Guys, if you have a series 80 1911, and want a series 70 version, can it be modified? If so, how difficult is it change if you can change it?
Are most of the custom guns today series 70 style guns?
You can remove the firing pin block components with impunity, and it’s a simple enough thing to do at home, but the lingering question is “why?” Colt’s system is unobtrusive, and it works well. Sure, I get the whole “more parts in the gun” argument, and some will still protest that it compromises the trigger (though this is something of a hollow argument), but it is highly unikely that you will ever have problems with it, and if you’re not having problems, what is the point of removing it? Do as you wish, of course, but as safety systems go, Colt’s is probably the best of the lot, and you stand to lose nothing with the status quo.
Most customs today are indeed built without drop safeties, though at least part of this is related to the fact that most of these systems are proprietary. This means that manufacturers would have to pay more to add a certain complexity to the gun, and they would likely have less control over those components, which runs contrary to the whole point of building a premium 1911 in-house to begin with. The underwriting logic is not necessarily that these systems suck (though some do), but rather that that are not really required, as Old Slabsides has done quite well without them for the past century.
Bottom line? I probably wouldn’t modify a Series 80 Colt, but if you’re looking at Browns and Wilsons, etc., you’re not going to have to worry about this, as the systems are not present on the custom/semi-custom lines.
AC
You can but I am with Army Chief as “to what end” ? 
(By the way, the original “Series 70” designation has nothing to do with a safety system. ;))
Pappabear, is this a project or just wondering?
You can remove them, but its not that simple.
You will need a spacer for the receiver, to keep the parts from wandering side to side.
There will be an empty hole left in the slide, that not only is an entry point for debris, but has also been reported as being prone to peening and cracking, causing its own issues.
Every modern semi-auto has a “Drop safety”, so I do not see the issue.
I spoke to a few gunsmiths about this, including Ed Vandenberg, Ken Elmore, and some DOE armorers(At one time, at least one site issued bone stock SS series 80 Colts to their SRT), they all commented the same. Series 80 is not an issue, & they do not compromise the trigger quality, if the smith knows what he is doing.
In all the Colt series 80’s I’ve owned over the years, i removed the parts from one gun, and I never could tell the difference. And, I’m contemplating replacing the parts, if I ever start shooting the gun again.
Bob
The firing pin blocks that I have worked with did nothing to help or hurt the feel of the trigger mechanism as long as they were fitted correctly. Most of the samples I see now are stamped and tend to be very rough around the edges. If you spend a few minutes on them and get them work smoothly then there really is no issue.
My experience with removing them makes me agree with Bob. You will need to add the spacer to keep the hammer from drifting from side to side.
You can remove it, but why buy the risk? If you feel it is a problem, I would suggest you have it re-worked, try swapping to some high quality TIN parts (see link below) of just go with a gun that doesn’t have the FP block.
http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=720000-1093363046
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=CS0003
I posted about my Colt rail gun having problems after a trigger job/ reliability job. Nelson Ford did the work and fixed it, no problem. Said he had seen it twice in 24 years. And told me not to worry, but what do I do, I WORRY.
I have maybe 400 rounds through it since then, no issues. Just bugs me a little so I thought I would ask.
Good. Dont remove it. I have no real hate or love for it. But all the others are right.
I guess I missed you post about the rail gun. Care to give me the cliff notes of how a 80 drop safety flew the coop?
Sorry for the OT? But is the drop safety in a Springfield the same as in a colt? Thanks
What I call a drop safety is a firing pin safety. My spingfield did not have one.
Good cleanup on this one, Bob. I was in a rush and didn’t go into that level of detail, but in retrospect, these points needed to be made; especially WRT the spacer issue.
AC
Aside from what Bob posted, your initial post is spot on. For the most part, the Series 80 set up isn’t something one needs to worry about as opposed to the Swartz set-up in the Kimbers. It truly is a non-issue.
H
No worries;)
Hilton Yam has said that a series 80, in a Colt, is the most reliable 1911 firing pin safety available, and is the way to go, if you are mandated to use one, etc.
Doc Roberts, has noted issues with them in severe conditions, such as surf.
But, the overwhelming majority of people who disparage the series 80 system, are they types of 1911 fanatics, that we’ve all grown tired of, they usually despise anything that looks substantially different from what left Hartford circa 1943, or at worst what Jeff Cooper would approve of.
Bob
I’ve had firing pin safety problems also with a series 80. That problem and a squib/buldged barrel in my GC started me on a search for information on the 1911 and a pistolsmithing course.
I’ve had 3 Series 80 Colts. One is stock, the second, a GC w/a 2.25 trigger with standard Colt Parts and an intact series 80 system. The 3rd is an Officers Model that I had problems with following a hacks’ trigger job which prompted some research and schooling.
During my search for information, I found a few threads on 1911forum about checking and timing a series 80 system. What they all boil down to is that once the slack is pulled out of the trigger and you are begining to load the trigger, the system should be released allowing the firing pin to be pushed foward with a punch.
If not there are a few methods discussed as how to advance the levers timing either by installing a Colt GC Firing Pin Safety Lever Part # SP56852T available only from Colt’s Custom Shop, reforging the existing trigger bar lever or tig welding a bead on one of the levers and fitting it.
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=172204&highlight=safety+lever
http://www.coltsmfg.com/ShopOnline/tabid/62/CatID/9/Default.aspx
On the two pistols with trigger work that I own, the GC came with the GC firing pin plunger lever and has not faultered to date. The Officers model (after the hack was through with it) I refit the sear and hammer and re-timed the firing pin safety by forging. I have since aquired a few extra GC levers for future work but if the GC lever doesn’t work your only option is forging or TIG welding. Forging was not that difficult and has proven reliable to date.
Of the two with trigger work, you can not tell by the trigger pull if the systems are there. The biggest thing I think is that if you are going to have trigger work performed on a Series 80, make sure the person has the experiance to make it reliable.
I had a few customs that I removed the series 80 parts from. Then I had a very nice officers model that I carried (WHY GOD WHY DID I SELL IT) that I left the parts in. You know what, it ran fine. The trigger was fine. Leave it in. I have a Rail Gun right now that I have absolutely no intention of tinkering with. I like having a drop saftey.
I take them out as and leave them out the series 80 parts are a pain in the but to put back when you clean the 1911 (if you ever clean)
I have a couple of series 80 1911s and probably won’t ever get another one.
Mike
No, it does not have the system colt has. Instead they use a lighter firing pin (titanium I believe) and use a heavier spring so the firing pin itself can not build up enough momentum to set off a primer if it is dropped. I believe it is also a .38 super firing pin as opposed to the wider .45 firing pin.
I must say, you sound very pompous. You sir, do not speak for me.
Mike
More flimsly little parts doesn’t seem like a good solution to anything to me.
Smith and Wesson uses a titanium firing pin in at least one 1911 model for drop test safety and that’s a much better solution IMO- simple beauty in one part doing the job of 4-5. The engineer that “Solved” that problem really must have been a jackass. It was probably saving someone a couple dollars to do it with stamped parts and a spring modified firing pin stop.
For 30 years Colt’s Series 80 system has proven itself reliable. Properly assembled and not tampered with, it adds very little to the trigger pull that can be felt by the average user.
Name any popular modern semiautomatic handgun design that doesn’t use some sort of firing pin/striker safety.