I am installing a QD end plate on my Colt and am need of some advice. The tools I used to get it off was the hammerhead tool with the lower secured in a Magpul Bev Block/vise. This was no issue. As far as putting it back together, I have a torque wrench and will use loctite C5A. My concern is with how the lower is secured in the bev block…would applying the proper torque spec cause any harm using this combo?
And why are you using Lotite? A castle nut should have an appropriate anti-seize compond applied, torqued to spec and staked in two places.
I not seeing how a Bev block and Hammerhead combo would harm anything.
Loctite C5A is anti seize, not threadlocker. I was more worried about possible stress or flex to the lower.
Oops, duh, my apology.
Torque spec is 40 ft. Lbs plus or minus 2, it’s not a lot of torque. I’ve never used a Bev block to secure a lower, but if it secures through the mag well it should be fine. Just go slow, and stop if you feel like damage is being done.
Yes it will be secured through the magwell.
I’m sure there was some engineering used to determine 40 foot pounds.
Essentially the castle nut functions as a jam nut to hold the receiver extension in place with the end plate limiting rotation off the RE.
In my view, that has always seemed more than is needed for the assembly, especially considering it is staked and the old style retainers were not.
Make sure you correct for the rotational twist. I have stripped threads on at least two tubes because I’m an idiot.
For example, if using a Bev Block, put a stock on it and hold it square while you tighten it. Alternatively, if using a jig for the tube (i.e. the Reaction Block) then you must hold the lower/pistol grip.
I lock the lower between my knees and crank it down. I’ve not had one come loose yet. Ymmv.
I just snug it up pretty tight, and stake.
Works well…
Bev block will be fine. A magwell holder will also work just fine. Just support it with ur hard while doing s proper torque. And use the anti seize. And stake in 2 places. It will be good. You would be surprised how many top manufacturers for properly torque the castle nut
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Same here. Never had. onetime loose.
Same here.
Cheers, Steve
I never used a torque wrench, I just use a good quality armorers wrench and tighten it down as hard as I can and stake it twice.
The magpul block worked fine. I torqued it properly then staked it. Thank you all for the advice.
For everyone who has never seen it come loose, I have. I actually called Iraqguns and spoke to him about it. It is a bad ju-ju deal when it happens. Your gun is 100% down, and you’re out of the fight. Guess I’m saying: tighten em up, and stake them well.
I don’t understand how your gun goes 100% down, guaranteed (at least that what it sounds like you are saying).
I understand if it comes loose and allows your receiver extension to rotate a completish revolution you might get the buffer detent and spring into place as debris that could potentially hang something up.
You also might lose your rear take down pin detent and spring if the end plate is turned enough.
But none of those are warstoppers.
What am I missing?
Buffer could bind, retainer pin or parts can bind up fcg. That said, i had a gun that loosened. Checking every couple mags worked until i upgraded the buffer and tube and got a wrench.
The tighter, the more rounds until it comes loose. Its now staked.
I found the tip of my broken retaining pin inside the trigger group, it stopped the gun from working, it didn’t take long for the broken part to end up in the only cavity it could find. This wasn’t a result of an unstaked castle nut, but the effect would have been the same or worse, the buffer retaining pin in its entirely, plus the spring, would have been a bigger problem than the tip of the retaining pin.
I believe Iraqgunz and Ash Hess (author of the latest TM) on the importance of torquing the castle nut properly and staking it in two places. My own experience with unstaked castle nuts and old style locking rings that can’t be staked had taught me as much.
Little things are important. Staking shouldn’t be considered a little thing.
The slew of end plate and nut combination products that go out of their way so no staking is necessary are not a step forward in my opinion, unless you need to swap out your RE all the time.