Calculating Holdovers with this Reticle

I’m still super new to shooting through a scope. And I was wondering if anybody could help me out with calculating holdovers with this reticle at two different zeros with two different ammo types? Or is there an app I can download or something that helps calculate this stuff? Basically, if center dot is zeroed for 100 yards or 50/200 yards, what does each 1/2 mil and whole mil mark represent for other distances @ 6x mag?

Ammo 1: MK262, 77gr OTM
Ammo 2: XM193, 55gr

Zero 1: 100 yard
Zero 2: 50/200 yard

Something like this, but for the ammo and zeros I’m using?

Here’s the reticle PDF: http://www.kahles.at/fileadmin/kahles/Absehen/USA/K16i_1-6_Sm1.pdf

Download iStrelok for your smartphone, ante up for the full version, it has this reticle and many others. You will need the ballistic coefficient(BC) of bullet and guestimate your muzzle velocity. It will tell you every hold at every power for any cartridge you plug in.

Krampus

Awesome, thanks. You’re my hero.

I’m new to scopes and found out about the Strelok app. Strelok Plus is great. It even has the reticle of the majority of scopes. Once you’ve inputted the information, it will actually show what the sight picture looks like at a given range and target. It will also calculate clicks for whatever your scope is set to MOA, MIL etc. It correctly calculated MOA/clicks on my Leatherwood CMR atop my 16 in. Spikes Middy with BCM KMR. I was hitting steel out to 540 yds shooting 62 gr XTAC. A first for me!

You need to buy or borrow and chrono if you really want to get good results. Factory provided MVs are usually obtained with much longer barrels than most of us shoot with. Relative to Kahles scopes chronos are fairly cheap.

Good luck

Nick

Got the app. Thanks!

Will see what I can do about a chrono. But it’s not like I’m gonna spend time chrono’ing my ammo every time I shoot. So couldn’t I just use a velocity that others are getting from same barrel and same ammo?

Ammo co’s publish barrel length for data, adjust for your length, check to see what others are getting, plug in sensible data. You can guess within 5% and that is fine unless you are shooting long distance and/or precision. With a 200/zero, If I change my MV by 5% it changes my POI at 300 < 1", 400 < 4".

Ex. 24" .223 Barrel is 3200 fps, every inch shorter will reduce fps by:
23" 40
22" 40
21" 45
20" 45
19" 50
18" 50
17" 55
16" 55
15" 60
14" 60

You can get a suitable chrono for $100, just use it in the shade or cloudy days with a reasonable sample size.

Krampus

In my opinion, you’re approaching this from the wrong direction.

I prefer to know my holds for specific distances, and then work out intermediate holds.

Jack Leuba
Military/Govt Product Liaison
Knight’s Armament Company

Director of Shooting Stuff
F2S Consulting

+1. Since you have a reticle with a mil ranging system, learn the system to determine range. Zero at 100 meters. Shoot at various ranges (I.e. 200m, 300m, etc.) with your load of choice and determine drop at each range. Once done, range the target, determine the drop in mils and either use the holdover method using the mil scale in the reticle or dial the drop with the scopes elevation knob and use the reticle’s center aiming point.

All the data he needs will be in the iStrelok ballistic table. From there he will have a complete overview and can make educated decisions based on his priorities. He can skip the hunting and pecking stage and just confirm it on the range. If he wants specific yardages for a few holds he can modify his zero, change cartridges, roll his own, change barrel length, change mount height or spin the dials. The ideal alternative would be to settle on one cartridge and barrel length and have Kahles fabricate a custom reticle for his preferred holds.

Example

I entered the Kahles K16i SM1 to an existing rifle/cartridge profile with a 100/zero and got the following data:

Hash–Actual--------Hold designation------POI difference-------MRAD Hold Designated
.5------210 yd---------200/225---------------.68"/ 1.2"-----------.4/.6
1-------271------------250/275----------------2.3"/~“---------.8/1.0
1.5-----320------------300/325----------------3.3”/
~“---------1.3/1.5
2-------364------------350/375----------------3.3”/2.4"-----------1.8/2.1
2.5-----403--------------400-------------------~----------------2.4
3-------439------------425/450----------------4.9"/3.5"-----------2.8/3.2
3.5-----472--------------475-------------------
~----------------3.5
4-------502--------------500-------------------~~~----------------4.0

I would just approximate above/below hash a little if POI is not acceptable. Compounding imprecision can make ranging frustrating so get your ducks in a row, then learn to range instead of chasing your tail. Ranging a large, high contrast, immobile, perpendicular plane, target of known size at midrange is easy enough. In a different scenario you will range —> shoot —> adjust —> shoot, until you develop more skill.

Krampus

Thanks for the info!

~~Cheat Sheet ~~ Better to have it and not need it…

.5…200/225
1…250/275
1.5..300/325
2…350/375
2.5…400
3…425/450
3.5…475
4…500

Exact

/ Exact Split

.1 Adjustment

.2 Adjustment

Krampus

Trying to use a Mil reticle like a BDC reticle is going to be frustrating.
If you want a “put the target here” reticle, a purpose-built BDC is going to serve you better.
The utility of a mil reticle is in precision and rapid ranging.

