This is my first AR build and i wanted to get some input.
Black Rain Ordnance Upper and Lower
Addax Tactical 16" Mid Barrel 1:8
Addax Tactical BCG
Wilson Combat trigger
Troy Battle Sights
Primary Weapons FFC
Magpul CTR stock
I do have one question with a mid barrel and a 9" Hand guard does a low pro gas block have to be used?
Welcome to the forum. None of us will be able to help you until you state your use(s) for this build, goals, budget. Although I’d guess you have no budget as you will have around $600 wrapped up in just the upper and lower receiver…I’m going to jump the gun and say you can build a lot better for a lot less. Save money for sights, optic, mags, ammo, and classes/practice time.
What gas block depends on what HG.
Budget… not so much I only plan on building 1 AR and i like to spend my money the first time and get it right. It will be a basic SD SHTF rifle i am not planning on shooting pas 200yrds on a regular basis.
The Hand-guard will be a Black Rain Ordinance.
How did you select “Black Rain Ordnance” for your upper and lower? I think there are PLENTY of other options that are of known pedigree that I would use first.
I’d be curious to know as well.
Also, if budget isn’t an issue, and this is primarily a HD/SD rifle…I’d look at a 10.x" SBR + micro suppressor. Obviously contingent on what state you live in.
I want a milled lower and upper and like the design on the Black Rain, any reason i should look at something else? i’m here to learn
Munch520:SBR and suppressor are legal here, (GA) but for right now ill stick with a 16in
I hear ya on keeping it simple with a 16", any reason you’re set on billet? They’re heavier I think…
They are well i should have looked that up in the first place. What brands should i be looking at
I would suggest taking a few hours and reading through the posts on this forum. All your questions will probably be answered or you might have a better, more specific question that could benefit everyone.
Wrong term before…meant to say forged/billet. Sorry. And yea heavier as a result of more material, not sure how much heavier though.
Some may disagree with me but in general a bare upper/lower receiver is the last thing I’d spend extra cash on. Sure the ones from Seekins look sweet…sweet enough for me to fork $ over for risk getting castrated by the Mrs? Definitely not. For receivers, and most everything else on your build, I’d look at Daniel Defense, BCM, Colt. I recently got a lower from Palmetto State Armory and Aim Surplus. I was happy with those as well, for $49 and $59 respectively there’s lots of reasons to be 
although some have had finish issues with lowers from Aim.
For the rest I’d look to BCM:
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/AR-15-16-Mid-Length-Group-s/27.htm
Assembling a lower is easy enough and you don’t need anything but an armorer’s wrench. But if you want a complete lower:
http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&keywords=lower+not+follower
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Lower-Receiver-Groups-M4-AR15-s/117.htm
Yep, you’ll answer everything by reading. Or at least be able to formulate a more direct question.
As has been mentioned in numerous other threads you need to define what its’ use is. Once you have done that then you start to configure it.
There are so many options available right now it’s not funny. I don’t have a fascination with any of the billet uppers or lowers. If you want a good upper get something like the Vltor MUR, add a good Noveske or BCM barrel to it and then finish it off.
For the most part a lower is a lower. I personally like the LMT’s, Noveske and BCM lowers. I am also looking forward to a new Vltor lower. In any case until you define what the weapon is for, you can be searching for quit a while.
Thanks for the input, what is the consensus on the addax nitride 1:8 barrel?
Midlength gas systems mean a 9" handguard will leave the gas block exposed. If going for a low profile, you really want a 10-13" handguard unless you have to have a rail that goes to the flash hider/comp/etc. Personally, for a 16" middy, I really enjoy the Troy TRX VTAC 11 as it covers the gas block and gives a night BUIS radius. You can also put a 12 o’clock mounted light or offset and not have to reach out too far. Very capable rifle in your hands at that point.
Based on this advice, I found this to be worth reading.
http://forums.officer.com/showthread.php?81462-So-you-want-to-buy-an-AR-15-huh
i am about 95% of the way through the tech section, i think i have decided to go a different way with my build after my readings. I think i will buy a upper and just build the lower.
Why?
With the few not too expensive tools it is relatively easy and very rewarding. If you can put a lower together, an upper iss not that much harder. Just make sure you get the right info/how to.
Building your own upper does offer the option of configuring it exactly how you want it - and if done right, save some $ too…
When i looked at the specs i wanted to build from it comes extremely close to a D.D or Noveske upper
Say again? Check your sources, you can do better. I bought a couple barrels today and am planning some builds based on:
DD barrel: $189 + $8 shipping
PSA stripped upper: $59
Gas block, pin, tube: $65
= $321 for a stripped upper
I’m on my phone, I’ll post links tomorrow
If you want to go with all DD or Noveske parts then indeed it may become difficult to build yourself and save any money - may actually cost more that way.
Which is Ok I guess.
I am wanting a high quality gun that will last well… my life time, i only plan to buy one. i want to spend my money and get quality and not have to buy again…