I have been using Bill Rogers’ Bore Squeeg-e cleaning kits for several years. I’ve been well pleased with the overall performance of the bore cleaning compound.
I’m about out and need to reorder so I thought I would ask if any of you have comparative experience between the Rogers Bore Cleaning Compound and Blue Wonder?
Copper removal is what other cleaners will accomplish that CLP doesn’t do well.
That said, copper removal is not something that has to happen every cleaning. Your barrel will tell you when it is too coppered up when accuracy goes to shit.
With the Rogers products I literally put 6 drops on a nylon brush make 6 passes down the bore and then run a squeege-e - done. He has a weapons lube but I don’t use it.
I also use it on my M-77LE about every 100 rounds. Works for me.
I was at Rogers School when he filmed an infomercial thing for it. It was a hoot. But what stuck with me was how quickly a effectively he cleaned the bore of the pistol he was cleaning. So I got on board with the bore cleaner and the squeeg-e system.
I’d been reading on other forums and Blue Wonder kept coming up, hence my question.
You all need to try using Sharp Shoot Wipe out. I’ll run a bore snake down first a few times. Take a patch, put on the Sharp Shoot accelerator on it and run it down the bore once. Then take the Wipe out and shoot it down the bore. Fills up entire bore and chamber like shaving cream. Let sit for 60 minutes. Wipe clean with patches and that bore is clean as it gets. I then take some Hoppes MOLY and spray a little down bore. Wipe one patch through and done!
I use it on all my firearms and have excellent results.
The way Roger’s explained it (IIRC) he first started off looking for a way to remove copper fowling. He knew bench rest shooters had their own secret recipes and when he got to researching it he found a lot of them were using stuff that was toxic. So he approached a chemical guy and told him the problem. The guy said I can do that, how fast does it need to work.
I don’t recall how he came to develop all the other stuff. The video at the bottom of the linked page basically follows the format of the one he made while I was at his class, except he was using an M&P then and Ronnie Dodd was cutting up the whole time saying stuff like ‘but wait, there’s more…’
I just use the bore cleaner. I didn’t see that the other products saved me a whole lot of time.
With a bolt gun I put some of the cleaner around the lip of the chamber (about 4 to 6 drops) and pull through a nylon brush, I pull through a couple times, clean the brush, add another 4 to 6 drops and pull through a couple more times. Let it sit while I clean the bolt and then run the squeeg-e. I then put a couple drops of the oil de jour (Miltec-1, Fireclean, and Slip 2000 EWL have all been used) on a jagged patch and push it through from the chamber.
For the AR’s I work the chamber and extension with a toothbrush and star patches, then repeat the process as with the bolt gun. I’ll usually go about 500 rounds before cleaning an AR - pretty much about every two to three range sessions.
I have had VERY good results using Bore Tech Eliminator. The cleaning is very easy, and its a copper remover so you have to use aluminium jags etc. Three wet patches, several passes with a nylon brush, three more wet patches, let soak for 3-5 min. Dry patch until clean. I take the extra step of passing a patch with 90% iso alcohol followed by dry patches. Cold clean bore shots seem to have no detectable shift at 100 yards. I only bother to pass an oiled patch if I’m going to be storing it for a while w/o shooting.
For an AR with a chrome barrel, I tend to not care quite as much.
The best metallic fouling cleaner in my inventory is sweets 7.62. Ammonia based solvent with a nylon brush and the blue colored fouling pours out of your muzzle. However, it is a strong odor and I have only used it on my bolt rifles. Butches bore shine also works well but with less odor.
It has been my understanding that ammonia-based solvents, if left sitting in the bore for too long, can break down the chrome lining. I remember reading either on here or TOS that if you plugged the muzzle and filled the barrel with ammonia and let it sit overnight you could basically pour out the chrome lining the next morning. Now if none of this is true please enlighten me as ammonia-based solvents are some excellent bore cleaners but I shy away from them for this very reason.
For all of the expanding foam products, how much is entering the gas tube? Probably not worth worrying about as the product is likely compatable with the construction of the gas system components. But interesting…
Ammonia does not attack chrome.
Ammonia attacks copper. Copper is used on decorative chrome and nickel plating as a strike, ammonia will cause these to flake due to attack on the copper. I suspect people think chrome bores are also at risk.
I’m 99.99% sure it will do nothing, but I’m looking for something to test.
I’ve been told, by a chemist I asked, ammonium hydroxide above 10% will etch steel.
Not the same thing but a funny story - a farmer friend told me they used to give an outbuilding a dose of anhydrous to kill the critters in there. He said once they did it with his dad’s bass boat in there. Corroded every bit of chrome plated stuff on the boat.