I was just wondering if you always do a full length resize, or just the neck? I can see a full length if there is a chance of firing the round in another firearm besides the one that originally fired it, but why work harden the brass if all you need to do is touch up the neck. Because of the elasticity of the brass after being fired it should still cycle if fired from the same chamber after reloading. I was just wondering your thoughts on this as when I reloaded with my dad he did not do a full length resize for his bolt guns. He would just set the die high and lower the decapping pin low.
Getting started in reloading for my AR and was wondering the same thing. From what I’ve read you need to full length resize for semi-autos because of tighter chambers. Waiting to hear from those that have done it and answer your question.:big_boss:
If you do not want to worry about jams, bolt not closing, etc., then FULL RESIZE, it isn’t hard work. I always resized fully…
If just range plinking, then I guess it doesn’t matter much as long as it drops into the sizing gauge fine.
Rmpl
I am going to load a small batch Saturday and try to shoot that evening or Sunday. I’ll let you all know what I find out.
Rule of thumb is to always FL resize for gas guns.
Neck size only for bolt guns.
While I am mostly a gas gun guy, my single lefty centerfire bolt action prefers FL resized brass over neck sized, so it’s not always a hard and fast rule.
However, you’re likely to run into chambering problems sooner or later if you don’t FL resize gas gun brass, usually headspace issues or feeding problems.
I have my Sizeing Dies set so the case drops in a Wilson Case Gauge,I use them for all my Gas Guns,AR,M1a & M1. But then thats just me !!! 
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=456614
I neck size for my bolt gun and it works great.
For my AR’s I used to use full length dies but now have moved to small base dies as one of my AR’s is pretty picky. The small base dies seem to work great and no issues with the brass so far.
Full length resizing works the brass to hard. Recipe for case failure and a nice KB.
Good to hear from the experienced folks on this issue. FL size dies it it for me. Thanks.
I do not reload 223 yet, nor do I shoot a gas gun for accuracy. Im goning to in the future. Are you saying to full case size the gas guns BUT neck size only the bolt gun stuff?.
Can you share your process and order or steps your taking
Tumble.
Deprime.
Size.
OAL/Trim.
Primer pocket clean/fire hole cleaned.
Set primers.
Load.
Measure OAL.
Id like to slim the process down. Haven’t had good luck with the primer/sizing dies at the same time, especially in the .308 rounds.
Tips please.
D Williams
I think it depends on the rifle,lots of people Neck Size only for there Bolt gun,but its not required thats for sure,hell with a bolt gun your brass lasts alooooong time anyways & the neck sizeing just makes it last longer !! But you can full length size for a bolt gun and there is no harm in that. My order of “Reloading” goes like this:
First time reload,whether its from once fired brass that I bought,shot,or otherwise,if it has Crimped Primers,I use the Lee Decaper Die,it is a Extra step,but if ya run into a tough primer/crimp,you won’t bust the decapping pin in your main resizing die. If the crimp is already gone or there is none,I use my normal Rezieing die.
After rezieing I tumble to get any lube or residue off the case.
Check the case in my Wilson Case Gauge,this will tell you everything you need to know pretty much. If it fits and sits in the gauge as it should,you can tell if it needs to be trimmed,if it will fit the chamber,etc !! I also like to use a primer pocket uniformer,Sinclair Internationl sells them,your trying to lose steps,;),but I add this one,just because I like to make sure my primer seats “fully”,ya only have to do it one time & then those cases are good to go the 2nd time around.
If I need to trim I will,if not,prime it,throw the powder in it,bullet,seat,done deal !! All 55 grn FMJ with Canalure I seat to it,only crimp them if they are for long term storage,or something else,I don’t normally crimp. With that said,I always check to make sure they fit in the mag & if so,your good to go !!!
I also load alot of 308 (M1a Stuff) and trying to resize & then prime all in the same operation is a pain I think,it can be done,but !!! 
I use the Lee hand held primer tool,I think they are around $12/$15 bucks,well worth the money,they work great,feel positive when seating the primer & ya can prime alot in a short time. 
To date, I have neck sized over 300 rds of first fired brass and shot them out of my AR with no problems whatsoever. Yes, even after hearing all the horror stories of jams, slam fires and magazines unable to be fully loaded with neck sized brass (My mags top off like with factory…dunno where that one came from) I neck sized my AR brass.
I don’t suggest everybody run out and try it for themselves, but from what I understand, some chambers are more forgiving with neck sized brass than others and apparently mine is.
I started out with 10 rounds split into 2 magazines to start with and eventually moved up to one full mag. Then I started loading up 50 at a time. I went out today and burned off 100 rounds without a hiccup. As long as a piece of factory brass was fired out of my weapon, I have been golden with neck size reloading…once. I haven’t tried a second neck sizing however, I figure I shouldn’t push my luck.
Like you I load 1000’s of match rounds a year for training/practice. Im still using the RCBS rock chucker, for the simplicity and the ability to review every step taken.
Think Ill keep doing it the way Ive been doing it. Winters here and it makes for a nice mellow day of good music and loading. Just tumbled 1100 cases of .308 and 300 .300wm cases for this weeks load session.
On another note I really screwed up a few months ago. I was full size resizing some .338 lm ammo 400 cases. Some how I didn’t set the head up right and I resized all but the last 32nd of the brass near the base.
I loaded the brass and THEN discovered my mistake. I can shoot it but its tight on the bolt/chamber. So to fix it properly I had to buy a special bullet puller and will pull all 400 bullets, and resize the brass the correct way.
Thanks again for the info.
D Williams
FWIW…even most of the benchrest boys (short range) are fl reloading after every firing. They use custom dies made from the same reamer and adjust the die to minimize too much working of the brass. The problem they were running into w/ neck sizing only was inconsistant brass stretching and could feel different pressures upon closing the bolt. Some felt this caused flyers.
I got away from neck sizing all together and batch my brass and just toss them after so many loadings depending on firearm and pressures I’m running.
If you must neck size, watch for pressure closely.
I full length size every piece of brass I reload, including those I use for NRA and practical long range competition.
For bolt guns I neck size only.
Semi-autos I full length every time.
I tumble the brass after the size deprime to remove the lube. This also cleans the primer pocket (somewhat anyway). There’s no need to clean the primer pocket anyway unless you are a bench shooter.
I’ll sometimes ream the flash-hole on new brass only, sometimes not.
Spot check a few for O/A length - no need to check everything. Same with trimming - no need to check all if you have a good trimmer.
I FL resize everything - bolt guns and especially all gas guns. [What happens if you accidently mix in someone’s brass with yours?]
No need not to do so unless you are an experienced bench rest shooter, or you’re trying to wring out the last tiny little bit of accuracy in the bolt gun - and nothing wrong with that, if it floats your boat.
I shoot my (SPRish) AR to 700 meters with some success btw, and FL size. It a small base die as well - not that it really matters.
Use a Chamber Check gauge to set the sizer so you don’t overwork the brass.
My practice as well.
Thanks for sharing your load procedure.
I like the idea of de-priming before tumbling, makes sense. I have routinely FL sized and think Ill continue to do that. Seems like it takes me days to process and load my 308 brass anymore.
Im looking at a Redding micro die set up aswell.
Is anybody using the Tungsten dies, the ones that you don’t have to lube brass with. Would this be a good investment.
My loading is very basic, Ive had great success by simply doing the basic loading and paying attention to detail " Most of the time ".
Thanks again for the tips.
D Williams
I tryed Neck sizing for AR use…no love. Full length sizing only now.