I’ve about decided to invest in one really good .357 revolver for the house. It’s not something I’d carry; it’s just for the bedroom drawer.
As my father got older and eventually passed away, he found that he could no longer cycle the slide on a semi-auto in order to chamber a round (due to lack of hand strength), but he could shoot a single action trigger on a wheel gun just fine.
So I’m planning to buy a revolver for my old age. I’m only around 50 now, but with an almost constant rollercoaster ride of gun and ammo restriction proposals and buying panics, I’d kind of like to get one and plenty of ammo for it now before the next panic.
I’ve read many reviews over the years concerning the guns I listed. I’d love to hear some more recent input.
(Like, you wouldn’t buy a 686 because none come without the lock if that’s the case, for example).
Are there any recent trends like one or the other models just don’t have the quality of the old school ones?
I’m willing to seek out one made years ago if I have to.
If you have any suggestions for a .357 wheel gun I haven’t mentioned, feel free to chime in and tell us why you prefer that particular one.
(Pics would be nice of whatever your preference is, too. There’s just something about a pic of an old wheel gun with black around the front of the chambers that…well…gives me wood.)
I don’t own any of the revolvers you mentioned, but I do have a Ruger Super Redhawk in .44 mag. With that, I can say that you won’t be disappointed with a Ruger. I myself am looking to buy a GP100. I handled one alongside the S&W, and the Ruger just got my hand better. I have small hands though. I shot a S&W 686, and it was nice but the GP100 fit my hand a lot more comfortably. Rugers are built like tanks too
You captured a very good point. If you have smaller hands, the GP100 may be an excellent fit for you. I’d love to snag one of those Wiley Clapp TALO guns, if I were in the market for a GP100. They are about 800 bucks, though - be forewarned.
Doc Glockster - how big are your paws? Also, do you have arthritis in your hands? I do, and that also makes the recoil of a hot .357 a challenge. One of those JM 625’s might actually be a bit easier on the hands. I shot one a few years ago, and really enjoyed it.
Us old geezers have to help each other out, I hope you find what you are looking for.
I have somewhat stubby fingers, but I am not “ham-handed” or anything. As for arthritis, no, but I do have carpal tunnel. I usually have no trouble firing standard pressure .357. The beauty of three-fifty-seven is that you can shoot thirty-eight special.
My beef against the GP100 is the abbreviated grip frame. I may opt to locate a minty Security Six or Service Six. I used to love my S&W 686.
Us old geezers have to help each other out, I hope you find what you are looking for.
I happen to have owned all three on your list, along with a 19 and a 66. My hands down favorite to shoot is the 686. For carry, obviously the 66 gets the nod.
Personally a fan of the Ruger GP100, my father has one and they are built tough. That said, Smith 686s can be had with 7 shot cylinders, the 686 Plus is the model designation I do believe. However, if six rounds of .357 are enough for you, I would seriously look around your local gun stores and see if you can’t find a see on a used revolver. Have seen older Smith and Colts in .357 pop up for very good prices used from time to time, and while they may not be as quick and flashy, they can be a bit cheaper, and in my experience the triggers on them do tend to be smoother and at least to me lighter than most of the newer offerings/ And no I am not throwing it out there because the guns are as old as you geezers Picked up a Colt Police Positive earlier this year for $280 out the door, only .38, but its good shooter and I enjoy it.
If you put an rmr on your auto, couldn’t you rack the slide on the edge of the night table or with the side of your arm? I’m in my 60s and don’t have any plans on switching to revolver from auto for home defense.
I’ve owned all three and only the GP100 remains. I believe it is a more durable revolver and better all around choice. I would not get the new MIM version introduced in the last couple of years. The model 27 was the most refined, but I’ve read that on the N frames if you get the cylinder moving too quickly, you can wear the cylinder stops. The 686 was nice enough, but the side plate vs solid frame of the Ruger reduces durability.
I’m not sure I would rule that out 100%. Modern MIM is supposedly a lot better and more durable than in the past. Plus, Ruger has used investment cast parts for years so they could very well have it perfected by now.
I’d have to see some data before I make up my mind about this.
I’ve heard this repeatedly. Yet I’ve never heard of a single frame breaking due to the alleged “weakness” of the sideplate setup.
I have shot a K Frame enough to require setting the barrel back. I haven’t done the same with an L Frame and can only imagine how many full power loads would be required to do it.
I don’t own any of the models you mentioned but I have owned many revolvers. My favorite, even when compared to some nice autos, is a S&W M13 3" HB. A fixed sight K frame. Sights perfectly regulated for 158gr bullets and a round butt makes it easy to carry. I did handle a Ruger Wily Clapp 3" GP 100 which was very nice, expensive and great sights.
I would opt for the 686 myself, and probably look for a minty pre-lock if I could. I have never had a problem with a lock, but on my J frames the older, pre-lock steel frames just feel smoother. For the home I would prefer a 3 or 4 inch barrel. I personally have been keeping an eye out for a good condition 3" CS-1 if I can find one at a fair price.
I did have a chance to put a few rounds through a friend’s Security Six a while back, and that was pretty smooth as well. I just prefer the feel and aesthetics of the Smith revolvers.
I have a 4" SS GP100 with the factory adjustable sights. I put packmayr compact grips on for more control with my small hands. Carries well in a Galco Fletch holster. It’s a great shooter, even with hot loads. I no longer carry it concealed because the weight/ size/ round count/ trigger reset are not as good as my G22 or G27.
I have an old Stainless GP100 3". If you are looking for a durable pistol the GP100 is that. I’m very happy with mine. It is not the smoothest revolver (my 60’s era Python takes that prize), but it works very well and I really like the grip. I have fairly large hands and it works fine for me, but it seems to work ok for most folks who shoot it. I think the design is inherently STOUT and durable which always makes me feel confident it will go bang when I need it to. I like the .357/.38 capability as well.
I am still able to manage a semi-auto easily enough, but I will NEVER get rid of my GP100!
I don’t like the newer revolvers that use MIM, I prefer the forged pieces. I see the older GP100s out there for sale sometimes. Funny thing, in the last couple 3 years I’ve seen more chatter about the GP100 (positive) than I saw before. So I think people are noticing it more which made the price go up IMHO.
I only have limited experience with the S&Ws, and they make a very good revolver too.
My personal experience with a GP-100 equates to about 12k rounds. For a while I was using it to shoot at local steel plate matches so it has been used pretty hard including on-the-clock reloads.
One thing I noticed versus the Smith is even running the gun hard, the Ruger cylinder notches do not peen much at all, where the Smith will repeatedly turn up a burr on the trailing edge of the slots.
Ruger was putting a lot of their casting experience to work in making the gun even ten years ago. Not MIM, but still cast parts that are subsequently machined. I think its held up pretty well. The trigger in the GP is not what you can get out of a Smith but it isn’t bad either.
Picked up a Colt Police Positive earlier this year for $280 out the door, only .38, but its good shooter and I enjoy it.
