i am a noob at this wanting to try and get rid of what little recoil my ar has
also looking for help in choosing a low profile gas block in order to put a full length hand guard
thanks a ton
Does your lower have a carbine receiver extension?
As far as the gas block is concerned Vltor, BCM, Centurion, and 87 Industries all make fine lo-pro gas blocks.
Yes it’s a plum crazy lower retractable stock
You won’t get rid of it…best you can hope for is to moderate it a little by spreading the impulse over a longer period of time. If it’s a carbine gas system, you have less margin to work with.
You might try a full-auto carrier and a compensator. As to buffers, try increasingly heavier ones until you find the one that works reliably with the ammo you’re shooting.
Will increasing the weight expose being able to damage anything ?
What does a full auto carrier provide that a semi does not ? It soundsike a stupid question but I don’t know the difference … And I’m looking into getting a battle comp 1.0
Read this thread it’s a good start: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?141036-Tuning-the-Gun-101
No. Too heavy a buffer and you’ll see failure to lock back on empty mag, possibly short stroking. No damage.
Full auto carrier is heavier.
Depending on what you have for a front sight, you may not need a new gas block, but chop/shorten the one you have.
Even if your art skills are not up to par, it’s generally not visible under the rail.
Thanks a lot for all the info y’all appreciate it
With a standard car buffer and H3 buffer you can make H and H2 buffers by swapping weights. That way you won’t have to buy 4 buffers to see which one works best.
If you have a standard front sight block, I’d keep it and use a Centurion C4 in the appropriate gas system length.
I’d recommend the spikes T2 Buffer. It’s considered a heavy but not as heavy as they’re T3. Also it’s filled with tungsten powder rather than weights which seems to make a bit of difference with bolt bounce.
Synthetic lowers are not very durable. Don’t be surprised when it shows signs of excessive wear or comes apart on you.
It’s been found that the powdered tungsten buffers actually have more bolt bounce, not less.
You won’t be able to get rid of the recoil, but you make it more manageable. In my experience, the Battlecomp does soften recoil
Go through all the stickies of this forum and the General AR forum, follow the links and do a lot of reading. You’ll find them a big help and learning will occur. Start with this one https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?7376-quot-Oh-No!-I-bought-a-BM-RRA-Stag-before-I-knew-better!-quot
I tried a Spikes T-2 on an SBR a couple of years ago. I found that an H2 worked better. I then tried the T-2 on my next rifle, I found that an H buffer worked better. I think the powdered tungsten line is probably snake oil.
One thing to consider is a adjustable gas block. You mentioned in your op that you wanted a low profile gas block. Since you are more then likely over gassed and changing out the fsb I would strongly consider that. http://www.blackrivertactical.com/concrete5/micropin-gas-block/#!/~/product/category=6464008&id=21597560 I would also pick up a H/H2 buffer and start from there.
Probably good to do some heavy research before spending money on a BC. I’d replace the crap polymer lower before spending over 100$ on a muzzle device.
Second, you have a pinned FSB. Just shave it. Best thing you can do rather than switch to a unpinned GB.
Third, stop worrying about recoil until you really figure out all the in’s and outs of your gun, and the AR in general. You will be spending a bunch of time and money on something without really knowing what or why.
In the end, I’d focus on replacing the polymer lower before you spend a penny on anything else. Once that is done, then move onto other things after much reading on here. There are a few things I’d personally replace on the upper way before swapping hanguards, rails etc. Like putting a properly made BCG such as a DD, BCM, Noveske etc in there. From there once you have a 7075 lower, properly stake the castle nut etc. Or you could just throw money at it until your happy, which you never will be (tis the reason on here have numerous ar’s lol).
Ps, no need to run spikes buffers or any crap like that. Normal H/H2/H3 buffers work just fine. Damn tungsten power snake oil. You might as well just use a hydraulic buffer or one of those Silent JP kits if you are going as retarded as Spikes buffers to begin with.
Check this out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=575Q0O41u5s
The ST-T2 is a well made product, but the intended function just isn’t there. I’m sure Tom would hope this video would just go away.
So per this video a heavier bolt carrier will cycle smoother ??
A full-auto carrier has a little more mass and is the way to go. A heavier reciprocating mass will give the feeling of a smoother cycle, but there is a point where reliability could potentially suffer, especially with underpowered ammo. The full/semi carrier weight difference won’t be as significant as a buffer swap. I think the point is, if given a choice between full or semi carrier, the full is preferred (and is 100% legal).
Really the better option between changing a buffer and a spring or a bolt carrier the bolt carrier is the better option