Dont cleant your sealed rifle can they say....

General Firearms NFA
1

Figured Id drop this here and be a test subject for everyone.

Ive owned a AAC M4-2000 for several years now, I rarely shoot anything 5.56mm unsuppressed now a days.

Yes I understand almost every rifle suppressor manufacturer says not to clean sealed rifle cans, as they supposedly self cleaning. Hmm sounds somewhat familiar to the Vietnam era thinking of when it came to ARs doesn’t it?

In my experience from shooting mine quite a bit, some sort of cleaning will eventually be needed. I am 8K+++ down my can, which is a heavily conservative estimate, and it has significant carbon fouling.

I have noticed that switching between different adapters, such as a MB to a FH on separate hosts will knock a small amount free, but still there is significant fouling.

One thing to note, I didn’t use a FH mount until this summer, doing so knocked a few large chunks free, and then I noticed I had a end cap strike. Not sure I can 100% blame the carbon breaking loose causing this, but having that rattle around inside a can cannot be good.

Ive tried a few different thing, I have soaked it in mineral spirits, carbon killer, CLP, with absolutely no results. I have tried copper and steel brushes, with no results. The only thing that has even began to remove the fouling is a flat head screw driver and a hammer(yea its in there that good).

So despite the standard response of, you don’t need to clean your suppressor, what can I do here?

Update- I already whaled at it with a screw driver and hammer. Next step is to either dip it or drop it in the cleaning tank at the shop. Ill post pics with the after action results of which ever I go with.

[span style=‘font-weight: bold;’]Updated pic after being tenderly loved with a hammer and flat head screw driver[/span]

2ND Update: Now onto more serious measures.

First several cycles of the ultrasonic cleaner provided zero results. I was about to think I wasted my money, then a few more cycles and the tank looked like this. After the last cycle of the night I pulled the can out and could clean carbon from the blast chamber much easier than I ever thought I would. I think with several more hours in the UC it will provide nice results

Im still not done. Im going to do several more cycles in hopes it comes out looking new.

2

Put the hammer and flat head down - let chemicals to do the work for you.

By far the best solution I’ve used is the “dip” - 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar (peracetic acid), leave it over night or flush it and repeat a few times if necessary. But ensure it’s safe for your suppressor first (stainless steel or Inconcel), your M4-2000 is good to go. Don’t forget to use PPE and dispose of it properly.

I also heard soda blasting works, but haven’t tried it myself. I imagine it doesn’t work well in a sealed can, other than the mounting interface. I’ve also read that CLR works, but haven’t personally tried it yet. Even with the dip, especially in a sealed can, it’s difficult with the caked on carbon, as you still need some abrasion to work or wipe the soften carbon out. I also haven’t had good luck with ultrasonic cleaners either for the really caked on funk.

Look forward to seeing how much she’ll weigh and the before and after pictures.

3

The hammer and screw driver is what got a majority of it out. AAC said it wasn’t a bad method to use in my case.

I heard from a Surefire employee to use CLR. That’s probably my next step. Then the Dip if that doesn’t get it done.

I probably have only cleaned the can for an hour total in the UC. It has a 8 minute cleaning session as a max. That’s been annoying to deal with.

I feel with enough use of the UC it will get clean. It definitely makes the carbon much easier to remove. Its just too bad I cant let that thing run straight for a few days as I know it would be good to go then

4

I have perhaps twice the amount of rounds through my suppressor, almost all fired from a 10.3" or 11.5" w/ Muzzle Brake and my M4-2000 doesn’t even look close to that filthy.

What kind of shooting do you do? Mine has a very, very thin “film” of carbon and that’s it. No chunks or anything like what you show in your pics

Also, on your PEQ how do you use it in the position it’s in with the BUIS in front of it? I get really bad IR reflection when used behind a Troy BUIS

5

Little bit of everything. Goes to the range every time with me, classes, social outings, etc

Hasn’t seen very much full auto.

I never dump mags through it

6

Hmm, I wonder if the lack of really hot rapid fire is the difference then?

7

Not sure. It has definitely seen rapid fire before as well as limited full auto. My firing schedules are just all over the place depending on where Im shooting at and for what reason

8

The difference between euros can and chase’s can could also be from the brand/type of ammo used.

9

Ive used everything under the sun.

M193
M885
PMC .223
Wolf .223
Reloads
Hornady

Hard to say what I have used more. Very little wolf(1k) when compared to the others.

10

Most of that filth and the end plate strike could be from the 1K of Wolf.

11

I know for certain wolf ammo did not cause either.

Both the filth and end cap strike was there before I ordered a K of wolf. Filth has been there for some time and Im just now getting serious about getting it out. Mainly due to switching hosts and having chunks break free from inside the can

I had no issues out of wolf ammo and got pretty darn good accuracy out of it. Its not my favorite, but had a line on some for real cheap.

1k is a drop in the bucket compared to how many rounds are through that can

12

I haven’t had an issue to be honest. Its mounted right up against the sight. The red laser splashes it every so gently but not enough to mess with anything. I want to say the IR laser doesn’t hit it at all, but the illuminator does splash on it a tid bit.

Really been no issue to be honest. No more than the PEQ2a I had anyways. I figure their all going to splash slightly.

Ive only used it once at night due to this ignorant cold. Sighting it in I got a nice hand size group at 100 yards, in complete darkness.

Honestly like this civilian laser much more than the full powers I have used, the IR laser isn’t powerful enough to splash the target resulting in very good accuracy, for a laser that is

13

Once you get it clean is there any value or danger in soaking the ting if fireclean or some other chemical to prevent the caking to begin with??

14

Anyone try electrocleaning? Might help blow some of that crap out.

15

What about sending it back to manufacturer for cleaning and maintenance check ?

16

Did a few hours with CLR.

Here’s some pics. Changed solution and going to do it for a few more then call it good.

17

Yeah, I’d say that did the trick! Rattle can time.

18

What is CLR?

19

http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm

20

I did several cycles all day long with CLR. I replaced the solution again with CLR before dinner. I cycled it for a few more hours. It didn’t seem to be doing anything and I figured I finally hit a point to where it wasn’t going to do much more. However I still ran one last cycle and the solution became dirty. So I decided a few more cycles were in order.

I left the can in over night. I hit it again with two more cycles this morning. I left it with the heat on and cycle running when I left. Ill pull it out when I get home later and call it good.

Im thinking about pulling it out and drying it, and then immediately running and firing a box through it. Seems the UC has softend up what remains quite a bit. Im wondering if the pressure from firing will knock what remains out.