A couple of weeks ago I purchased a DSA SA58 and I love it. The other day I was at the fun store wasting some time over lunch and fondled a M1A which got me to thinking that I might like to have one to go with the FAL. I can pick up a standard model with a green or black composite stock for about $1400 or a Scout Squad with a black composite stock for $50 more.
Several years ago I recall reading a number of reports of problems with SA M1A, regarding bolts, extractors, feeding issues, out of spec receivers, etc. and it seemed that everyone was pushing prospective buyers to LRB (for a premium and for the forged receiver), Fulton Armory, searching out a preban (mainly to have a gun with GI parts), or buying a Poly or Norinco and having it worked over by a builder.
Has SA gotten back on track with their rifles and they’re more than likely gtg, or is going to be a crap shoot?
How do you know if you have GI parts or not? I purchased an M1A (that I want to trade for a 6450 now…) that does not disassemble completely like a GI model. Is that an indicator of non-GI parts, or is it based on date?
It used to be you could look at drawing numbers and tell on alot of the parts (The bigger ones). But I have heard that SA is adding in the fake numbers now. One way I used to do it was the way it was parkerized. That is what would catch my eye when examining rifles. The USGI parts I have seen had a “greener” tinge to the parkerizing(probably due to age) while the newer parts had a nice flat grey color. I don’t remember a time that I found a part that I thought was USGI and wasn’t. But your best bet is to go by drawing numbers, especially on an older rifle.
The smaller parts like the extractor or the bolt catch, I don’t know other than color and looking at how they are machined. I usually just bought USGI parts from Fulton.
Springfield Armory, Inc. was marking commercial manufacture parts for the M1A with drawing numbers as early as 1977, e.g., bolts, trigger housings and operating rods. You can tell the difference between the commercial markings and genuine USGI markings if you know what to look for.