HK G3 Wood Refinishing tips?

Hello,
I just bought a set of HK G3 wood handguards i plan on mounting to a PTR-91 in the coming months. I could really use some info/tips for refinishing these.
First off, i got them from RTG and i must say they are in very good condition, well worth the money. There are some dings and knicks, but nothing too serious. I have already removed most of the remaining oil and steamed out most of the dents as best i could.

Before i attempt to sand them down, i was curious if anyone knew the wood or finish type. It appears to be Mahogany, but i’m by no means a woodworker. The finish didn’t fare too well over the 50+ years in storage, but it appears to have a nice red tinge in it.

I plan on using 220 Grit Sand Paper to get it nicely sanded down. I cannot remove any of the hardware on the stock or handguard, so my only real choice is to cover them in painter’s tape and hope for the best. For a finish, i’m using Minwax Pre-stain wood conditioner, and Red Oak 215 to match the original.
Any advice before i attempt this? I welcome any opinions on this project.

Hello and welcome. I’m not 100% sure, but I think it’s walnut. When I refinish surplus wood stocks I usually spray them down with Purple Power first to get most of the stain, oils out. Let it soak about 15 minutes, rinse w/ warm water. Start with 220, 440, then finish with 600 grit sand paper. In between papers I’ll use extra fine steel wool to bring back the grain. Stain or dye as desired, using the steel wool again between coats. Then seal with Tung oil, again lightly buff with the steel wool.


I’ve used the “slurry method” on a fair number of stocks (including several CETMEs) with good success.

Follow the link for details:

http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notesfinish/wood/pagewood.shtml#anchor4

I usually cut the stain with linseed oil to help control the color. A little Japan Drier helps the linseed oil dry faster.

Most military stocks weren’t sanded beyond 400 grit (if that). Beyond that will not look factory original. I do have to admit to getting carried away and sanding all the way up to 1500 grit on a Garand stock, “just because”. It ended up looking like a glossy polyurethane but was all oil. A coat of quality furniture wax helps to seal the wood against moisture - don’t forget the barrel channel & under the buttplate.

Thanks for the input.

Torsion, you did a real great job with those. A bit more glossier for my taste but they look excellent.

I definitely won’t go over 440 grit like Bubba said. I like finished furniture, but for a rifle i do want some of that ruggedness in them. I’ll pick some sandpaper up at the hardware store and get to work this weekend.

I completed sanding off the stock and handguard. Turned out to be a lot easier than i expected, and turned out fairly good.

There are some spots where i could not remove the original finish, which i’m hoping with cover up with the conditioner and stain. The brown “splatters” are homemade wood-filler i made with wood glue mixed with sawdust i collected while sanding. The photos were taken with a phone, so bare with me.

You can also raise most of the dents out of the wood with steam. I’ve done it by putting a damp cloth on the stock and steaming it with an iron.
Obviously do this prior to sanding as it raises the grain. Works very well.

I tried it. Worked on some of them, but not all. I like a nice “Surplus” look anyways. I used a tub of hot water and used an iron and cloth. I heard you could also dip them in boiled water (Obviously taken off the fire) but i couldn’t find enough information about it and didn’t want to risk the stock for a few small dents.