Hey guys
Just got my Uniform check from work. Im looking at adding a Halagan to my kit. I have been looking around at the Blackhawk stuff and cannot decide which would be the best model for patrol type work
Im guessing something in the 30-36 inch range would be the best option
Ill also be adding a sledge to the trunk.
Any opinions welcome and any places to shop also welcome
Mods if this is the wrong forum please move… i guess its kinda gear
THANKs
I’m actually looking to do the same thing. I have access to a short blackhawk hallagan tool thats a nice size for patrol (around the 32" i think). For the last year or so I’ve carried an old backpack with a demolition hammer, bolt cutters and a crowbar in my truck and it’s come in handy several times but I’d like to dump the crow bar in favor of the hallagan. Depending on what you want to spend blackhawk makes a breacher’s pack with the hally, sledge and bolt cutters. Generally I’m not a fan of blackhawk stuff at all but their breaching equipment has never let us down.
As far as where to buy: if you can find it locally (even pay a bit more) you will not have to pay the high shipping cost on something that heavy.
Ask your neighborhood chapter of America’s Heroes…err…Fire Department.
They might have a halligan that they’re willing to lend/sell/give you, or they can tell you where they buy theirs. If their purchasing guys are putting in an order, maybe they can add you in on it, and maybe get the good guy/bulk order discount.
This is the one that my group has…
http://www.blackhawk.com/product/Special-Operations-Hallagan-Tool,660,106.htm
Works well.
Hope this helps.
JC
Here’s some thoughts:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=56847
Also there’s quite a few to choose from< [b]here[/b] >too!
Hope you find what you’re looking for!
A few years ago we bought a halligan and sledge for each cruiser. The sledge has a bracket on the top where the halligan nests. We also bought a strap to hold them together they call it an iorns set. I did not get the axe but that is typically how they come. We only have two cars. We bought from a local fire fighter who sells as a second job. We bought the standard/origional halligan. If I did it again I would look at the Blackhawk tool set that comes with a sling to hook the sledge and halligan together. This set does not always have the point. Just the Adz something to consider in case you fall. Check out some of the YouTube videos out there and decide what you want/need. It is not the same as hands on but watching the videos show how well they work.
We went with the origional Pro Bars it is what our FD carries and what NYFD they know a hell of a lot more about them than I do. The one piece design made sense to me.
From my YouTube training 
I learned about breaking a padlock. I did it last summer for a vendor at a carnival. He locked his trailer hitch and lost the key. The ponted end of the Halligan went Into the u part of the lock and one solid smack from the sledge and the lock came apart easily. It was impressive.
http://ironsandladders.com/2009/12/28/halligan-bars-they-are-not-the-same/
This is exactly what we carry:
Without a doubt 100% order from firehooks unlimited. It is a one piece design and not that three piece pinned junk that blackhawk, paratech and other companies try to pass off as a halligan. I have beat on halligans for 15 years as a career fireman. Trust me on this one.
Good to hear. I was sold when our FD did it is what they use. They’re squared away and are always training.
As a professional hose dragger and someone who teaches forcible entry to up and coming hose draggers in the accademy, I can say with all confidence go with the Pro-Bar. Years back I purchased my own personal Pro-Bar and if I’m not on the nozzle stretching a line it is always in my hand. Paratech also makes a nice halligan (the SPF Hooligan I think they call it) but they can be a little tough to find. The one recomendation I would make is DON’T get a “pinned” or collapsable bar if possible, make sure it is a one piece forging. The problem we have found with the “pinned/3 piece” or collapsable bars is the forks are way too fat to get properly placed in a door jamb and the Adz end usually doesn’t have the propper curve. I know FD forcible entry is differenty than LE/MIL forcible entry but hey it’s all about gettig through the door right. I hope this helps. Also if any of you are interested there are some interesting modifications to improve upon the original design that can be found at www.vententersearch.com and typing in “Halligan Modifications” in their search box.
Mike
As others have said, talk to a few fire fighters.
In general you want a drop forged tool or a tool machined from bar stock. Avoid the Blackhawk tools. I have seen at least 6 break over the years. They seem to be cast.
My all Volunteer Department uses the standard Halligan, however the Township just north of us has started using the 30 inch Stanley 55-122 Fubar, Forcible Entry Tool. I have played with it a little and like it. I am going to purchase one for my POV. I figure a 30 inch Stanley Fubar and a 4# one handed sledge will get most folks where ever they need to go in an emergency.
I would go with the traditional style halligan that comes with a horn and spade. I would opt for a longer model for two reasons. The first is that if you are using a sledge hammer to seat the halligan you are going to want your hands as far away as possible. The second reason is that you can get a good pry on stout wrought iron. If I were offering a second piece of advice it would be to go with a small ram as opposed to a sledge hammer. The reason is that once you get through the wrought iron the guy on the ram can wind back up and get you through the interior door and the ram requires less wind up room in a confined space.
