i understand that most people like to shave their front sight down when putting a longer handguard on their rifle compared to going with a low-pro gas block. normally, i would, too… but i am going with a handguard that has no rails and is heavily perforated and the looks of a shaved front sight are just ugly, in my opinion. i really liked the looks of the daniel defense low pro and i understand dd has a great reputation… but i am still concerned with going the low pro route. how secure are they, really? is it that big of a problem? also, is it essential to have an adjustable vent? for most applications, i can’t see much of an advantage to this.
what kind of weapon is it? gas length/barrel size? do you run a suppressor?
switchblocks are for SBRs with suppressors, mainly… no benefit to someone with a 16" barrel and no suppressor, for example.
as far as low profile gas blocks- the shaved FSBs can be ugly or good looking depending entirely on the skill and care of the armorer/smith who does the work. most handguards conceal pretty well, i really wouldn’t worry about it too much. as far as other concerns, the shaved FSB is definately the most secure method- but if there’s a chance you’ll ever want to switch back to a fixed FSB, you’re gonna be SOL or out a lot of money getting another one retrofitted. if you take it off and save it, you can always put it back on. low profile blocks that are concealed completely under handguards don’t need to be like-welded secure- they aren’t going to take any abuse, so even set-screwed and clamp-on blocks shouldn’t give you any problems, so long as they’re properly prepped, installed, and red-loctited on.
there’s no right answer… and several conflicting things to consider. have fun.
thank you for your reply. yeah, i just run a semi 16" with no can or anything. i didn’t figure there would be any benefit to having the adjustable gas.
now, when you said: “…the shaved FSB is definately the most secure method- but if there’s a chance you’ll ever want to switch back to a fixed FSB, you’re gonna be SOL or out a lot of money getting another one retrofitted. if you take it off and save it, you can always put it back on.” what did you mean by out a lot of money? if i cut the fsb and want to go back to it someday, couldn’t i just purchase another fsb? they seem somewhat cheap. also, if i just take it off and go with a low pro and wanted to go back to the fsb, wouldn’t that, in effect, be the same as cutting it and buying a new one? what kind of retro fitting would be involved?
negative… each FSB and barrel it belongs to are drilled and reamed together, which makes every FSB/barrel combination unique. you can’t just re-drill another FSB, ream it, and hope that the holes will somehow line up. the only way to install another pinned FSB will be to weld the holes, turn the barrel, re-temper, refinish, and start over- in other words, you’d be in the market for a new barrel assembly.
if you just remove and save the FSB, however, you’re not damaging it any and you’ve still got the original holes in the FSB and barrel, and it can be re-installed at a later time.
well, that will be my deciding factor. thank you! i’m looking at the midwest 10" ss handguard after giving much consideration to the dd omega, also. as for a low pro gas block, i am considering the one dd has to offer. are all low pro gas blocks compatible with most handguards, granted they are for your barrel size?
http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=269
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Daniel-Defense-Low-Profile-Gas-Block-p/dd-9111.htm
that is what i’m looking at. the dd description says it works with certain rails of theirs, does that mean it wont work with the mi? seeing how the mi does have a rail on the top of the handguard, i would think that the dd gas block would slide right in.
wow… that things a monster. i would guess that the DD block would fit… it’s not too much fatter than a well-shaved FSB, and is beveled at the top. you could always just use an MI block with the MI rail- probably the safest bet. i’d call and make sure it’ll cover the second FSB pin hole, though- cant tell just by looking if it will or not.
http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=253
the thing about the mi gas blocks, don’t they use set screws on the bottom? in which, i would have to have the barrel dimpled, wouldn’t i?
it’s “better” to, but not necessary. it’ll bite more than enough to hold, fully protected under the handguard- just make sure to follow whatever screw prep instructions it gives, and even if it comes with loctite on the threads, i’d add a little dab of red somewhere anyway (this goes for any screw block).
but i only suggest it because you know it will fit. the DD block will probably fit also… you could always give either MI or DD a call- or both. DD can be a little of a pain in the ass to get ahold of, but they’re good people. no exprience with MI.
also- does anyone make a sling attachment for a perforated handguard like that or should i just mount a piece of rail and get a rail mount sling attachment?
you can snap-hook straight to it, or creatively bolt a rail section to it. if you’re wanting modularity this isn’t gonna be a good rail for you, though. what exactly are you looking for in a handguard?
also, the slip-ring designs generally aren’t great for weapons that will have any torque applied on a regular basis… such as a sling attachment, VFG, or bi-pod. all that keeps them from rotating is thread tension, and will twist if enough and/or repetitive force is applied.
i really like the design, the size (diameter), and i don’t plan on bolting much to it. vfg and vtac sling are really the only things i want on the handguard… that’s it. if there is a better option, i’m open to suggestions… however, i do not like quad rail handguards… i dont like the way they feel. i suppose there are other options like the troy and whatnot, but it is very small (i have bigger hands). i guess i’ve been sold on this rail for quite a while, but don’t wanna screw things up by mounting a vfg and sling mount to it.
i try not to offer unasked-for advice- but i do think you could be better served with something else. the Vtacs are probably right up your alley.
http://www.vikingtactics.com/handguard.html
the standard vtac is onlly $175 in any size at www.rainierarms.com… comes in 7, 9 and 12" models… the xtreme vtac, which comes with an integral top rail, come in an 11" model additionally.
then you just buy whatever pieces of rail you need… great modularily in a strong platform. wide use in competitive shooting, even seen some on PSD SDDM types in the 'Box. i currently have one on an SDMR that i’m gonna move over to my SPR.
hey, the more i think about it, the more the troy trx extreme is rubbing off on me. you make a good point about adding as much rail as you like and it can be covered with ladders, etc. the locking system makes much more sense and i would more inclined to trust it. thank you for your time and your knowledge. i appreciate it.
also, if i went with the troy, what low pro gas block would fit and actually cover up the markings from my stock fsb? the one troy sells doesn’t look long enough.
LD,
I use a LaRue LP gas block. The Ranier Arms dimple jig will dimple the barrel perfectly for it and the best part is that it will cover the taper pin holes left by the FSB. It is SUPER low pro also.
See the pic and check it out at www.laruetactical.com
You have to type LT202 into the search as it is not listed directly (I don’t know why).
Sparky
Actually, I saw the larue earlier and sent somebody a pm… How ironic. Do you have the troy rail? Also, if I use the dimple tool, does it ruin the parkerization in that spot? It doesn’t sacrifice structural integrity or shootability, does it? Any pics?
No, I use a LaRue HG. No compromise but you will cut through the park but it is protected under the GB…you coul cold blue or AlumaHyde paint it if you wanted to but it would seem like overkill to me as the GB Covers and protects it.
Sparky
P.S. I’ve never seen anything lower pro.
It’s not all that important to use an adjustable gas block. That is unless you are going to experiment with various types of ammo.
it’s not only “not all that important,” it’s totally unnecessary, of absolutely no benefit, and would only add useless complication and expense for the OP to use an adjustable gas block. this was established in the second post of the thread.
are you trying to make some additional point?