Ok, so I have one of the Troy/Viking Tactics TRX Extreme rails (with the slots), and I’m trying to figure out how the hell I’m supposed to put the accessory rails on. The backing plate is sliding around all over the place. Please don’t tell me I have to take the hand guard off every time I want to add or change one of the rails :suicide2:
Please help! :help:
Its easier if you take it off.
I would drop the rail in and use something to hold it until I could get the screws started. Its a pain in the ass. No way around it.
Much easier if the rail is off.
It didn’t come with any instructions?
J
Maybe stick a long flat head screw driver down there to hold the backing plate?
No, it didn’t come with any instructions as it was pre-installed on the 6.8 ARP upper I bought. I wouldn’t even know the correct amount of torque to put on the allen screws to tighten the rail back down.
Try to jiggle to where you want it to go and then hold it in place with a widget. You decide what kind of widget you want to use. Then install the screws. Or you could take the handguard off…
Ok, so do the allen screws that hold the hand guard on have to be torqued to a specific amount or is it just hand tighten?
You’ll need to remove the handguard to install the rail segments. Also, when you re-install the handguard the barrel nut needs to be torqued to 30-60 foot pounds. As far as the hex-head screws, turn them a half-turn past hand tight.
http://troyind.com/manuals/Viking-TRX-Extreme-Manual.pdf
J
I use a 90 degree pick with a pencil eraser on tip to hold the backplate (through a neighboring slot) until I get the screws started.
Ok, just took the hand guard off, super duper easy.
DaBears, you made it sound as if one has to re-torque the barrel nut every time you take the hand guard off. Just a context issue I think.
definitely easier with it removed. I did just adjust one of the rails on my TRX Extreme without removing it the other day.
I tied a knot in a piece of twine and fed it through one of the screw holes so that the knot caught on the back side of the bracket. Then I fed the twine through the rail by the barrel to the desired location. Once the twine was through the rail I fed it through the screw hole in the rail piece. This let me hold it in place while I used a small screw driver to push it the rest of the way against the rail and then get the first screw started. Pull the twine and start the other screw, then tighten.
Be careful not to strip the screws (ask me how I know) Troy was great about sending me longer replacements which may not have worked if I didn’t have a pencil barrel.
No, you’re right. I don’t know why I threw that in there. It was probably a by-product of paying more attention to the TV than the keyboard while typing.
J
Lurker with a helpful hint:
I’ve found that initially attaching the rail segements and backing plates with longer screws helps. The additional screw length allows you to grab onto those elusive and ever-sliding-out-of-position backing plates a little easier. You may also use a paint stir stick split lengthwise or a similar improvised tool to help hold them inside the rail while your third hand is threading the screws. You may even want to try a little loop of Gorilla Tape to keep the plate on the stick. Once you have it secured, remove the longer screws one at a time and replace them with the factory ones. And yes, it’s just about impossible to do with the unit attached to the upper.