I have a SR556 from Ruger. I really like the gun. Anyway, it’s dirty under the forend. I took my air compressor to it but there is still gunk up there. I called Ruger to ask what they recommended. They actually said to send it in so they could clean it. Then they offered to pay for next day air shipping to and from their shop in NH.
I asked what am I supposed to do every time I go hunting in bad weather and it gets nasty under there. They said to send it in for a cleaning every time. I said that’s inconvenient. They said not to worry about the grime. I said that grime and dirt attract moisture and would eventually cause rusting, and besides, I keep my weapons clean. They said they would evaluate replacing any parts that rust due to inability to clean under the forend.
Does this make sense to anyone? They’d rather pay for the shipping, time and labor to clean it themselves than to let end users remove the forend. Or, if they don’t clean it, they’d rather do warranty work on it caused by the inability to clean it thoroughly.
Absolutely ridiculous.
Sorry, had to rant about that a bit. The non-removable forend has got to be the worst ideas on the market right now.
Speaking of which, anyone here know if it is possible to have a gunsmith replace the rollpins holding the forend on with some other type of pin or screw to allow easy removal?
Pretty easy fix here man…a competent smith could easily remove and clean every time you got honked off at the gunk. Or this is what I would do. Get a free float rail like Daniel Defense, Spikes, Wilson Combat, or any other top notch manufacturer that has a barrel nut that allows for easy bolt on/off removal.
I have a Wilson Combat TRIM rail and a Spikes Tactical BAR rail and both attach to the barrel nut with torx screws that you just put a little blue loctite on and don’t torque it more that 65-80 in-lbs so you can remove it fairly easily.
Keep the Ruger rail in case it ever needs to go back for service other than gunk removal.
The only thing you’ll have to make sure of is clearance with your piston’s gas block system. The Spikes BAR has a fairly large ID that can accommodate cans and gas piston systems…that’s one direction I’d research if I was you.
I don’t think that would work. The rail and barrel nut are proprietary to Ruger’s piston system. From looking at it and at a diagram of how all the parts fit, the transfer rod is supported by bushings installed in the forend and barrel nut. As much as I’d love a better forend, I don’t think it’s possible. I’d be happy with just being able to remove it for maintenance and repair. Ruger’s CS is awesome, but I’d rather be able to work on it myself rather than have to send it in.
While I may not have the answer to your question I cannot help but chuckle a bit given the whole “pistons are better because they run cleaner” argument that some people harp on. Have you tried using a pressure washer on it? I’d disassemble it and spray it all down that way.
Otherwise, you could always sell the complete upper and use the cash towards a BCM upper. That way you would not have the burden of a piston system and not have to worry about stupid little things like this, or attempting to replace impossible proprietary parts.
The thing is, what if some day you cannot have them service it every time you need it cleaned, though? Given the political climate and the direction this country is going, I would not take such a thing for granted.
On the other hand… it sounds like Ruger is at least trying to make you happy no matter what their expense, which should be commended.
I may have told you wrong, not fully knowing how the rifles piston system is set up. Let me do some research and see if I can find something for ya buddy.
Sorry for the confusion. I should have researched before answering…my apologies
It’s an inheritance so even if any uppers were available, which as far as I can tell they are not, I wouldn’t be willing to sell or trade it.
Ruger’s CS is top notch, that’s for sure. It’s an early serial so it still had the squared off BC and the buffer tube was showing some wear. I called them and they had me send it in next day air, on their dime, and polished the crown and chamber, rounded the back of the BC and polish that, replaced the buffer tube and checked accuracy. They claim to have gotten a 3/8" group with it. They didn’t state the distance, I’m guessing 50m. That would be consistent with my experience shooting it.
I just don’t want to have to send it in for routine work. Like you said, some day I might not be able to send it in for service, then what?
My apologies I shouldn’t have posted. I don’t think as others have stated that there are other rails that will work. It’s a pinned rail specifically designed for that rifle, due to the piston system. The barrel is phosphated and shouldn’t rust. As someone else mentioned just hose it down with Brake Cleaner, let it dry…and be done with it. If it doesn’t affect accuracy, or reliability I wouldn’t worry about it. So long as it goes bang just keep shooting it. Since it’s a hand-me-down, and you won’t get rid of it. Just take advantage of Ruger’s CS.
Maybe get another upper (non-piston) so you can still shoot/hunt when it in for service.
Yep exactly what I’m thinking. I’m waiting for good uppers to be available again and also full rifles as well. Just a matter of demand backing down a bit or production going up.
Mostly I was just ranting at what I think is a ridiculous design, even though functionally their piston is great.
If it’s the same as the SR-556E I found diagrams for, the handguard is removable–two screws, the flash hider, and the gas block/piston assy are all that stand in your way.
Remove the FH, remove the gas block, remove the two screws from the bottom of the rail near the receiver, and the whole thing pulls off.
As far as I know the 556FB and the 556E both use rollpins, unless Ruger has changed something recently. The 556CLA apparently has screws holding the handguard on, but I haven’t seen anything about removing it nor have I seen one in person. My FB has rollpins. I’d be very interested in knowing if those pins could be replaced with screws without affect the performance and reliability of the rifle.
You would have to remove the rollpins, 2 or 3 of them, I can’t remember, in order to remove the handguard from mine.
Any spray in oil either of you would recommend? I have had a few different kinds, but didn’t really like them too much. They didnt seem to really last too long, and one basically evaporated.
I don’t get it. Why don’t you just buy a set of roll pin punches and take the rail off yourself?
As for replacing the roll pins permanently, I’ve never handled a Ruger AR, but the puns could potentially be replaced with properly sized solid pins, or the holes could possibly be tapped/threaded to then accept screws perhaps?? Again, this is all conjecture, as I’ve not handled a Ruger personally. Would have to see one up close to be sure. I’m betting an easy solution is indeed possible though.
Have you tried using a pressure washer on it? I’d disassemble it and spray it all down that way.
