I ordered a Yankee Hill Machine Diamond Series Free Float Carbine Forearm for my BushMaster carbine It appears that I will need to remove the front sight. Is that a major project. It “looks” like it is installed with rivets that I would need to drill out. If so what do I replace them with? Or is is this a job for the gun shop?
First off, I’m not familiar with how Bushmaster attaches their front sights?
But if it’s like most others, there are two pins that you will need to remove. They usually go in one way and get taken out the opposite. Another words, if they go in from left to right, you remove them right to left, and or visa versa. I hope that makes sense.
Brownells makes a front sight bench block which if you do this yourself, I highly recommend you get to avoid breaking anything. It supports the barrel/front sight while you drive the pins out. It sells for about $40 bucks. Problem is, it’s backordered. I know because I’m in the market for one myself. I may just trace my front sight as best I cabt onto some pine and cut one out. then if it’s good, trace it onto some harder wood, preferably oak, and then cut it out and just use it.
As for if it is a major project, NO, not at all. If you are mechanically inclined at all, have or get the correct tools, take your time and do it right, you should abd will be able to do it without any problems.
If you go to Adams Arms and watch the video they have on converting and installing a carbine piston system, where you have to remove the front sight, you can see what it takes to do it and how it’s done.
You can also find the same and other videos on youtube. As well as videos on how to install a free float hand guard.
And FWIW, and even though it’s backordered, here’s the link to the front sight bench block at Brownells…
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR_15_FRONT_SIGHT_BENCH_BLOCK
One other thing I feel I should mention and or point out.
KEEP IN MIND- AR’S ARE MADE OF LIGHT WEIGHT MATERIALS. MAINLY ALUMINUM. Duh right. lol SOME ARE CAST. I’M SURE YOU KNOW AND ARE AWARE OF THIS. THE REASON I’M EVEN SAYING ANYTHING IS BECAUSE OF THIS, WITHOUT SOME ITEMS AND OR AREAS BEING PROPERLY SUPPORTED, IT’S VERY EASY TO SNAP OR BREAK SOMETHING. THE MAIN REASON FOR, WHY I SUGGEST IT AND WHY THE FRONT SIGHT BENCH BLOCK IS MADE.
Another area that is prone to breaking is the trigger guard. as well as the mag well. So if you ever have to clamp your upper, get the proper action block for it as well.
Linked here >>> http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR_15_M16_UPPER_RECEIVER_ACTION_BLOCK
And if you just need something to hold it while working on it, there’s this. But remember, don’t twist the upper while using it as you just might rip the mag well?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25011/Product/AR_15_M16_LOWER_RECEIVER_VISE_BLOCK
Good luck, get and use the right tools. I’m sure you’ll be able to do it and have no problems and you’ll be both glad and proud you did.
Thank you for the well thought out informative post. You are correct it is pins not a rivet, but you knew that. I should have looked before posting. Now to get BushMaster to tell me if they go in right to left or visa/versa. I can’t tell by looking at them.
This AR tool thing is starting to get pricey. Here I was thinking I have most any tool you’d need to take care of a gun.
Yea, pricey, I’m discovering that very thing. lol But it’s either buy the tool/s or pay someone that has the tools to do the work. Obviously if you can’t do the work that’s the BEST thing to do. But if you can do it and might need and use the same tool/s down the road, then getting the tool/s is the BEST thing to do…
I’d also point out, with the Brownell’s front sight bench block, it is made so one way say remove pins and turn it over and it says install pins. Something like that. And if you click the link i left in my previous pst and click on enlarge photo, you should/can see that???
As for the information, you’re quite welcome and I merely answered it how I’d want someone to reply and or answer a question I had or might have.
Left to right. They are not easy so take your time. I too recommend the Brownell’s block and good quality punches. Heavy hammer till the pin moves and a smaller hammer to get them out. That’s just how I do it. I don’t know what rail you have but free float rails also require that you remove the barrel nut and use the one supplied with the rail. This means you will also need a barrel wrench and a torque wrench.