used to cast .38, .45acp, .44spl. etc in the 70’s. also some .308. we used wheel weights and added tin(?) to the mix to harden it up i guess. got a lotta wheelweights and am thinking about casting some .45acp, .40cal, .44mag/spec. again. why, i don’t know as the lazercast bullets i get are superb. anyway…seems like i read recently that at .45acp velocitys nothing but the wheel weights and some flux is needed and no leading will occur. i don’t believe that as was always trying to get the damn stuff outta the bbls. did we get the tin from rolls of solder? used some linotype but was hard to get. anyway, anyone that is into this i would appreciate the advice. thanks!
Based on what I have read on castboolits.com, you can make bullets using only wheel weights. Smelting and using a cold water quench are two of the steps that are used to get good boolits.
The tin does contributes to hardness but not to a relative degree. Rather it lowers the surface tension of the melt facilitating the mold filling our correctly.
With most handgun ammunition, as well as low velocity rifle rounds, WW usually work well. I have not sweetened my WW with tin because I have not needed to. Tin traditionally has been available as solder, but I cannot comment with authority.
I also suggest doing some reading over at http://castboolits.gunloads.com/.
If swagged lead works then wheel weights are fine. They are probably overly hard for 45 ACP velocities. I sold all my casting equipment because it takes alot of time and I’d rather shoot than cast. Good luck and have fun.
I am also using straight wheel weights for 950 fps and below loads in .38, .45acp and .45 Colt. In my experience the bullet lube matters too.I am currently using Lyman Super Moly for all my handguns and am happy with the results.
A while back there was a guy selling linotype on Ebay pretty cheap. I think I bought 30 or so pounds from him. He was using one of those pre paid USPS mailing boxes for shipping. I would say he got the best of them on that one.
(I only use linotype in a .218 Bee, so that should last a long, long time.)
HD
Wheel weights will work fine in terms of hardness. Adding tin will allow the metal to flow better and harden it some as well. Wheel weights plus 2% tim, from bar tin or 95/5 solder will work well. Harding the bullets by quenching in water will make them harder but might also make them hard enough to lead the bore. Sounds crazy buts its true.
Wanna have mad knowledge about casting…buy a book by Veral Smith of L.B.T., use the google foo. His lube rules, nothing comes close to it.
Best of luck
Matt
I agree with Matt, you can make your bullets too hard for your application. “hardcast” has become a buzz word and many times not needed. I had to learn the hard way, which seems to be the only way I learn sometimes.
+1 on Veral’s book too.
HD
i hope “hardcast” doesn’t equal " lazercast" cause i got several thousand of their bullets and like em a lot.