Need a torque wrench/driver for scope mount screws, trigger guard and action screws, etc. I don’t need top-of-the-line, but do want something of good quality.
Would also like one for flash hiders, etc. I’m assuming that would need to be a different kind. Would like suggestions on that, as well.
Anyone have some suggestions?
The Wheeler Engineering Fat Wrench is consistent enough for me up to 65 inch pounds. If you want better then the only other one I’ve had experience with is Seekonk, but you’re going to spend a lot more and most of their models are preset for one torque value only. For no more than it gets used the Wheeler was a no brainer though and better than the Autozone crap.
For one or two flash hiders, or the occasional barrel, a defecting beam type has worked for me. No sense in getting a super high dollar wrench that needs cared for and calibrated for something that has a 50 lb spread. Ditto for the occasional flash hider install.
How often do you plan to use it? The more it will get used the more likely I’d be to step up to the good stuff.
Well I don’t actually own it, but this is what I am going to buy here pretty soon:
http://www.borkatools.com/pages/atd12/mtsd.html
I chose it based on recommendations over on Sniper’s Hide. Seems like a good value, simple and rugged. Especially since I was ready to drop $185 on a Seekonk at Brownells that comes with no accessories at all.
As far as the flash hiders, I second the recommendation for the beam style torque wrench. They’re relatively cheap and good for most purposes, as long as you can see the scale. I’d say get one with a 5-90 foot pound range, or thereabouts. I don’t know what you would do that would take more than 90 foot pounds on a gun, unless you really like your barrels snug.
Anyway I don’t have a particular recommendation for a brand or model of budget, but quality beam torque wrench. If you want to spend $100-125, get a Precision Instruments split beam. If you want to spend $250-300, get a Warren & Brown deflecting beam model. Other than that, IDK these days, everything has changed in the tool market since I was last paying attention it seems.
You’re better off not considering micrometer/mechanical click style torque wrenches for your needs, FYI. I have one for automotive and motorcycle work, but I can’t see needing it for basic gun assembly at home. They’re more delicate, you have to store them unloaded, you can knock them out of calibration by dropping them a few times, they need to be recalibrated on a regular basis (every 1-2 years for the hobbyist IMO)… meh. I mostly use mine when I’m working on some awkward position and wouldn’t be able to see a beam scale dead on.
The borka is a good backup to keep in your pack… but I would NEVER run it for benchtop use.
The FAT wrench is a way better outfit. Yet it rarely gets used either, since I have every Seekonk T-handle torque wrench that I need.
I prefer the Weaver to the Wheeler.
I have the Weaver, which I have only used a few times for scope mounting, and it seems to work well.
It looks like the Wheeler gets slightly better reviews at Optics Planet, and it costs a little less:
http://www.opticsplanet.com/s/Weaver+Gunsmithing+Torque+Wrench+849728+Revers/
That’s interesting, I woke up this morning with the intention of starting almost the same thread. I have a pretty extensive tool collection and somewhat extensive machine shop in my house but for some reason, I’ve never owned a torque wrench. I always tighten things until they “feel right” and go from there. I guess I’ve had good luck because I’ve only had a couple of mishaps (one being my recent over-MOACKing of two BCGs).
So I was wondering - I saw a coupon in a Harbor Freight flyer for a $10 torque wrench and was wondering it you guys thought it would be adequate for the few times I would be using it - I’m not an armorer and would only be using it to work on ARs occasionally. I just don’t think I want to spend $60-200 on something I would rarely use. Thoughts?
The Wheeler sometimes catches a bad rap, but I’m not sure why. It’s worked perfectly so far, but I’ve only been using it for maybe 6 months now so take it for what it’s worth. Just make sure you take the load off the internal spring by resetting it to 0 inch-pounds before putting it away for storage. If you leave it cranked up for a long time you’re going to have accuracy and repeatability issues.
I’m sure there are better ones out there, but I’m not sure they’re worth the price over the FAT unless you’re using it every day.
I have a Borka, and I suits my needs just fine.
I’m sure a more dedicated TQ wrench would be better for bench top use, but I’m not at the level yet where slight variances in torque value will be seen in my groups.
Not very often. I would use it for the action screws on some personal bolt action rifles, including some Rem 700P’s. I would also use it on scope mounts and can see using it occasionally for building an AR or replacing a FH or barrel. It wouldn’t even get monthly use - maybe a few times a year.
It would all be work on personal items and not in a commercial setting, so it wouldn’t be getting daily use. I think I’ll need two torque wrenches. One for screws/bolts and one for things like the FHs and barrels.
I’m happy with the borka kit as well.
I had the wheeler kit (FAT wrench, lapping tools, level, level, level) and stupidly sold it. Just ordered it again. The FAT wrench is great and has my vote.
I’ve use the Wheeler’s FAT wrench on several scope projects, receiver screws, etc. It did everything I needed it to do without issue.
I’ve used both the Borka and the Wheeler for mounting scopes and tightening action screws etc. If I had to pick one I’d keep the Borka. The Wheeler is serviceable but inexpensively made. I have my doubts that it will keep its precision over time and not loosen up or wear out. I’m also uncomfortable with the way it adjusts and the repeatability of the adjustments. How do I know the torque value isn’t drifting? With the Borka you use the present positions machined into a stainless steel bar. There’s no way for those to drift and the spring in the Borka seems less likely to wear out. It’s just such a simple tool I don’t see much that can go out of whack. Has anyone actually tested a Wheeler or Borka over time to determine if either one drifts compared to a calibrated torque wrench?
In order for me to be motivated to test that… it would have to matter.
… and it doesn’t.
I can repeat zero using nothing but my fingers and a screw driver. So if it drifts, it won’t drift far enough from the last time you used it for it to matter.