Customization....am I missing something?

AR/M4 AR General Discussion
61

I’m a S&W MP15T owner and I’m curious about the above comment.
Over gassed? This is the part where I’m the least knowledgable about the AR platform. What buffer do you think is in my gun from the factory? How can I tell? Should I change it even if it has ran fine for 1,500 plus rounds?

Can you elaborate on this a little?
I’m already aware of the 1:9 twist rate that been discussed to death here and I’ve seen “The Chart”.

I’d just like to know what some think the limitations or weaknesses of this rifle are.

Thanks

Scoby

62

Have you ever fired at stationary targets at night . It’s even harder when they are moving targets and shooting back.

63

Which NV device do you have? How much time do you have with it in a shoot house??

C4

64

Mil-Spec GP on a 14.5" barrel is .063. So if you have a 16" barrel then you should have something around .060-.061. Your gun could have anything from .068 to .074 (depending on how old it is).

Yes a gun that is over gassed will run. It is beating itself to death though and can/will cause pre-mature breaking and wearing of parts.

A S&W AR’s come with a car buffer. You can tell by the weight and the fact that it has no markings on it.

Can you elaborate on this a little?
I’m already aware of the 1:9 twist rate that been discussed to death here and I’ve seen “The Chart”.

I’d just like to know what some think the limitations or weaknesses of this rifle are.

Thanks

Scoby

They could use better barrel steel, HP/MP each barrel. Add H buffers and use a smaller gas ports. Switch to 1/7 twist.

C4

65

Thanks C4IGrant. Learning has occured as they say.

Scoby

66

I’ve seen others say this, but I still don’t understand…

In any real world HD or SHTF situation, I imagine myself using the flashlight to flash targets before shooting.
Once the shooting starts, then I’m probably not using my flashlight very much.
If it’s dark enough that I need a light to ID targets, then I’m probably not shooting enough to get the FSB hot, anyway.

Admittedly, I’m a civilian, and I don’t shoot a lot.

Of course I can understand that the guys who kick in doors for a living would see things differently, and I can understand that constantly shooting in competition or in carbine courses would be different, but for normal folks like me (and the OP), I don’t see a problem putting a flashlight out by the FSB.
Please advise (I’m here to learn).

In any case, you’re right, he could also attach a piece of rail to the regular handguard to mount a flashlight. That would also be a lot less expensive and less complication than a complete railed handguard.

Bimmer

67

I’m not dumb, but I’m still confused…

How strong does a light attachment really need to be?

My sense is that the weak point in most light attachments is where the (potentially plastic) mount fits to the rail, or where the (potentially plastic) body of the light fits the mount, not where the rail attaches to the gun.

It also occurs to me that any blow which would break a light mount would probably break the light itself.

I’ve got a TLR-1 mounted to a piece of rail. I worry about smashing the rail, and I worry about ripping the light off the rail (the Streamlight insert is plastic), but I don’t worry about ripping the rail off my gun.

Teach me,

Bimmer

68

A light attachment needs to be as strong as can be, as should anything attached to the firearm.

Even just at the range, I tend to run around a little bit and bump into barricades, slam the gun into the ground, and then it rattles around in my trunk for an hour or so on the way home.

Furthermore, why would you NOT want it as strong as possible? The benefit of a stronger part/mount far outweighs whatever perceived benefit one gets from running a weaker mount.

This is NOT to say that a rail section mounted to standard, plastic handguards, does not have it’s use, as it most emphatically does.

However, the OP asked about a rail system that would be included with a firearm of his choosing.

We don’t NEED any of these things. I, personally, will be running any firearm, AR or not, with at LEAST a white light, probably of the Surefire brand.

I consider a white light as invaluable as the ammunition for the gun. As far as expense goes… One can find a Surefire G2 nitrolon for sub-$60, and a mount can be had for about $45 or cheaper. Less than $100 for what I consider a must-have is nothing in this wonderful world of firearms.

T further address the OP’s concern and original questions…

The proper staking of components on your firearm is not an “upgrade,” it is a necessity. It also really won’t cost you anything, and if you buy from a reputable manufacturer, it will be done for you.

As far as replacing the BCG… I don’t know, as I bought quality the first time.

