The more I look into the BCM KMR 13" rail the more i want one. Only issue is that I have a 14.5" barrel that came pinned from factory with a Battlecomp 1.5. There are two issues with this which I will explain in detail.
First, if I had a cheap flash hider pinned such as an A2X, I would have no problem trashing it, replacing the barrel nut and pinning another cheap muzzle device. Problem is I have a Battlecomp 1.5 that was pinned from factory. Destroying this to change the rail is a tough pill to swallow :sad:. Is there a gunsmith out there that can drill out the existing pin, replace barrel nut and pin the same muzzle device without trashing it and use the same dimple on the barrel(without having to make another one)?
Second, This upper came with an A2 front sight. Before installing my current Troy 13" rail, I had the sight tower, bayonet lug and sling swivel shaved off. Will this gas block fit inside the BCM KMR rail or do I need to purchase another gas block?
Much help appreciated and if you can recommend a gunsmith that can do this carefully and not take months to complete the job I will really appreciate it.
This is exactly why it is recommended to skip the 14.5 uppers unless one is going to use the upper in its NFA configuration. I would imagine the chopped FSB will fit, but I don’t know if you would be able to access the pins or not.
My guess is that you’ll have a hard time (at best) finding someone who can save and reuse the BC. I would start by calling Adco and Rainier to see if either of them can do it.
This, just pay the damn tax stamp for the lower and be done with it, makes much more sense long term so you don’t have to screw with unpinning/pinning non sense.
I realize that everyone possesses varying degrees of mechanical aptitude but I find it sad that the mindset that a pinned muzzle device will be destroyed in the removal process, is the norm.
I removed them, with basic hand tools and maintained reusable condition, in 15 minutes.
I say, if you have the tools and a little bit of skill, do it yourself. You’ll save money and feel better about the project.
You can probably find someone to remove it but with no guaranty he will be successful. Time is money and it looks like you are willing to throw good money at bad. Sell your upper and buy a new 16" BCM with the KMR already mounted.
Depending on how deep the pin goes, it can be removed without trashing the threads. The threads can always be chased as well. If one takes his time to mill into the weld spot, the pin should be able to be coaxed out hereby saving the brake to be used again. Most gunsmith just mill straight across the brake to get it off as quickly as possible and aren’t concerned with saving it. For the record, there are much better brakes out there if you want to replace it.
The biggest question is why are you so desperate to put a KMR on even if it requires all this trouble?
What will the KMR do that your current rail won’t? Do you frequently find yourself humping your rifle in the bush and think “Wow, these extra 6 ounces are just killing me”?
I have no real input on any other part of your post, but I’m using a KMR with a shaved A2 underneath. So… depending on how much they took off, it’ll fit. If you’ve got a bench grinder or a dremel and some cold blue, you can fit it yourself.
A seasoned gunsmith can handle this for you and save the comp. I just swapped out a DD LITE for the 13" KMR. It was a shallow pin and a spot weld from BCM (factory). This isn’t rocket science for someone experienced.
Saving a pinned muzzle device is not difficult at all. If you have access to an end mill, just kiss the weld with a cutter a little smaler than the weld until you see a ring around the pin. Tap on the muzzle device with a small hammer and the pin will walk out enough to grab it and pull out.
Or you can use a big file and do the same thing.
I’ve removed and reused three BCM A2Xs, I even reused the pins.
I second this advice. Doing the same, I have re-used 4 muzzle devices so far. I used needle files and a shade tree gunsmifs best friend the dremmel tool. When you get frustrated just remember “Its for the children”. If it weren’t for that extra 1/4" on that barrel, these darn guns would run amuck doing who knows what. I guess that’s why we have to have paperwork on the little ones, they’re like dangerous exotic pets that could EAT YOU. :eek:
Considering that you have to ask permission to leave the state with it once it’s registered, it’s not worth it IMHO to register a lower receiver unless you’re going to be going 12.5" or shorter. 14.5" barrels simply aren’t worth the hassle to me.
My thoughts exactly. Or a new barrel. Personally, I’d buy one of them new fangled BCM BFH ELW uppers with a KMR.
I have a couple of rifles with pinned devices hanging off the end. On one of them I put an APEX Machine 12" rail which clamps to the stock barrel nut very well. The other I kept in a KISS configuration. 16" barrels are way easier if you do not or (in my case) can not get a Tax Stamp.
I don’t mind pinned. I’m not trying new muzzle devices every time someone comes out with a new one, I’m not trying new handguards every six months, and I’m not burning out barrels that often.
Like others have said, I don’t feel the need to change rails or muzzle devices often at all, it’s just that I really like that KMR rail and would like to give it a try. I don’t have any keymod rails.
Anywho, here are two pics. One is of a barrel I just recently had pinned with a Battlecomp(took the pic before they pinned it), showing the pic for reference of the pre-drilled hole. The second pic is of the barrel I would like to have the pin removed and what it looks like.
When you get frustrated just remember “Its for the children”. If it weren’t for that extra 1/4" on that barrel, these darn guns would run amuck doing who knows what. I guess that’s why we have to have paperwork on the little ones, they’re like dangerous exotic pets that could EAT YOU. :eek:
