Yes, he answered that. I ordered last saturday and received V2 on Wednesday.
It does not. I anticipated what you are describing being an issue with the T-1 as it secures from the bottom of the mount.
The other optic options I beleive all secure from the top.
With the RMR you should assemble the optic mount and zero the iron sight without the optic. Utilize the dovetail between the two parts and the front sight for elevation. Once zeroed install the optic, in the case of the RMR the screws that attach the optic to the mount pass through the top surface. Now all thats left is to zero the optic.
Thanks. I don’t think I will have any problem zeroing the T-1. I am concerned how the two pieces of the mount connect and are held in place by the one set screw. If the screw is slightly loose there is up and down movement possible in the back base that holds the optic.
To tighten the set screw properly means removing the T-1. I am not confident this connection will stay tight. Not sure if I’m going to try and fix it by drilling the “dimple” for the set screw or just return it. more to follow.
I used red loctight not the stuff mi provided and dogged it down. All secure on mine.
If you know what you are doing red will do the trick. nothing will loosen there . We include the vibra tight for a removable installation . if you want the most rugged set up blue would be ideal red best. If i inlcuded those I would unfortunatly have endless calls of stripped screws and such. I did it with another part in the past and it was a nightmare. The key to these mounts is take your time and make sure all your bolts are very tight and use the thread loc. A couple extra minutes installing can make a big difference in overall performance. The AK platform is not the same as others ( ar-15) and one must realize quality and tolerances vary a ton.
THANKS
TROY
MI
Troy, the issue I raised about the connection between the rear mount, specific to my T-1, and the front mount (common to any AK)has nothing to do with variances in the design of the AK.
The connection is a dovetail joint between a two piece mount secured by a small set screw. This is a problem. I want this to work for me, but right now, I don’t see this being solid enough for hard use.
The rear part of the mount is not secure enough for me. The mount needs to be one piece, or the two pieces need to lock together rock sold. As shipped by MI, the rear part of my mount that the optic attaches to moves up and down with ease. No good.
Dwood
Ok, if you are not happy please send it in for a refund. Any of these small goose neck type mounts will never be as rigid as a hand guard mounted unit. If you are going to war this is not the mount .There are tougher choices available. We are all about making sure our customers are happy with what they have.
TROY
MI
Troy, I like the mount. I’ll see if I can get it set up to my satisfaction rather than ask for a refund. I’m pretty sure I can.
I think the dovetail will not move at all if I drill a small recess hole for the set screw to tighten down into and use red locktite. I don’t see the need to be able to seperate the bases, but will have to make sure it is centered before drilling and locking it down.
I am also concerned about the leveling set screw coming loose. I used blue locktite and will see how that works.
I would personally avoid red thread locker if at all possible.
Make sure your threads on both parts are clean and have no lube on them. Then apply blue thread locker and torque. Leave it alone until it dries and you should be good to go.
Concure with all the above. Red Loc-tight is a commitment so ensure evrything is zeroed where you want it to be if you go down that road.
I take for granted I have access to equipment to be able to fix any problems I create and should be better about not advising others to do things that may get them in troubble.
As for removing red Loc-tight…heat works wonders. I have a small butane pencil torch/soldering iron that I got from Home depot for 20 bucks and it does great things for sitations such as this. Down side is the finish stands a good chance of getting dicked up and you will need to chase the threads with a tap to remove the residual red Loc-Tight. So if you have access to a heat source a blasting cabinet, durracoat, curing oven and taps and are not afraid to possibly screw it up red works well. If you are not comfortable with the possible results stick with blue or the included product from MI.
Not trying to sound condesending just dont want to be responsible for advising others to do something that will possibly cause them added grief.
A06
I did one here with blue and red . It tightens them up big time .
If you want a rugged install that is the ticket.
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE SCREWS OUT EASILY OR AT ALL.
Thanks
Troy
MI