Currently have a 14.5” barrel with a muzzle break on it, flat shooting gun but it is like a dragon when I shoot it, wanted it to be my go to but everything I have read not good for flash reduction.
Wondering if I should have the muzzle brake cut off and have a flash hider pinned and welded or am I over thinking it and should leave it alone?
I hate breaks unless they’re being used solely for a suppressor, I.E. the can never comes off.
I am currently using the Deadair flash hiders with Keymo. I find they do a great job at flash mitigation and they don’t ring. And latter on down the road I can throw on a Deadair can.
I’ve never used this one, as I have no interest in P&W barrels, but this Flash Hider is thin enough that a .750 gas block will fit over it, thus negating one of the biggest reasons not to P&W a barrel.
I have used a couple of the Yankee Hill Machine Phantom 5C2 I believe it is, the one without the teeth. Very nice machining if you are into that. Like an A2 it needs timing.
The bitch is…good luck finding a FOSSA, they are most often unobtanium. You’ve got to be extra patient for one, which makes a P&W a bit of an obstacle.
BTW there are suppressors that will work with these MDs like the Gemtech HALO and Griffin’s GP-N.
For my non suppressed rifles I use the FOSSA 5.56. For my 18" Reece/DMR type rifle I use a Precision Armament AFAB hybrid muzzle device. For my 11.5" suppressed carbine I like the Dead Air Xeno Threaded Taper Mount Flash hider.
If you plan to run a suppressor, buy a MD that will mount whichever suppressor you want. I run Surefire 3 and 4 prong flash hiders almost exclusively because I have a Surefire can. A lot of suppressor manufacturers are starting to use 1.375x24 threads, which will work with Q plan B, and Dead Air Keymo adapters and mounts.