Instead of mortaring you can try inserting something (such as your finger) in front of the BCG and pulling to the rear; maybe not right after firing a full mag, but at least now that the weapon has cooled down.
And +1 on lubing that sucker.
Bolt override tool, right? The Leatherman MUT has one, idk if you do or not.
Sure, a $100+ Leatherman MUT will do the job just as well as the butt-end of a piece of spent brass or a cartridge… 
I understand that. But when the equation is 6920 + Brown Bear. There’s NO DOUBT where the problem is.
Public SVC Announcement!
- Don’t mix brass and non-brass ammo without a serious cleaning between them.
- You have a Colt. Don’t shoot crap ammo through it!
- Lubricate your weapon!
- Jam goes on bread! It is called a MALFUNCTION!
C4
Well yeah not saying that someone would have to buy one to do it, I was more just confirming that is the operation and malfunction that the tool was designed for (at least in part).
While re-lubing, intorduce a patch of lube to the surfaces of the chamber, when using steel-case. Especially if going from steel to brass, but it’s simpler to just do it any time steel-case is being used.
Steel obdurates differently (steel-case proponents, please note that I didn’t say better/worse, but differently…), and more smut can get into the chamber.
A skim of lube can help with that, so if you generally run a lube patch through the bore, anyway, spin it along the length of and around in the chamber for a rotation or 5 before sending it all the way through the barrel. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve seen intermittent-to-chronic stuck round/case problems with steel ammo go away (the “given” in that equation being a known-good chamber, which yours should be…) with the simple addition of lube…EDIT: fluid, NOT grease!..to that particular spot.
The chances of the round going off from the act of mortaring it out fall in the realm of “possible” in the sense that something that occurs .00016283% of the time fits the description of “possible.”
Ah yes, correct.
Well, that was easy. All done, cleaned and well lubed before breakfast. One bang on the floor with the stock while pulling on the charging handle, and the round popped right out. The bullet had one scratch on it and no markings at all on the case. I’m sure it will go bang next time.
I could see nothing anywhere that looked abnormal. No markings on the bolt. The chamber, of course, was filthy. I’ve gone between brass and steel without cleaning between the brass and steel quite a bit for over 800 rounds and never had a problem. I’m well aware of cleaning the chamber after shooting steel and before shooting brass. I haven’t heard of shooting brass then steel without cleaning as a problem before. This is the only gun I have that I do this with. I have a Mini-14 and I will not shoot steel thru it. All my research before I bought this gun seemed to say shooting steel was ok, and it is a lot cheaper.
I guess one question that still puzzles me is that I was able to pull the trigger and get a click when the gun was obviously not in battery. I’m assuming that meant that the hammer fell on the firing pin as it felt and sounded just like dry firing the gun. I did not think that was supposed to happen when the gun was not fully in battery. What kept the round from going off out of battery?
The hammer just hit the rear edge of the lower skid on the bolt carrier. The firing pin can’t even reach the primer until the bolt carrier is fully forward, and therefore the bolt is locked.
I’ve been looking at and reading about Frog Lube for quite some time. I went ahead and ordered some this morning, both wax and liquid.
Points taken, tho I still have a brick of Brown Bear and I intend to use it. I do wonder if this would have happened with brass and I just happened to be shooting steel when it happened?
Thanks for your input. I’ve been well aware of cleaning the chamber after shooting steel before I bought the 6920, but I sort of wanted to see how the 6920 would handle it. I guess I got my answer. It handles it very well, but needs some TLC after shooting steel.
I let the chamber soak in Break Free this morning, then used a chamber brush on it. I will definitely be more meticulous about cleaning after shooting steel from now on.
Ok. Thanks. That makes sense.
I was wondering why it took 25 posts before somebody mentioned toast. 
Pretty much this.
I have found when using steel ammo, if you put some lube on a rag and wipe down the rounds they feed and extract 100 times better than with that white powdery finish from the factory on them.
Recent sensitivity training prevented me from making that comment.
Your sensitivity training actually worked? You must have been waterboarded. I’m so sorry.
Check the round and make sure its straight. When loading up a mag, I noticed a cartridge in which the bullet was crooked - had to turn the bullet right to notice. Something like that could definitely jelly up your gun.
:jester:
I liked you better when you were an asshole. 
At least we still have JSantoro, and markm for entertainment.
In actuality, machines have a variety of malfunctions. Getting jammed is just one of them. For example, when a cartridge is out of place and gets jammed inside the rifle, it’s a jammed cartridge. If a primer pops out and gets jammed up inside the BCG or action or trigger group, you have a jammed primer. Both are a type of jam and neither will go well with peanut butter. This isn’t to say every malfunction of your weapon is a jam, but jam isn’t just for toast
The round is straight as possible. Only one tiny scratch on the bullet forward of where it will make contact with the barrel. It should work fine.
I could not agree more. Thanks for your post.