just recently started loading .223
for m4 ish
at the suggestion of friend… i didn’t chamfer or deburr or crimp i haven’t had any feed issues
any pros or cons ?
If you don’t trim, you can get away with not chamfering and deburring. However, if you want to make more accurate reloads, you’ll need to prepare the cases so that they’re as alike as possible. There are many things that you can do such as sorting cases by brand and even lot, uniforming the primer pockets, deburring the flash holes, trimming sized cases to the same length, weight sorting sized and trimmed cases, etc. It’s all a matter of how much effort you want to put in to what you’re doing and what you want the results to be. In regard to your question, trimming cases to the same length will make the amount of force that is required to push the bullets from the cases more consistent. All else being equal, this will decrease the average group size. Of course if you trim, you’ll need to chamfer and deburr as well. Crimping is not necessary so long as you have enough tension in the neck to hold the bullet. But, crimping can also increase and make the amount of force required to push bullets from the cases more consistent. If you roll crimp, uniform trim lengths are a must. I personally use a Lee Factory Crimp die when loading 223Rem (aka 5.56x45). As the name suggests, it provides a crimp that is more like you’d find on factory ammo.
Depends on how you trim. If you use a hand pr slow turning trimmer you will need to. I use the Dillon trimmer which is a 5-7k rpm carbide blade. It cuts cleanly and leaves no burs to take off. I don’t bother with chamfer and debur.
Giraud trimmer (however you spell it) also has those steps built in I believe.
I definitely trim my brass, well I have been trimmed this time. I’ve done all the brass prep operations ad nausea, up to measuring total measuring and sorting indicated run out of brass, short of neck turning/ doughnuts have pretty much did it all for .308.
was primarily interested if there are any negative effects of not chamfering deburring? ( Which unfortunately I do manually) reliability, chamber damage,…?
I would be using the Lee crimp/ taper die. Wouldn’t you get a smoother transition and possibly more consistent “Weld” if you did chamfer and de-bur?
does anyone have chrono data for crimped vs non crimped, crimped with debur chamfer vs crimped with straight cut?
I suppose as long as round Is reliable, chambering and getting consistent results chamfer in debur isn’t that important, in the 100 yard or lesser arena, but when reaching out or trying to get tiny shot groups it is more important
I use a Wilson trimmer. I do not chamfer or debur. No noticeable effects.
My Dillon trimmer does leave a ring on the inside of .223 brass if it’s trimmed more than ~7 or 8 thousands, which is often the case to get it below max.
I use that Possum piece of shit. And there’s no way I could get away without chamfering and deburring.
I try to use brass that doesn’t need trimming as much as possible, and avoid the whole nightmare.
I solved the problem with a Giraud trimmer.
Trim, chamfer, and debur all in one step … and it’s done in about 2 seconds.
I use a Lee trimmer and it leaves a burr so after I pull the trimmer I give the mouth a quick touch with their deburring tool. It works pretty well.
You should be crimping, especially with a semi-auto in order to prevent bullet setback issues.
Well (now that I’m informed on this topic) you should actually check your neck tension provided by your dies and see what you’re getting. A crimp is just going to compensate for poor neck tension.
I have good neck tension and I crimp. Guess what! No setback issues!! 
The biggest issue is that not all necks are uniform thickness so you may get different tension from one piece of brass to the next when using the same die. A little crimp is just added insurance.
I completely agree.
How much is good neck tension, .002, .003?? when you mention good neck tension how much is good.
I’m using the same head stamped of Lake City brass, there is a small level of consistency.
Given that all brass is not created equal/ neck wall thickness. there will be inconsistent neck tension. it gets more complicated by adding crimp and further increasing neck tension.
I’m trying to avoid, measuring necks and sorting brass… to spend more time at the range.
my next day shooting i’m going to test crimped vs non crimped (trimmed no chamfer debur)
if I get close 2 MOA, with reliability I’ll stop messing with it.
for my long-range heavier pills, SPR -ish load, I’ll have to go SEMI-bench rest.
“Kirk Lazarus: Everybody knows you never go full retard.”