Many 1911 guys have suggested putting a full length guide rod on my SA officer’s model. I understand the idea behind not wanting spring kinking, but looking at brownells, I’m seeing countless options and I have no idea what the difference is.
1pc, 2pc, recoil buffers, I’m confused.
Any help is appreciated.
My Springer came with a FLGR when I bought it a few years ago. Last month I ditched it in favor of the traditional set up, something that most people seem to do. The gun was designed that way, and your chances of kinking the spring are pretty slim, IMO.
One thing I did notice when I replaced the guide rod, though. The recoil spring that came with my SA was significantly longer than the one I replaced it with (Nighthawk 17lb). I mean like an inch or two longer.
You will get lots of opinions on this question.
Officers’ model 1911’s have inherent cycling/timing issues usually related to a shorter barrel (3.5") etc.
imo, from my experience & I actually own one that works exceptionally well meaning, accurate & reliable etc.
No buffers (they shorten the cycling length) & no 2 piece guide rods (they tend to come undone etc.) are generally a good start.
Kings Gun Works use to make a Officer’s Recoil Spring Guide Kit (#306A) that was probably one of the best out there.
It has a one piece guide rod, captive recoil spring & guide rod that allow a roll pin / paper clip etc to hold the tension for disassembly etc. Have a reverse plug & better more robust bushing IMSC.
http://www.kingsgunworks.com/catalog/KG_Catalog.pdf
Unfortunately, they sold all their inventory last year & are difficult to find.
Some like the Brown’s one piece as well.
I’m sure other’s have experiences with other remedies as well etc.
Some like the Clark’s Drop in Guide Rod Plug to be used w/ recoil spring and recoil spring guide plug.
http://www.clarkcustomguns.com/clk208om.htm
HTH…
YMMV…
Although I have FLGRs in a couple of my pistols (came new with them), I have never found them to operate any better or worse because of the FLGR that I could tell. Most do not consider them to be of any advantage except a very small amount of users say the extra weight “up front” is of advantage for less recoil. I have never found that to be so.
If you have no problem with one already installed that isn’t difficult to field strip, then leave it. If it complicates take down then I would suggest you replace it.
Take down is kinda a pain and one of the driving reasons I’m considering the FLGR. Just something else to order along with replacement sights will make me feel better about shipping costs.
The full length guide rod can actually be an added danger if you happen to accidentally drop the pistol. This is only with those that have no firing pin safety, and if the manual safety is not applied.
If you were to drop one of the non-firing pin safety weapons and it landed on the muzzle with the chamber loaded and the manual safety off, the slide would move back removing the primer from alignment with the firing pin. Then if the firing pin were to move forward with enough energy to discharge the round due to inertia, it would miss the primer. A full length guide rod would prevent this movement and allow the firing pin to strike the primer. The same would occur if the manual safety was applied, as the slide then cannot move back either. This is one of the reasons Colt went to the firing pin safety.
Also, the full length guide rod eliminates emergency operation of the slide one handed by pushing the bottom of the front against something. A lot of 1911 fans consider this important.
Sacrilege! Do you remember the thrashing I got on that “other” forum for even suggesting FLGR in some 1911s may be an option? 
Does the gun run fine without it? As the FLGR adds both potential pros/cons (some feeling the cons outweigh any potential pros) I tend to approach this one from the “if it aint broke don’t fix it” position, which is the default position to take with 1911s in my experience.
Guns that came with FLGRs and ran well, I tend to leave them there, but it depends on what the use is. CCW/SD guns = no FLGR, no buffers, etc.
In range guns, IDPA guns, etc, FLGR and buffers (used in 5" full sized only!) seem to lower/smooth the recoil pulse to me, which may be simply due to the added weight, or other, but most notice it.
They are an option but one I consider a “waste of time and money” option. The only reason FLGRs remain in my 1911s is that I have no operational problems and they cause no take-down problems. The minute they would cause either is the minute they would go. It’s another “answer looking for a question” thing.
If it ain’t broke, fix it till it is! 
WB
Spoken like a long time gun owner! :sarcastic:
I’ve owned 1911s with FLGRs and without them (still do), and tend to accept the school of thought that the full-length guide rod is one of the most brilliant and well-executed solutions possible to a problem that has never actually existed.
They may or may not smooth out the cycling of the gun, but they do enjoy a consistent track record of separating 1911 owners from their money. Whether that is worth it probably depends upon the individual gun and/or owner. Honestly, I think it makes little to no difference at all.
AC
I just replaced my FLGR on my Springfield Loaded the other day.
My main reason for doing so was simply because I kept misplacing the allen wrench needed to take the pistol down.
I saw the end of a FLGR come off during a class a few months ago rendering the pistol useless. I’ll stay with the GI version.
Since replacing my FLGR on my Springfield loaded, I am much happier with my 1911. Having to use a tool to take down a pistol is a real pain.
when i first got into 1911’s, i was all for FLGR’s. I would hear uneducated people on youtube give reasons as to why they’re great and i thought they just plain looked cooler.
Now that i own 2 1911’s, i prefer GI length guide rods.
Things that you learn by doing eh? :dirol:
[QUOTE=spdldr;978239]The full length guide rod can actually be an added danger if you happen to accidentally drop the pistol. This is only with those that have no firing pin safety, and if the manual safety is not applied.
If you were to drop one of the non-firing pin safety weapons and it landed on the muzzle with the chamber loaded and the manual safety off, the slide would move back removing the primer from alignment with the firing pin. Then if the firing pin were to move forward with enough energy to discharge the round due to inertia, it would miss the primer. A full length guide rod would prevent this movement and allow the firing pin to strike the primer. The same would occur if the manual safety was applied, as the slide then cannot move back either. This is one of the reasons Colt went to the firing pin safety.
QUOTE]
Not according to these tests…
http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92823&page=all
I was in the same boat last year and did alittle looking for parts and found them at EGW.
They have the one piece guide rod, reverse hat plug with a flat wire recoil spring that is supposed to take ‘50,000’ cycles. Shorty 45s are spring killers, and the 2-3 K average life of a Government spring doesn’t even come 600-1K range but haven’t for awhile since it is undergoing a rebuild.
I’ll try to attach a pic of the EGW and Factory Colt Set ups, Greg