hey guys, i have a 5-10 year old bushmaster carbine with fixed stock,fixed carry handle, regular 16" barrel and standard a2 triangle front sight. i want to buy a bushmaster v match flattop upper that has the forward assist and ejection port cover already assembled (part#VUR). i want to mount optics but hate mounting on top of carry handle(tried it already). what tool(s) do i need from the bushmaster catalog to remove the barrel or anything else i may need to install this at home. i’m seeing a few here: heavy duty combination ar15 armorers wrench $ 22.50 part#1570 or armorers barrel wrench $11.95 part#rm-001. i already have a ton of regular wrenches and a good craftsman digital torque wrench good for 250 ft.lbs. also what can i expect and any tips or tricks to make this a smooth process?
Watch these Brownell’s videos.
Section 5.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?x=v&p=0&t=1&i=1103
Those videos are a great resource. Thanks!
Guy I know was in the same situation. He sent it to Grant at G&R Tac and he swapped the uppers out for a very small fee (the new upper was bought from Grant).
If you retain the FSB, you’ll want to intall a taller front sight post, which is what was done in the above case (again purchased at G&R). It cost less than $10.
If you’re going to do this as a one time job, just pay a small fee for someone else to do the work, and have it done right the first time. If you’re going to work on a lot of ARs, then get the tools to DIY.
You’ll also need vice blocks.
alright so still no clear answer here. can i do it at home with a barrel wrench? i live in nj, its hard to find gunsmiths around here and the one i did find dosnt want to work on any assalt type weapons because when the state police come he says they give him a hard time and start asking a lot of questions…unreal. SO i wanna just do it myself, its a one time deal. so the fewest tools i can get away with the better. help?
yes as long as you have a vise ,upper clamp ,barrel wrench,torque wrench:D
alright cool thanks warpig, can you give me a run down on a upper clamp? who what where how much?
http://www.adcofirearms.com/itemdetails_.cfm?inventorynumber=1626
2 different types here.
the barrel wrench you can pick up anywhere for about 10 bucks for a GI model
just take your time and read as much as you can ,the videos on the brownells site are dead on for the swap ,just remember 30FT/LBS on the barrel nut
bah- 100 bucks gets you all the tools you need to do whatever you want to any AR15. that’s chump change to be able to do all your own work. roll pin punch set, armorer’s wrench, torque wrench, grease, blue loctite. AND you know how to do it, for future builds.
bushmaster clamp
http://www.bushmaster.com/products.asp?cat=15
I got this from Iraqgunz(he is the man)
- Put the barrel in (complete) apply anti-seize to the threads (can use Loc-tite brand commonly found) and then tighten the barrel locking nut down (doesn’t need to be to torque specs) and then loosen. Do this one more time and then torque it down on the 3rd time. This is bascially to work the threads and assist in in not loosening down the road.
FYI- I don’t use a torque wrench as I have done enough of them and can do it by feel.
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When you start to get close to the torque point, you need to watch where your nut will end up to make sure that the gas tube will go in correctly. It will also take a little finesse. You kind of have to"use the force" to guide you on this. Put the gas tube in and tap in the roll pin.
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If the gas tube is a little crooked it’s OK because you can gently pry it left or right with a flat tip to get it straight. Put your bolt carrier w/o bolt in the upper and see how the bolt carrier key meets up with the gas tube.
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Headspace- the headspace has to do with the distance from the bolt face to the rear of the casing when it is seated in the chamber properly. It is important to check the headspace, especially if you aren’t using Colt/ Milspec parts. Bushamster now sells a “Field” headspace gauge for about 30.00. As far as I am concerned the TM only refers to the “Field” gauge and that is good enough for me.