I agree with some of your post but why do you think the Larue is a more secure mount? To me the weight of the Larue is a negative.
I’m looking forward to the FSP model, after seeing this thread. I decided to try out a C4 rail when Rainier had the 7" standard carbine model on sale for Black Friday. I’ve got a DD RISII on another rifle, and it’s very nice, but I’m sold on the Centurion rails now. Better price, mounts up securely using a standard barrel nut, and feels every bit as good in the hand, IMO.
The LT is using a custom barrel nut, the C4 is mounting off the stock one. It’s arguably the best that does so (the older TROY MRF units also do, but those are heavy and required some updates to really feel solid), so for this application they’re the best, especially since LT doesn’t offer any FSP variants.
Well, guess I will hold off on buying the DD FSP now.
Regarding the weight, the Larue is heavier but not by much…if weight is top priority then I guess it’s a problem but then there are other options that are much lighter than either.
Regarding the mounting:
The Larue has a barrel nut that is captured between the rail and a ring that threads onto the rail. Once the ring is tight, the rail can’t shift. There is an additional piece that locks the ring in place, but even without that the rail is indexed to the barrel nut so the only way it could loosen is if the ring comes loose. Add the piece that locks the ring, which uses two screws, and the rail can’t come loose or move until both of those screws come loose and the ring comes loose.
The Centurion is clamping two halves around the standard barrel nut. This is done with four screws, and if any of the four screws come loose the rail can shift on the barrel nut. I’m not saying it’s a bad design, but in my opinion it’s just not as robust. And it may not ever cause a problem, I just like a mounting system that is designed to have little chance of coming loose as a priority over ease of installation. Again, this is just my humble opinion.
ETA: Sorry to drag this into this thread as it really is unrelated to the topic…
snakedoctor,
I think those are the Heat Grip CT gloves that were made by: Southwest Motorsports. Camelbak bought out SWMS a few yrs ago; they still produce the gloves with some updates.
/threadjack
You do know the Centurion rail has two anti-rotation tabs, right?
Yep, and they have nothing to do with what I’m talking about.
After dealing with some other bolt-up/clamp-on designs of other products (rifle related and not) I can see why you might be skeptical of the design. The bolts are actually pretty secure on the Centurion rails. Once they are in about half-way, there is resistance the rest of the way in. I’m not sure if it is from a thread locker applied to the internal thread inserts or some feature of the inserts’ design, but I can’t see them coming loose like other designs where the bolts don’t get truly snug until their final torquing.
And it’s finally available: At Rainier.
Oh, wow. Do I need one or two?
Do these take a different barrel nut? I though they used the existing nut. Reason I ask is the “barrel nut sold seperately” in the Rainer add.
Yeah, I’m kinda pissed, as I just (within a week) ordered the FSB cut carbine rail. I got it for like $100 less than the 12" FSB cut, but still. . .
I asked this question to Rainier yesterday. It takes the standard barrel nut that is already part of the delta ring setup.
It’s your choice to dremel and cut off the delta ring,… or to sanely remove the gas tube, barrel nut and delta ring, then just replace the nut and tube and go about mounting the rail. No “new” or “extra” nut needed.
So I bought one. SUPER excited! It can’t get here fast enough.
But I do still wonder if the bayonet lug will need to be cut off the FSB…?
And I’ve been lurking for a review of the fitment of a Surefire X300 at 12 O’clock on the FSP 12.0. Anybody have experience with that?
Thanks Mike, that is a plus as I have no desire to fight with BCM taper pins again any time soon.
I have caveman skills when it comes to working on anything. I cut the delta off with a grinder and cut/pulled the hand guard cap out from under the FSB. The rail locks up SOLID.
I had reservations about the rail when I first purchased it, regarding the way it mounts. The owner at Centurion promised me I would like it. I’m glad I took his word for it. I mark my bolts to know if they move from where they were torqued to, but they never move.
I prefer the Centurion to the Omega I had on a previous rifle. Light, solid rails.
Could you expound on this, kVon?
I felt movement in the Omega when pulling on my VFG. If I have to remove the centurion, I just loosen the bolts and remove it. I prefer that, rather than messing with the 4 tiny Allen screws that clamp into the barrel nut on the Omega. It is awkward, with the provided wrench, to tighten and loosen them.
I will not say the Omega mounts poorly, I just prefer the Centurion. I liked the Omega until I tried the Centurion. It’s just preference.
The thing I liked better on the Omega was the slick surface and the rotation limiting QD sockets.
I’m in the same camp here. I had a DD Omega 9" on my middy and while it is a good rail it does not compare to the mounting method of the Centurion rail. The bolts on the centurion rail are much stronger, and don’t rely on indexing to the barrel nut. Furthermore the anti rotation tabs and the way the rail locks onto the stock barrel nut make the Centurion rail feel and appear far stouter than the Omega. I got rid of my Omega and have not looked back.
Agreed. Centurion makes excellent kit, and Monty LeClair is top-notch. Larry Vickers said Monty is one of the most “switched on” operators in the Special Ops community, and he is absolutely right.