Is it possible to cut a 16" barrel down to 14.5" and pinning/welding a flash suppressor, or am I better off starting over with a new 14.5" barrel/upper?
have done it before with no issues
Definitely possible, but possibly a hassle.
Once you add all the shipping, disassembly, chopping, re-profiling (?), re-crowning, pinning, etc, it’ll cost you some coin, so I’d say you’re better off just starting with a new 14.5" YMMV.
Sure is, I had mine cut from 16in. to 14.7in. not long ago.
the chop only costs $75, which includes crown and finish, and the pin/weld/muzzle device you’ll need to pay for whether you chop or buy a 14.5. if you already have a barrel that you don’t currently have a use for, chopping it is definitely an option. i just had ADCO chop a 14.5 to a 10.5, for instance… the 14.5 was wasn’t immediately useful to me, and i wanted a 10, so it made perfect sense.
Does cutting the barrel down to 14.5" and pinning a flash suppressor decrease the resale value over a factory 16" barrel w/o a pinned flash suppressor?
Would having a gunsmith cut the barrel decrease the accuracy as opposed to having a factory 14.5" barrel?
Has anyone regretted cutting a barrel and pinning a flash suppressor? I would like the barrel 1.5" shorter…I’m just wondering if it’s worth the hassle.
i would say no, but thats going to be up to the people who are considering buying your barrel. guns and gun parts’ market value fluctuate wildly, there’s no a whole lot of consistency to begin with to gage from. i’ve never chopped specifically with the intent to sell, but i’ve permed 14’s with the intent to make money, and have.
i had the same thing done to my RRA tactical CAR back in October. with the FH pinned, m4 profile added, and barrel shaved under handguards. all for around 200$, shipping included. ADCO is the jam!!! seriously great people, great service. turn around service is super fast too! no regrets here.
I did it the other way…got rid of my 14.5 w/pinned FH and went with 16".
I’m doing this with all of my uppers. I’m done with pinned flash hiders.
if you start out with a 16 inch barrel carbine length front stock, and you cut it down to a 12 and half inch barrel, do u have to replace anything? gas tube, front hand guard, etc???
yeah, too much of a headache and not worth the tax stamp.
What made you decide to go back to a 16" w/o the pinned flash hider?
I understand the reasoning behind not bothering with a SBR for a 14.5" barrel. I also understand that if you are going to get a SBR you might as well go with a 10 - 12" barrel, however that length is not ideal for a 5.56 unless you were using it for CQ. Although a 10-12" 6.8 SPC gas-piston SBR would be worthwhile.
A 14.5" upper with a pinned/welded 1.5" flash hider would give you the shortest possible length without having to get a tax stamp. Whereas a 16" barrel and a 1.5" flash hider you are up to 17.5". That 1.5" isn’t a lot but it’s still noticeable.
I was planning on pinning/welding a Surefire or AAC suppressor adaptor, and once it’s on I don’t see why I would need to change it. If it was necessary, wouldn’t a gunsmith be able to change a pinned/welded adaptor anyways?
If you ever decide to replace your rail or gas block/sight it’s too much trouble to get a pinned FH off.
I didn’t think about that, although I can’t imagine having to change the gas block.
I was thinking about doing it to a Noveske Light Recce Switchblock upper with a AAC M4-2000 flash hider/adaptor.
I’m apprehensive about chopping and welding a Noveske barrel. I feel like I would have to see a priest for confession after…
I run Lite rails almost exclusively, but I really wanted to try the various Viking Tactics rails. When I originally built my pinned uppers, I decided to stick with Lite rails so even though the barrel was pinned, I could change the rails around if I wanted. The one thing I couldn’t do was try out other systems. Now I’m not married to the idea of only running Lite rails, especially considering how light some of the new offerings by Troy etc are.
I have ALWAYS advised people that if they had even the slightest notion of wanting to mix things up with their configurations either pony up for different uppers or avoid the pinned flash hiders. I have access to a well stocked machine shop and can probably re-pin/weld my flash hiders but the hassle of machining them off whenever I want to change something is more than I want to put up with.
For me, there is less than 1.25" difference (or as little as 1/2" depending on what stock you run) between my 16" uppers and the pinned ones. That difference really doesn’t matter for my use and if I stay in Washington state, I’ll never get to go shorter than 16" (I’m done with pistol ARs too, no thanks). With the wealth of profile choices in 16" barrels, I’ve decided that my experiment with the shortest legal barrel is done. I’m ready to move on. If I ever leave Washington, I’m going straight for a proper SBR and skipping the 14.5" carbines.
Oh yeah, for those of you planning on pinning a mount to your barrel, check with the manufacturer about warranty issues, I’ve heard Surefire won’t warranty welded mounts.
When you cut the 16 to 14.5 does that degrade accuracy of the bore?
Can a chrome lined barrel be easily crowned after cutting? It just seems like chrome would be difficult to crown:confused:
Is the Middie Gas Port on a 16 and 14.5 different sizes?
Would cutting from 16 to 14.5 change the necessary buffer weight?
shouldn’t, so long as it’s properly done and crowned.
sure, so long as the shop knows their shit. the chrome is bonded to the metal, so there’s no risk of flaking or peeling or anything like that. i’ve had chrome-lined barrels cut- always comes out good.
not sure… still collecting info on middy configs and their appropriate port sizes. i know for a fact that mid barrels, be they 16 or 14.5, will run with an .081 port. whether or not that’s optimal, for either, is questionable.
yes and no… depends on what you mean by “necessary.” both will run on carbine buffers, but both may run better with heavier. with either, i’d personally stick with an H, for reliability stake. one or both might seem to run fine with an H2, but it’d suck to find out that an H2 and dirty weapon situation makes it not run anymore, in the middle of slaying zombies… for instance.
Yes it does.
BKB000 Thanks! I was afraid of chipping and flaking as I thought the chrome might be brittle.