. I would rather make sure it gets done right, because my wife or my kids may be shooting it, and I want to know it is done properly.
7 years of college?
Trimming a FSB is actually quite simple, I did mine in about 45 minutes and had never even attempted taking one off before I decided to get a rail. Steel punches and a 2lb hammer from harbor freight did the trick. I got a troy bravo rail so no proprietary stuff, it was stupid easy to do it all. I would not bother sending something like that in or taking it to a gunsmith. I am the DIY type though, partially because I enjoy it and partially because I don’t have the cash to pay someone to do stuff.
I had Rainier Arms install a DD rail system because I had a flash hider that needed to be pinned and welded at the same time. Due to needing to take off the FSB, it was $100 for the rail install. I installed the same rail on another rifle with a 16" barrel, it wasn’t a pain at all.
If this is a one-time-only type deal, I’d just have someone else do it. My brother has swapped uppers/rails/etc for him and myself at LEAST 50-60 times and it’s pretty easy and straightforward but can be costly for the right tools.
Right now, removing the damn FSB is the hardest part. I think installing the barrel nut will be easier.
Installing the YHM bbl nut doesn’t require a torque wrench. It’s not too hard to do, as long as you are confident/competent with the basic tools, such as punches, hammers, and wrenches.
However: Have you held any other rails outside of the YHM? I had a lightweight on my 6920 until I got the chance to hold an RIS II and a C4. They felt so much better in the hand that I ditched the YHM. They are much smaller in diameter, and their anti-rotation features give you the added security that they won’t work the bbl nut loose.
If you are totally sold on the YHM, I have the wrench, rifle-length Lightweight rail, bbl nut, end cap, and specter clamp/bolt-on gas block (.750 diameter bbl) and instructions just sitting here taking up space. PM me if you are interested in it, I’d rather let it go cheap than sit on it. 
Doctor, lawyer, veterinarian…
procrastinator…