Gemtech Trek question

Has anyone who has owned one of these cans had any troubles with the mounting coming loose. I’m considering buying one and would like feedback on how they have worked out for those who have owned them. I know Gemtech makes great products as I have friends with the Halo cans and I thought maybe the trek would be right for me since I just want to leave it on my 10.5 sbr.
Thanks

Nord-Lock 1/2" SS lock washer.
I’ve use these to secure my AAC Ranger 2 to a 10.5" LMT upper and a Gemtech Trek to a 14.5" BCM upper with zero alignment problems and zero problems with the cans loosening even after multiple mag dumps and heat/cool cycles.

That sounds fair enough.
Yeah I’m thinking this wouldn’t be that bad of an idea for me. I’m currently running an LMT 10.5 with a KX3 on it. I researched the weight difference between the can and the KX3 and came to the conclusion I’m only adding 10.1 ounces to my gun from before and 2.32 inches in length. Not a bad trade off. I don’t want the can for anything else since I don’t have a dedicated spr that would need one, but if I did I think I would just want to buy another can. If I had the money for the T model it would only add a whopping 3 ounce to my current configuration. Wow I wish I had that much money.

Ok here’s another question, what’s the difference between a trek and a M4-02?

Trek is a thread on can, the M42K attaches to a flash hider or muzzle brake mount.

The Gemtech M4-02 is a thread on can as well.

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=106&t=53223

There isn’t much I could find comparing the two. I have an AAC Ranger 2 and have compared it to the M4-02 and the AAC has a “deeper” sound to it. People are saying the new Trek is quieter than the M4-02, but I can’t tell you if that’s true.

Hopefully someone here has more experience with these cans and can help you out.

Thread mounted silencers will generally come loose on a semi auto, has nothing to do with design or quality.

I’d recommend you save up to a QD design. I don’t know anyone who keeps a silencer on one gun even if they bought it for a specific gun. Plus running a brake QD mount on an SBR will increase the life of your silencer.

My bad, thought he was talking about the AAC M42k.

4th child is due here in July and my budget is my budget. With that being said I doubt I will shoot the can out being as I will probably not have enough money to put more than a thousand rounds through it in a year. Maybe when I’m in my 50s I will have the cash to shoot it out.
I just want to add a tool to my tool box that can help me best defend my family. I believe reducing noise in a gunfight in an enclosed area would be something that fits the bill.
Thanks for the thoughts though.

Nobody makes the right can for you. A cheaper thread on can with wrench flats. You could rocksett and properly torque the silencer on. It wouldn’t come loose but could be removed if you needed to clean the barrel.

I have two rifles with dedicated threaded suppressors.
Both were installed on acetone cleaned threads with Nord-lock washers and tightened with a rubber strap wrench. Neither have loosened in several thousand rounds and dozens of heat/cool cycles.

double-Tapatalk

Thanks everyone for your thoughts.
Jody thanks for the advice on how to make the can stay put.

Ok, I have some questions.

Do you mean thread mount suppressors such as the Trek work loose on semi guns but not full autos? Or are you just acknowledging the tendency in general?

I had basically the same idea of using a Trek as a dedicated SBR can. I wanted a small, reasonably efficient suppressor to replace the flash hider. Bi Lock suppressors such as the G5 are a bit larger than I wanted (I already have a few HALOs).

I looked at some of the mini SureFires but most seem to require at least a 14.5" barrel.

I should have said autoloading rifles, but really it’s more about the use.

I’d only recommend a thread mount silencer for a gun that does not get run hard. Like hunting or target shooting at a slow pace.

Anything run hard will get the silencer too hot to touch pretty quick and then you won’t be able to check that it stays tight without burning your hand or putting on a glove.

I’ve run mine through a 1500 rounds in 2 days carbine course and multiple 3-gun matches with zero loosening issues with the above mentioned Nord-Lock.
It’s easy to check for tightness without actually touching the suppressor, just look at the suppressor to barrel interface for signs of loosening. You can easily see if it has started backing off to the point that a baffle strike is imminent. Even a 1/4 turn will show a small daylight gap between the suppressor and barrel shoulder.
You can also use a punch to make a witness mark at top dead center on the can which will let you know at a glance whether it’s loosened or not.

Actually it’s pretty easy, you just need to put an indexing mark on the suppressor.

It’s easy for a silencer to go from tight to loose in 30 rounds. If I’m doing anything but slow target shooting from a bench I don’t want to think about the silencer and if it is or is not getting loose.

I have no experience with the lock washers.

I understand what you are saying and appreciate what you are getting at.

And if I were dropping into Borneo it would be a serious consideration.

But for recreational shooting or even training and drills I can watch my registration mark for movement. Given that I began shooting suppressed back in the late 70s I’m actually accustomed to this need.

There are also a host of gimmicks which will keep a lot of thread mounted cans in place.

If I find myself in a HD situation, it probably won’t go beyond 30 rounds anyway. And if it does and the worst thing that happens is I ventilate a can, it really won’t be a big deal.

This is one of those areas where the civilian shooter can enjoy a lot more leeway than the military shooter.

When I pay a $200 transfer tax on an expensive item with poor resale value the extra cost of a QD mount silencer spread over the life of it is well worth it to me. I can see the recreational shooters side of it but I know several guys that bought a thread mount silencer for that type of shooting because of the lower price. All now wish they had spent more for a QD mount silencer.

I would like to see wrench flats on thread mount silencers so they could be torqued more than hand tight. I think that could make them more useful.