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OK, after playing with this idea for the past couple of days here are the “improvements” I came up with. I included different pics from my previous Post - https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=56712. If some of this doesn’t make sense, take a look at this other Thread and maybe it’ll be clear.
I found the 3-pack of Bausch & Lomb Contact Lens Cases for $3.88 from Wal-Mart. I like the B&L Cases better because they have tabs on the bottom that serve as “wingnuts” when tightening and untightening the cap.
I used a new 24-tooth hacksaw blade (without a hacksaw frame) and separated the caps from each other by cutting straight between them. This way it leaves a little piece for a tab to drill and attach a lanyard. I left the caps in place but loosened the caps up about 1 turn, so the hacksaw blade teeth do not rub on the sides of the cap.
I used my pointer and middle finger knuckles on top of the caps to hold it down on a piece of wood while I cut and that seemed to work well. I just ran the blade between my fingers that were holding the caps down and worked the saw blade back and forth.
After I finished the cut, I left the caps on and sanded and/or filed the edges away until they were even with the cap. I shaped the “tab” edge to retain as much of it as possible and shaped it to put a hole for the lanyard. To get a hole, I heated a piece of (1/16”) tie-wire with my propane torch to melt a hole. With the caps still in place, I melted a hole in the tab. I wanted the caps on because there’s not much room on the tab for a hole and I didn’t want to put a hole where the lanyard would be in the way of the cap screwing down.
Then, I used a 3/32” bit, twirling it between my fingers and reamed out the hole, then, chamfered the edges of the hole with a 3/16” bit. I used my pocket knife to make sure there wasn’t a raised edged around the top side of the hole that might interfere with the cap tightening. I inserted an 8” piece of braided line and tied an overhand knot with both ends to form a lanyard for the Case.
To install the batteries, I put small piece of foam weatherstripping in the bottom of the Case, then put a nickel-sized cutout from a zip-lok bag to keep the foam from sticking to the battery, then a battery, then a nickel-sized piece of plastic that I cut from the battery packaging, to insulate between the batteries. Then, the the second battery and then a another nickel-sized piece of zip-lok bag with the last piece of foam on top before I screwed the cap. The foam helps secure the batteries in place and stops them from rattling.
I screw the cap on tight and the wingnut tabs on the bottom help a lot compared to the Cases without the tabs. I then use a fine tip Sharpie and on the bottom, I write the size battery in the Case with the date that I sealed them.
Obviously, this is to prevent my spare batteries from getting crushed, dirty, or wet. Since my Sig’s Crimson Trace uses the 2032, I’ll put these Cases in my Handgun bag, Rifle bag Heck, and in my AR’s mag carrier. All of this probably sounds goofy but I can just see me going to shoot and…dead T-1 or I need these batteries one day and they got wet, the foam is stuck to them or they got bent…??
What’s funny is two days ago, at the range I showed this to a buddy of mine when the line was cold. He’s a loud cocky guy and he proceeded to laugh and pick on me in front of the other guys about my little “toy”. Thirty minutes later, I see him piddling with his EOTech and getting mad, so I asked him what was wrong. He mumbles something, and I ask him again, he finally says all pissed “My batteries are dead!” I told him real loud, “Hey, Bub…I don’t have time to figure you out a “toy” to carry your N-batteries but I’ll cover you while you run to Wal-Mart!” 
Hope someone finds this useful…
Nice!