If you want one for under $35.00 stay tuned for a DIY from ITS Tactical. We will cover how to mod the Fatmax (not that its that hard to figure out).
If you have the money then I would get a real deal, if you want something small and cheap stay tuned.
Like anything we do purchasing a tool is fine but you need to spend some time learning how to use it, it doesn’t matter if it is a new carbine or a forcible entry tool like a halligan.
As numerous guys have already stated go with a one piece forged design, with the pinned models you are placing a ton of force on a small pin and I have seen them fail.
If you carry a halligan you need to carry a striking implement as well, a sledge hammer is a great option but depending on your needs a flat-head axe can be more versatile. Another option to consider is a rock hammer or dead-blow hammer that can be used one handed. Some non-fire agencies are issuing these as a striking implement and while I was skeptical at first they do impart the required force to the halligan and can be easier for guys to use when they dont do this very often.
Remember a halligan in most all applications is a two-piece, two-person implement and it requires the two operators to have at least a basic idea of whats going on to be used safely and effectively. Most entry ways are somewhat confined once you start trying to get two guys and two tools in place, and you are handing your backup officer or partner a 30" long piece of wood with a 6-20lb. steel weight on the end of it and asking him/her to bang it into a 2"x2" piece of steel next to your hand while he is thinking of the tactical problems he is likely to encounter upon forcing the door. At the very least it may take an inexperienced user a few extra strikes to properly set the halligan, too shallow and you don’t generate the requisite mechanical advantage, too deep and the angle is wrong and the tool might get stuck. Worst case your hyped up partner who hasn’t really swung a sledgehammer since helping his old man renovate their master-bath the summer he graduated high school misjudges his swing and now your primary gun hand doesn’t work with an entire structure to clear. Only you can decide if your partner is qualified to swing a sledgehammer at you, if it concerns you maybe a shorter more controllable option would be one of the short handled rock hammers or dead-blow hammers.
That scenario might seem slightly melodramatic but it bears thought. Stop by the local fire station (one of them is their “training station” and is likely to have a forcible entry training prop) get them to go over the tool and its proper use with you, or at the very least get on youtube (just remember you can learn as much about forcible entry on youtube as you can about shooting and everyones content is the same quality as a video by Magpul Dynamics or LAV right?) although little of what you will find will be law enforcement focused.
There are 4 basic operating surfaces of the Halligan and each has its own use and specific application. Learn these, once you have learned those you will need to learn some very basic building construction to understand the proper use. At its most basic level you will have two evolutions that you need to know as a law enforcement officer, anything more and you should probably cover the firefighters as they force the door for you.
Inward-Swinging Residential Door using the Fork
Inward-Swinging Residential Door using the Adze/Pike end striking surface as an improvised battering ram
The benefit of Option #1 is it is somewhat more likely to allow for re-securing the door post-entry, and that it is more likely to work 100% of the time.
Option #2 only requires one tool and person, can be slightly faster if you don’t have a fairly well trained entry team, is adequate for many residential doors including apartments with wooden frames surround a metal door, usually only takes 1-3 strikes, and requires the least amount of training.
Just some thoughts. I am partial to the 30" Pro-Bar, I find that I like the shape and size of its surfaces the best especially with some minor modifications. That being said like anything I also tend prefer higher end weapons which doesn’t mean that other weapons are not useable. If this is something you might use once a year you might save some money and get the cheapest one you can.
Another thought, your agency may issue one already but a good set of big bolt cutters can be worth their weight in gold.
NinjaMedic
What do you do to modify the probar?
The main thing is I file a more squared off surface onto the back of the fork to make striking the fork easier in confined areas. Ill try and find a picture tonight.
http://www.firehouseinnovations.com/tips.html
Check these videos for some quick tips . One of the better ones is using the halligan to gain entry by yourself. The tool pictured is the pro bar from fire hooks unlimited. I work as a career fireman in NYC and it’s all we use. It will not fail. Some modifications are squaring the shoulders off near the fork end where they come normally rounded it creates a striking surface for a tight hallway . Also we grind down the tips of the fork a bit so they will fit easier into a tight door jamb. It’s amazing how easy you can get into some heavily fortified doors with that tool a wooden wedge and a 10 lb sledge
Hope this helps
I’m going to second the Pro Bar. After having multiple blackhawk abominations fail me I ordered a Pro Bar from All Hands Fire. It got me through the Surge breaking doors and gates nearly everyday. It’s an expensive piece of kit, but I have never looked back.