This, I have used ADM mounts for a few years and always have good luck with them returning to zero when removed, and they are rock solid when locked down on the rail.
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This, I have used ADM mounts for a few years and always have good luck with them returning to zero when removed, and they are rock solid when locked down on the rail.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
He’s not wrong. If you’re using aperture sights the way they’re designed to be used, the rear sight disappears almost entirely. The whole purpose of the rear sight is to get you in a consistent place…because they are circular and the human eye is actually amazingly good at centering things in circles, 100% of your focus should be on the front sight. The rear sight shouldn’t even enter the equation…far more so than even with pistols. If your eye is in the right position(it should be because your nose should be touching or almost touching the charging handle,) and you then focus on the front sight it WILL center in your vision. This means that if you’re super consistent with your cheek weld and your natural point of aim, the rear sight doesn’t even need to be there to be accurate.
You have to think of iron sights like a 1x optic, and any visible iron sight like scope shadow from incorrect eye relief. Can you theoretically perfectly center the scope shadow in the optic and still hit what you’re aiming at? Sure…but it’s not optimal, it’s not the way it’s supposed to work, and it’s holding you back.
This is all related to why some people feel iron sights are a larger handicap than they really are…if you have a decent natural point of aim, and a consistent and proper cheek weld, then iron sights are really not much slower at all.