I am looking at getting a DD Omega X 12.0 FSP rail to replace my Omega 7.0. The question I have is on their website it say gunsmith initial installation is required. I could not find online the instructions on installing the rail. Why does a gunsmith need to do the install?
The barrel and FSB need to be removed so you can install a proprietary barrel nut.
This rail uses the Lite/RIS II barrel nut so you’ll need to remove the flash hider and FSB to install that barrel nut. To tighten the DD barrel nut you’ll need a Lite Rail barrel wrench.
Tip: Many times I’ve had to trim down the ends of the taper pins as well because sometimes they contact the rail.
As long as you are comfortable removing the FSB and Barrel nut you won’t need a gun smith.
I installed mine last month and believe me I was a little concerned but once into it it was easy. Not sure if you want to fork out the cash but pick up a FSB block, makes removing the pins for me easier. YMMV.
Gotm4…Can you explain a little more what you mean regarding the pins rubbing. I am curious as to where your talking about. Just want to make sure I didn’t leave something I should take care of.
OP. You will enjoy that rail, as long as you like the looks it is a nice set up.
Shawn
ETA… Do you know if your flash hider is pinned or not, if it is then you are looking at a whole different level of work.
Shawn
No the flash hider is not pinned I still live in a free state.
I don’t mind taking the front sight off. I thought there must be some machining involved or something. Sounds like I will be selling a couple of Omega 7.0 for a good deal in the EE very soon. I am going to go ahead and get them. I am curious about the pins hitting the rail since the barrel is cut for the pins. How does it hit? Thanks for the tips guys.
The end of each side of true taper pins sometimes contact the rail on each side sometimes when everything is assembled. If they contact the rail I just grind them down so that they’re almost flush with the FSB using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Then I touch them up with G96 cold blue and oil it up the area with CLP to prevent rust. For barrels with 1/8" straight pins there is never any contact (barrels such as LMT, RRA etc with straight pins).
Even if they aren’t contacting the pins. Assemble everything and the smack the rail with your hand and see if you can get the rail to slam into the pins, if it does contact the pins I’d recommend trimming the pins. I’ve pretty much just gone to trimming the pins down anyway on all I install that the FSB uses taper pins vs. straight pins.
Thanks for the tips. I have a BCM upper do you know off hand if they are tapered or straight?
Makes perfect sense, thank you.
Shawn
BCM uses true taper pins.
DD barrel nut install. Flash hider already removed which is a simple normal direction threaded piece (unless pinned).
FSB removal (for taper pins)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uS0J3pRcNus
Barrel nut removal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw0TRpQWGxM
DD Barrel nut install
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijzYKTcYJMo
Thanks for the tips (epsecially about grinding down the taper pins that will save me a lot of time) and the videos. Looks like a no brainer. Now I can’t wait for the big brown truck.
Install went well and I am very happy with the rail. My second install went ever quicker ( I made a sight block for taking out the taper pins my self for the first one). One of the rails is missing the set screw but I am sure Bravo or DD can take care of that with no problem. Trimming the taper pins saved me from taking them in and out thanks again for the help guys.
Good to hear it went well! Now if you want to get into complete builds I have uploaded several segments and I am finishing the complete rifle build series that gets more in depth than most “build a rifle” videos. 
Your videos are good and I actually watched them, but not having your vice mounted on the table made me wince everytime the back side popped up.