I have a Noveske N4 Basic and the stock trigger in it has atleast 3 very creepy spots. Luuuuv the Noveske but this trigger is a problem. The creepy spots are so bad that trying to engage targets out to 400 the creep spots trick me into thinking the trigger is about to break and then it blows my shots.
I don’t need a uber trigger job, just some clean up for a smooth pull/break. I have several Arkansas stones and would like some tutelage on how to clean up the trigger (& not F it up).
I am not an expert, but I recall that the main concerns are taking off too much, through the case hardening, or changing the geometry of the components.
Don’t know what kind of trigger you are looking for… but I simply polished the contact points of the hammer and trigger(Stock Components) and it is a very clean break. Still 4.5 lb pull or so… (used a fishing scale) but its clean. 0 creep or take up. Just what I did… I would suggest not playing with the springs by changing the bends or anything. I followed directions i found on the internet and there was a HUGE amount of creep. After I put a new set of springs in it was perfect.
I just got done polishing the trigger/hammer contact points with some 3M rubbing compound using a dremel/buffing wheel. ALOT smoother pull. I then followed the ‘15 min trigger job’ on the internet and it lightened up the pull nicely. I didn’t cut my hammer spring, I just put one leg of the spring under the trigger pin. For what you are experiencing, I would try polishing. Be gentle, too…
Gently polishing the contacting surfaces will not hurt anything. I polished my trigger group and it cleaned up the trigger pull a lot. It’s still heavy, but it breaks cleanly now.
Grinding or honing your trigger group can screw up the geometry of the contacting surfaces, and honing too much can remove the case hardened steel, exposing the softer steel underneath. I would avoid this.
Regarding the bending of springs, since you did it a different way than I had originally, how is the creep/take-up, and weight of trigger pull etc.
You said you put one leg under the trigger pin… when I originally took my rifle apart, both legs were under the trigger pin, are they supposed to be on top? Thanks
I followed Iraqi Ninjas suggestions and used the old fashioned more brass method… I went and shot another 500 rounds and I have to admit I can tell that some of the creepy spots are gone:)
Tomorrow I am going to inspect the contact faces and see if doing some very conservative polishing is worth my time … I have no intentions of doing any surgery on metal or springs just want smooth burr free metal.
Doesn’t need to be a mirror finish, just polish until the grinding marks (gouges) are gone from the faces of the contact surfaces. I put mine back together a couple of times during the polishing process, and could feel it getting better until the gouges were gone. Trying to go for a higher polish after that didn’t net a return for me.
Both of my hammer spring legs were above my trigger pin. The pic is not my rifle: http://www.gunblast.com/images/DPMS-308/MVC-008F.jpg
I put one of the hammer spring legs below the trigger pin and this helped lighten up the pull a little. I then bent the trigger spring legs slightly. I am still interested in purchasing some JP springs but my trigger has dramatically improved.