I can’t believe people suggest squeezing. Is that actually taught somewhere? Seems a good way to damage mag bodies.
A 1/8" punch pushed up in through the floor plate and a firm swipe and the plate is off. It takes a little practice to get the right amount of punch to stick in the plate. But once you get the hang of it, it’s stupid easy.
The most recent armorer’s manual recommends using the armorer’s punch to slide the base off. However, it says that the squeezing method might still help on older magazines.
I can’t imagine putting enough force on the sides of the magazine to deform them enough to cause damage- with my bare hands.
Indeed. But I can remember in the old days, dudes over on ARF would be like… “get some vice grips and…” :rolleyes:
Or a dremel…
I used vise grips, and applied just enough pressure to deflect the tabs ~1/64th of an inch, or less, to clear the baseplate. There is such a thing as proper use of a tool, without crushing the holy hell out of something.
The alternative of just ripping the baseplate with the punch inserted seemed far more “dremel fluting job” then using a tool to deflect the tabs a minuscule fraction of an inch.
Here’s what you quoted me as saying markm
Wow, thanks! Maybe you should have read the rest of my post that you quoted::rolleyes:
It’s a common misconception that the mag bases are difficult to remove and that the base of the magazine needs to be “squeezed” to allow the base pad to slide of the retaining tabs. The magazine bottom should not be squeezed together to remove the pads as this could start to deform the inner liner. Using a Glock tool from Glock (super hard rod, tennifer treated), the base removal take 1 second with little to no pressure required. Removing the tabs from the base of the magazine to ease in the base pad removal defeats the dual redundancy provided by the Glock design for base pad security.
One other thing, I don’t think the Glock tool in the hole method works with all Glock magazines. For example, I don’t think it works with 10 round Glock 17 mags. I haven’t played with them in a while, but I think that’s the way it is.
Joe Mamma
The Glock Tool works fine with 10 round versions. Use the tool to depress the floorplate enough to clear the mag base and pull forward with the tool as demonstrated in the Glock Armorers Manual. I have a 10 round mag here and it works fine.
Yeah. I wasn’t really replying DIRECTLY to you… I was just throwing the technique I use from seeing Glockmeister take them apart.
Sorry if you were emotionally destroyed by my reply. 
I start by sticking a punch into the hole in the base plate and leaving it there. Then I’ve got a couple sets of mini-screwdrivers and I take the smallest two straight edge ones and gently wedge them (perpendicular to the mag body and parallel to the baseplate) between the magazine body and baseplate until they’re stuck there (from friction) and have slightly widened the baseplate where it contacts the “ears”. Grab onto the punch and slide te baseplate off.