Buffer? Same thing. Running a heavy buffer in a mid-length gas system seems to be acceptable, and it works. Flawlessly. For 1700 rnds so far.

Everything you’ve stated is STRICTLY user preference. I bought a VLTOR EMOD stock because I like the way it feels, love the cheekweld, and like the way it balances the gun. I bought a Magpul MIAD grip because I hate the finger bump on a standard A2, like the adjustable backstrap, and like the subtle stippling. I don’t have any problem with the infamous gap, so I don’t worry about it. I boyght an Aimpoint Micro H-1 because I wear glasses, and I’ll be damned if it isn’t easier to get good, effective hits with a shiny red dot over what I want to shoot. I added a Larue 12 inch handguard because I have long arms, and my preferred grip has my support hand waaaaay out front, which is very hard to do with a standard 9 inch mid length handguard.

It’s ALL user preference. If you love the finger bump, love the plastic hanguards, love the iron sights, and hate white lights, don’t let anyone tell you different (although, really, you should get a light!).

69

A light attachment needs to be as strong as can be, as should anything attached to the firearm.

Even just at the range, I tend to run around a little bit and bump into barricades, slam the gun into the ground, and then it rattles around in my trunk for an hour or so on the way home.

Furthermore, why would you NOT want it as strong as possible? The benefit of a stronger part/mount far outweighs whatever perceived benefit one gets from running a weaker mount.

This is NOT to say that a rail section mounted to standard, plastic handguards, does not have it’s use, as it most emphatically does.

However, the OP asked about a rail system that would be included with a firearm of his choosing.

We don’t NEED any of these things. I, personally, will be running any firearm, AR or not, with at LEAST a white light, probably of the Surefire brand.

I consider a white light as invaluable as the ammunition for the gun. As far as expense goes… One can find a Surefire G2 nitrolon for sub-$60, and a mount can be had for about $45 or cheaper. Less than $100 for what I consider a must-have is nothing in this wonderful world of firearms.

Couldn’t have said it better, thanks!:smiley:

Also, you don’t want your light to snap off at an inopportune moment, leaving you with a daylight-only weapon. I work for a police department, where officers depend on their equipment to function, and the gear often takes a heavy toll. Running through buildings or the woods with your patrol rifle, one often runs into objects that may test the ruggedness of your rifle. Doorframes, branches, concrete walls, climbing over fences, not to mention tripping and falling, all conspire to test the integrity of your rifle and associated equipment. You wouldn’t want to be out on a search for a dangerous suspect, go over a chain-link fence, then realize your light fell off in the process. The picatinny rail system, while not invulnerable, provides a very solid anchoring platform for your gear, and has the benefit of being universal and tested to destruction by our armed forces.

70

Well, I don’t just attach an item to a carbine and call it “good”. I shoot with it, use it, see how it works, and then declare to myself that it works for my purposes. If I am using the carbine to vet the setup, the gas block will be getting hot. If I have unknown dark rooms to clear while practicing, or firing an iteration on a stationary line in a low light setting I have no idea at what point I will need the light, so my hand/thumb will need to be in close proximity until such time as “stand easy on the line” is called, or “all clear” is called.

You’re right that in the real civilian moment the gas block probably won’t be hot, and maybe I’ll only need to fire two rounds – then again, maybe it will be more and without gloves.

So I make the choices I make, and know precisely what I want to do with my guns so that they work for training, HD, plinking or whatever. I rarely pick the easy or cheap method because those usually involve tradeoffs that don’t work, or introduce compromises that I am not comfortable with.

Why buy a mount at all? I mean you are getting into the “must have it”, “gotta change it” mindset with that sort of talk. :wink: Just duct tape the light to the handguards, or use hose clamps. I’m sure you can see the fallacy of getting too KISS in your applications??

Again, I’ve tried many AR accessories and know just about what I want without having to feel comfortable by someone else’s review of my stuff. I only offer my perspective as a learning tool, not as guidance for what others should buy or use. I think I have explained that pretty clearly.

71

Most good lights, especially those designed as weapon lights have fairly thick aluminum bodies and are quite robust. They don’t break easy, even if you slam them around. the mounts that are worth using (i.e. not airsoft junk) will also be aluminum. So, in fact, the plastic standard handguards would be the weak point.