Gentlemen,
I wanted to take a few quick minutes to get out a quick guide on how to inspect a used or homebuilt FAL prior to buying. Not a knock to Buck, but I wasn’t quite satisfied with the “Buyer’s Guide” posted below, because it basically tells you to buy a DSA or a high dollar factory import FAL… or maybe a big name builder as a last resort.
The FAL is a very forgiving rifle, due in large part to its adjustable gas system, and many issues which would deadline another design are easily overcome. It is a finesse weapon, unlike an M-14 or G-3 or really anything else that was around then or is around now. I think some people are intimidated to purchase a Kit Build because they lack the Knowledge (capital K), and that’s just silly. IMO, an all-Imbel isn’t so vastly superior for being wrenched together in Itajuba vs. KalashniKEV Armes de Guerre, and DSA isn’t the only acceptable option. In fact, original Mil Spec parts are in some ways superior to high quality commercial parts from DSA. Hopefully this guide can shed a little light on the issues that may affect serviceability and reliable operation.
I won’t be going too much into the maintenance or the process of building, and I’m not going to talk about parts count, or how to tell if your bedliner coated STG-profile buttstock is US made or foreign underneath. I also won’t be going into what an early type dutch mag release looks like or any of that… this is strictly a simple T/I checklist based on my experience with the rifle. Others please feel free to add or provide correction/clarification as needed.
We’re all here to learn.
The first step is to determine if you have a Metric or Inch pattern rifle… or a mixed gun. Mixed guns can still be accurate and reliable, but I would definitely put a mark in the minus column and see where things add up at the end. Obviously we all know that Inch guns run both Inch mags and Metric (with some wobble) and Metric guns run only metric.
If the gun has not been refinished, take a look at the overall finish of the external parts to determine how much use the gun has seen. This isn’t always an indicator, as there are plenty of highly worn Imbel kits out there that have very strong, almost new bores. If the kit is of uniform origin, a little knowledge of history is helpful. Any rifle that has been through an armed conflict may be very worn, and have a lot of rounds on it. A lot of the ones that weren’t can be very good, since very few countries have training budgets like we do for ammunition.
A few common kits are below, with ID features based on the front end (we’re assuming uniform origin):
The G-1 kits that came in (primary ID feature is the single lugged barrel with quick detach muzzle accessories and bipod w/ sheet metal HGs) were Belgian made for a German contract, and later sold off to the Turks, who invaded Cyprus with them. Some can be very rough, some can be very nice. These I think tend to have the most variance.
The Imbel kits are typically very worn on the outside, but have good, strong bores. Primary ID feature is the standard Short FH and bipod cut, fiberglass HGs.
The STG-58 kits are usually nice, but can have some rounds on them. Primary ID feature is the Stoll FH and bipod w/ sheet metal HGs. The Austrians didn’t let them get thrashed and keep on using them like the Turks did, but you may get one that was approaching time for rearsenal when it was de-milled.
The R1 kits have a lot of history to them, but are all pretty rough that I’ve seen. Primary ID feature is the non-bipod cut synthetic HGs and lots of moss green to mustard yellow paint on them.
Starting from the muzzle, I would then inspect the regulator. Does the regulator ring spin a little too freely? Does it not lock positively in each position? Some are too tight to rotate, and will require the special spanner tool. If the rifle you are checking out hasn’t been cleaned, you can derive a bit of intel here. Look at the lower rear portion of the front sight tower for signs of gas leakage during operation. This will be carbon buildup or bright copper fouling around more than just the very top of the port. A leaking gas system can still be made reliable by bleeding more gas, but this is obviously not ideal.
Next I would pop the gas plug and remove the piston. I like to inspect the face of the piston for pitting, and the pattern of carbon buildup, though lack of a carbon “smile” doesn’t mean there isn’t uneven gas distribution like on a fixed piston gun like an AK. (It’s usually not an issue there either, but I like to get forensic with the task). I will then remove the piston spring and roll the piston on a flat surface, just as you would a pool cue at your favorite dive bar. Sustained full auto fire can lead to a warped piston, which is of course not ideal. If possible, I would remove the handguards to check the barrel proof marks, and perhaps even pull and check the gas tube for compressed threads, if there are signs of leakage.
Moving on, I would then look at the upper and lower fit (FALs are a lot less rattly by nature than ARs though splitting the sights was still not a good idea!) and break the weapon. I would look inside the receiver for signs of dremel use or excessive wear, and then take a hard look at the locking shoulder.
If it looks beat down or appears irregular or knicked up, that’s a very bad sign. Additionally, it may have been ground down to allow the bolt to drop into battery. Certain domestic manufacturers, intentionally or unintentionally, have located the axis for the locking shoulder a little too close to the chamber area. This makes it necessary to grind back the locking shoulder to allow the bolt to go into battery. Obviously this is NOT the standard and you don’t want a “custom headspace” fitted in this fashion. Next I would check headspace with gauges, or if I had to using the expedient method with masking tape.
From there I would move on to the bolt carrier assembly. Signs of excessive wear on the lower portion of the bolt are bad, as is of course signs of the dremel. Look at the bolt face for pitting or corrosion. Next I would inspect the rat tail for straightness and make sure it moves freely up and down. A lot of FALs also have marks on the lower where you can see that the rat tail was not aligned properly on closing. This is something you should always check for on closing, but if your rat tail is straight and not mangled it should be unaffected by the marks, so long as they don’t have any raised edges.
Lastly, I would inspect the FCG to ensure that it is all parts are genuine US and not a modified FA group. I would ensure the safety and bolt move easily and freely, and that the rear sight is straight and not excessively loose. All standard rear sights I’ve seen have had both side to side and front to back wiggle. If it appears to have been dropped on the rear sight then that’s obviously not conducive to stellar accuracy. You might actually shim the rear to take out the slop, or if it’s not too crazy leave it as is.
That’s about all I can think about for now, members please feel free to add your input and experience. I will add more if you guys like the thread, or if I think of anything…