The SPS stock leaves a lot to be desired. The stock is about as rigid as a Tuperware bowl. Get a new stock and float and bed the action and barrel. You first need to start with a stable platform. The trigger is not going to do this.
I agree on new stock. I have a Savage 10FCP in .308 which came with their new accustock. It was a decent shooter and got me through basic LE precision rifle class. I then upgraded to an HS Precision stock before the LE Scoped Rifle Operator class and it made a world of difference. Trigger control is going to make or break you more than the trigger itself. Maybe just have the trigger worked on by a good smith if you’re still set on a new trigger after going with the upgraded stock.
JrB is right about the trigger. You can get one reworked whole lot cheaper than buying a upgrade. Depending on the smith doing the work, the re-worked trigger can be very good. I have a factory Rem that has been re-worked and its great. Its no Jewel, but its a great little trigger now.
The Hogue stock is a major impediment to the performance of this rifle. I changed both the trigger (to a Timney) and the stock to a B&C Medalist before I fired the first shot through it. The stock trigger was really not that bad, but a tad heavy. But my vote is the Hogue has to go first!
That is a nice stock! You’ll love the trigger also.
They label stuff “tactical” because it sells. With games like Call of Duty, Battle Field, etc and Movies like Shooter, BlackHawk Down, and the new Act of Valor people (Mall Ninjas) are wanting tactical and mil-spec equipment. You would be surprised as to how many folks want tactical equipment.
I’m guilty of it, to some degree. I have an McMillan A5 tactical stock on my 308. Do I want to “Be Like Mike”? No, but I damn sure like the stock.
Oh, by the way. Be sure to bed and float the stock. Some folks do not necessarily think you have to, but I do this on all my factory and aftermarket stocks. It will indeed stabilize the stock and action giving you a better overall group.
B&C Medalist stocks aren’t the prettiest in terms of finish, but they are very functional. The aluminum bedding block locks up well with the receiver (at least in my case it does) and the barrel is already free-floated. Depending on how well your barreled action shoots and your skill level, you may never see a difference with skim bedding.
FWIW, wth the way my rifle is shooting (see link in signature), I’m in no hurry to do mine. I’m more likely to save up my lunch money for an AICS than dink around to see if I can squeeze a tiny bit more out of the B&C.
Here’s what I did with my B&C;
Look for rough edges in the barrel channel and the inletting for the bottom metal. I used a round file to gently smooth the edges of the inletting and a socket with sandpaper wrapped around it to take down any edges/imperfections in the barrel channel. It only takes a light touch with this!
Install the barreled action in the stock. Place the butt of the rifle on the floor and with the muzzle facing straight up, gradually & evenly tighten the action actions screws down to 45 inch pounds. You want the recoil lug fully/firmly seated against the front of the block while tightening the action screws.
Once the action is installed, verify that the barrel is not touching the stock by slipping a strip of paper into the channel. You should have clearance all the way up to an inch or so in front of the recoil lug (the contour of the barrel and channel at this point makes it difficult to get a strip of paper in without rubbing).
If anything, read up on bedding the scope base to the receiver and stress-free mounting of the scope. A few links worth a look (I used the Murphy technique, first link);
Invest in a few boxes of match ammo (I used Federal Gold Medal Match 168 grain), shoot off a bench with the rifle fully supported with bags front and rear and see how it does.
Note - if you have never shot “tiny groups” off a bench before, you may want to find a friend who has and have them shoot it too. Once you get into the sub .75 MOA range, shooting technique plays a huge role. If you know anyone who is into benchrest shooting, they’d be a good person to test drive your rifle to help evaluate its accuracy potential.
Unless you get a bad sample from Remington, you should end up with a rifle that shoots sub-MOA all day long with good ammo and technique.
Point number 2 is a very interesting point and a good idea. You would be very surprised how much your action moves in your stock. In less than 1000 rounds, my pillars, minus the bedding, where beaten into a oval shape from the action bouncing back in the stock. Very surprising to me. Point number 2 could help minimize this, if when you tightened the screws, it didn’t move the action forward. This is the same philosophy as mounting your scope. Pretty cool.
One of the first things I first looked at when placing the action in the stock was to first get the lug seated firmly against the block, then look through the stock action screw holes with a flashlight to see of the tappings in the receiver were centered. I then ran just the action screws in (no bottom metal) a few turns to see of they rode straight through, which they did. Verifying the fit, I figured the chance of the reciever shifting when tightening the screws was minimal. Also, I kept a little downward pressure on the action when tightening the screws by pushing down on the barrel. Once the screws are torqued down, I believe there should be enough traction between the block and the action to keep it from moving.
I think as long as (1) there is no contact between the barrel and channel; (2) the lug is in firm contact with the block; (3) everything lines up as above and (4) the screws are then properly torqued with pressure held on the action, the results from the B&C should be pretty good.
The B&C Medalist stocks are a bit crude in construction and finish, but functionally I see no reason why they can’t work well if a Manners, McMillan, AICS, etc. are not in the budget.
First of all… thanks for all the information shared in this post. I’m getting my 700 SPS Tac in .223 on Wednesday and been asking lots of the questions answered here.
I’m going with a SWFA SS 10x42mm on TPS steel 0 moa mount with TPS steel super low rings and Harris bi-pod. I know my next upgrade will be the stock, but budget is a serious consideration right now…
Yeah just talked to them and finalized my online order. Great CS so far… wanted to take advantage of the sale price which ends today. Ordered the Black with grey spiderweb.
Hindsight being 20/20, I’d put the money into ammo and training before I worried about any upgrades.
That being said, you’d be well ahead of the game to go Manners with a mini chassis in the stock pattern of your choice, or with an AICS with viper skins…(order the combo from Mile High Shooting). My preference is for the AICS/ViperSkin combo, and my 3 competition rifles all sport it.
Both stocks are bolt in, torque to spec, and go about your business. I see no practical difference if the rifle is completely pillar bed vs torqued into a chassis. The bonus to both is that you’ll have a useable DBM system as well.
Save the money for a Timney as your next upgrade, assuming you have optics/mount combos squared away…tough to hit what you can’t see.