The above reticle is going to be ok out to about 300 meters using holds, but will rapidly diminish past that, requiring the user to either dial elevation and hold wind, or spend a lot more time guesstimating and celebrating luck than gaining real data (and data is the core need for successful, repeatable long range shooting).

Here are reticles that work out at 600-1,000m:
H27D

*Not the best representation, there is a very clear cross-hair in the center of the circle

H59

Notice that the main difference with these from the above is that they have lateral indicators. These are really important. So important, that the H58 (the previous champ in long-range “tactical” shooting) was changed in only 2 ways to make the H59; the primary intersection was changed to a floating dot, and an additional mil was added to the horizontal “christmas-tree” stadia. Why? The ever-present variable of the precision tactical shooter: Wind.
It is really important to have a consistent aiming reference, and that extra mil of reference makes shooting in the already demanding conditions of a 25 mph cross-wind significantly less miserable, even at moderate distances.
Only under the most calm of conditions will a reticle without distinct wind holds be useful past 300 meters or so. And let me be perfectly clear: that’s just fine for most users, that will rarely if ever actually shoot at 300 meters. They just learn that a 100 meter zero will put you about 1 mil low at 250, 1.5 mils at 300, and just a few inches low from 150 to just under 250 which is just a simple center reticle hold-over. Your reticle will do that very, very well.

As I said before, once you get past 350 or so, environmental factors will override the utility of the simple reticle. A 10 mph wind from left to right will push you about 1.5 mils right at 450. Yes, you can estimate about where you need to hold, but you will be hard pressed to make repeatable fine changes to that hold. The importance of this is data tracking so that you can take those numbers, log them, and re-use them for greater accuracy. It’s hard to learn if you don’t know what you did right, what you did wrong, and how to replicate success while avoiding failure.

Good contemporary BDC reticles take this into account:

Why would anyone bother with a mil reticle if a BDC reticle answers the mail?
Frankly, most people will be happier with a BDC than with a mil reticle.
Going to a mil reticle like the H27D, or H59 above will enable enhanced precision at distance in practical conditions using holds, but it requires an investment in hardware, software, and time.

that’s just fine for most users, that will rarely if ever actually shoot at 300 meters. They just learn that a 100 meter zero will put you about 1 mil low at 250, 1.5 mils at 300, and just a few inches low from 150 to just under 250 which is just a simple center reticle hold-over. Your reticle will do that very, very well.

Thanks for the info, very helpful. :slight_smile: The above quote applies to me. I guess application is important here. I’m not a soldier or a hunter. So I’m not shooting at unknown distances “in the moment.” The shooting ranges available to me in my area only go out to 200 yards. And this scope/reticle I have is more like a glorified 6x RDS. The turrets are capped and not really intended to be used for dialing in elevation/windage on the fly. They are more of a “set and forget” type of thing.

I was simply curious as to what some holds would be, so I can get a better understanding of the MIL system’s relationship with distance and POI. The app that was suggested is pretty helpful and helps me understand the MIL system a little better as I’m a visual thinker.

I just shoot for fun as a hobby. 99% of my shooting happens at 100 yards, as that is what is available to me. In the future if I am shooting at longer distances and not on a puprose-built shooting range with clearly delineated target distances, I’ll probably invest in a different scope with a reticle better suited for that application. :slight_smile:

I’m envious of those of you who have access to shooting spots out in the open on public land or wherever it is y’all shoot where you have more options. Unfortunately, in San Francisco my options are very limited.

Uhhhhhh…

This isn’t an LRT scope it’s a close/Mid/3gun 1-6x with a fabulous 1x and it will be fine out to 500 yards. You have to dial high/full wind for LR, that sucks. The reticle isn’t clogged up for tight stuff, that doesn’t suck. You are not married to the BDC ballistics/environment, that doesn’t suck.

OP, enjoy your $2500 scope but keep in mind that if you want to devastate a prairie dog colony in the shortest amount of time you will be better served by a different scope.

Krampus

I can’t tell if you’re talking to me or not with this. But I understand all that already… Are you responding to my last post or to Failure2Stop’s?

OP, enjoy your $2500 scope but keep in mind that if you want to devastate a prairie dog colony in the shortest amount of time you will be better served by a different scope.

Huh? Not sure what gave you the impression I want to do anything remotely close to that.

Apologies, OP dismiss that previous post. Of course you would look into a different optic. You would choose a sensible optic for your purpose.

Krampus

Ah ok, I was confused for a sec. haha

Re-read what F2S tried to say.

What he was talking about is very important. Wind can have effects even at 100. The ACOG reticle is a BDC type, but still failed to be useable in windy environments. Even with Strelok. BTDT.

BDC’s are garbage. Go with a Scope in either MOA/MOA or MIL/MIL where your Turret Adjustments match your Reticle (your preference may vary, I prefer the Milliradian), and that you can Dial and/or Hold (under/over/windage) with.

FYI Horus (and horus type) reticles are great if you don’t want to touch your turrets and just use the Reticle for everything. This may be an issue for some as a Horus reticle will normally be in the FFP, which in some cases if not most, can be completely worthless in the Lower Power Mag. Ranges. (1-6x), unless accopanied by a Red Dot. ie - Mk 6 1-6x CMR