I’m going to be welding an AAC Ranger 2 onto an AR barrel. I know it’s sub optimal but SBRs are simply not an option in Washington state. I have two options, a cut down Colt barrel, and a cut down 14.5" MRP barrel. Both would be approx. 10.75" long.
I’m assuming I don’t need to modify the port in either. What buffer do I need? H3? I doubt I need an X as Colt and SAW open the ports in their dedicated suppressed rigs, or so I hear.
Has anyone here gone this route before me?
DO NOT DO THIS. I CANNOT EMPHASIS THIS ENOUGH. Stay with a 16" barrel.
I assume that you also realize that it is still unlawful to discharge a round through a suppressor in state?
You don’t need an SBR. I lived in Washington State and was able to make my 16" carbine work just fine.
You may well need to modify the port and whoever does the work should you decide to do it anyways, make sure that they are competent.
I expect that law to change, but I’m unconcerned if it doesn’t. I rarely shoot in public.
That was a side point. The reasons for not doing so should be rather clear. I suspect you will do it anyways.
All I can do is reiterate not to do it. The rest is up to you.
I have plenty of 16" barrels. I have a Surefire for them. I know I don’t need an SBR but I like them. Rainier Arms will do the work I just need to find out the porting and buffer requirements.
On a suppressed gun you need to make the port smaller. Not bigger.
ETA: You live in WA, I won’t give advice past that until the laws change.
That’s why I’m getting a longer barrel and cutting it back. Smaller port. Why not give advice it’s a legal weapon and I already own three cans…
i’ve heard of people doing this. as to whether or not its a good idea… sounds like you already have a little bit of a collection and the money to blow, so why not?
as to gas port size- there’s no standard for such a thing, but i would go with .062" and be prepared to adjust your buffer weight. with that as your port size, you may or may not need a heavier buffer… could be an H buffer will be the most reliable… you’ll just have to trial and error it.
what perming method are you thinking about? i’d probably pin/tig it, myself… seems to be the least destructive method for the barrel, to get off… and since suppressors typically dont last as long as barrels, you might be replacing it at some point down the road. no sense in having to buy a new barrel too.
I will be using an AAC Ranger 2 and expect it to outlast at least one barrel, but this would be a house gun not a training gun so if it gets 500 rounds a year I will be surprised. I’m not sure if it can be pinned, I suspect welding is the way to go. My preference would be to do like what Grant does with a .060 port and Surefire can, save me the dedicated can.
Since it will be welded, I need to figure out the port sizing first, then the buffers I can play with.
indeed… i guess you cant pin that one.
im not aware of any manfer that makes a barrel with a port smaller than .062, though some measure a thou or two smaller.
Colt is .063 and that might be small enough. LMT might be smaller though, my LMT would choke on light ammo. Anyone know the 14.5 MRP gas port size?
the drill is 1/16th, which is .0625 and some extra decimals… so the manfers that use 1/16th for their carbine length 14.5-16" barrels generally come in at .061-.063, due to variables in drill wear, runout, etc. two thousandths isn’t going to make a consistent noticeable difference, when you factor in everything else in the gun.
just go with a manfer that drills at 1/16th, and you’ll have what you want… so LMT, Colt, BCM, DD, off the top of my head, and others… but some do not. Sabre, for instance, drills .080 on ALL their barrels, regardless of length.
.080 across the board?!?!?!
They DESERVE their jail time for that!
0.060 is not the size that Grant uses.
I suspect it’s closer to .056. (My 16.1’’ cut to 14.5’’ cut to 11.2’’ uses this port.)
It will make a difference if you want it to run %100 optimally with your specific suppressor, specific buffer, and the weakest ammo you’ll use.
Mine is for H3 (defensive ammo), and H2 (training ammo). Refer to Grant.
Since you don’t want to listen to reason let me explain why this is not a smart idea.
How are you going to clean the barrel or suppressor for that matter? If you go in the can from the front you will probably end up with patches getting stuck or leaving debris inside.
If you from the rear you will be pushing shit into the can.
How are you going to deal with a baffle strike should you have one?
I encourage you to think this over and use some sense.
ADCO Firearms was making some 11.5" SBR barrels with small gas ports. They were sold in a package with an OPS, Inc. M4-S suppressor and a flash hider mount. I do not know the exact size of the port. They indicated the barrel should be dedicated exclusively to use with the can. Otherwise, the port should be opened up.
Unfortunately, I did not jump on this soon enough and they sold out. Probably not getting more and certainly not at the introductory price.
I doubt he’s going to be using as a 600 yard+ shooter. He stated it was for a house gun that would probably not see more than 500 rounds a year. For this type of use, a boresnake will work just fine.
What little buildup there is inside the bore will be much less than buildup going out the bore during firing, especially on a shorter barrel.
If he has a baffle strike, he;ll probably deal with it the same way everyone else does. Remove the can (or have a gunsmith remove it) and send it back.
You seem very adamant on pushing your opinion. You’ve already told him multiple times not to do it, yet that is not what he was asking for; he was asking for advice on port size specs and a buffer.
Boresnake if I must although I rarely clean carbine barrels past the chamber. If I get a baffle strike Im in a world of hurt but oh well.
Because it’s a FUCKING RETARDED IDEA for CHRIST’S SAKE.
Just because I’m gonna do it doesn’t mean I don’t know it’s fucking stupid…