I already have a couple mid tier ARs and want to do a high end, lightweight build. Plus I have never completely built one from the ground up. Just assembled a lower. Put together a list and wanted to run it through the m4c braintrust to make sure I wasn’t missing something or have some compatibility issue I was unaware of. Anyway here is the list.
One of the things I go back and forth is the upper/lower combo. The main reason I selected the MEGA was that it looks like the NSR rail would match up best with the MEGA upper. Really like the Seekins upper/lower combos too. Or just say screw it and get a Noveske chainsaw upper/lower but the MUR really has different lines than the NSR. Might flame me for being concerned with appearances but hell if you are going to dump a couple grand plus, you might as well have it look like you want it to.
Fire away and tell me what I forgot or pulled a dumba$$ selection.
I personally wouldn’t spend $100 on a full DD LPK when you’re buying a different trigger and grip right away… but that’s just me. Nothing wrong with it, you’ll just have spare parts.
The bulk of the items seem high quality. I have no experience with Hogue AR grips nor the stock so I can’t comment there. I would get the gas block pinned. There is no BUIS on your build or optics. Is that intentional? A high end build would ideally have an ambi safety selector like a BADASS.
The one item I hate to forget is a receiver end plate with a QD attachment. Inexpensive and easy to install before the build is finished even if you’re not sure you’ll use it. Otherwise you’ll be wrestling out a torqued and staked castle nut later.
I hope you like that Battlecomp cuz you’re going to be married to it.
A few suggestions. Do not waste your money on the 14.5" and pinning. Trust me on this. Get a 16" lightweight with a Battle Comp. I also would get a regular upper and lower. There are plenty of them around right now for much less. I would also get a Geissele rail in lieu of the NSR. It is rock solid and the little bit of additional weight is offset by the LW barrel.
Also that upper does not have a index hole for the NSR rail pin, so it seems pointless to me. I just built a rock solid carbine for someone using a SIONICS upper and lower cerakote set and saved him a pretty decent chunk of money. He got a Geissele rail, and all the trimmings with it.
While I don’t have any firsthand experience with the rails IG mentioned, I will second what he said about going with the 16" barrel over the pinned 14.5. As your experience and needs change/evolve, the ability to adapt the rifle to meet these changes is much more limited with a pinned muzzle device.
I chose a 14.5" to get the shortest possible package without jacking with NFA and I already have 2 16" ARs so there is certainly the desire to try a 14.5". You are right about making sure the muzzle device is what I want. Need to go shoot a BC before I pull the trigger on that one. Guess I could always put on one of my 16" uppers to try it out.
As far as the ambi selector, is there some reason to go with one if I, nor anyone in my family is a southpaw? Is it just standard practice on a high end build?
I have a hogue grip on one rifle and a moe+ on the other. Between those 2 and about any other grip I’ve held, the hogue feels the best to me. It does seem out of place on this build with higher end parts though. Must be weird because I like the finger grooves.
Keep them coming, looks like first order of business is to order a BC to give it a test drive.
The ambi selector is generally a build option. If you shoot from your support side you may find it useful. IMO its inexpensive enough to simply include it if you’re building from scratch.
I have tools out the azz. As far as AR specific tools, I have a castle nut/flash hider wrench but I figured a knipex adjustable wrench should work for the barrel nut being as the NSR just requires a crow foot 1 1/16" wrench to put on. Plus I have an assortment of punches etc.
There is a vise block needed for the upper though. Do they make a universal block that will work being as these uppers I have selected all have a different profile?
A build isn’t high end without an ambi safety selector? Sorry boss but that’s absolutely rediculous. I see your point that its worth a few extra bucks if you might use it but hell the build I’m planning is definitely top tier parts and an ambi selector is no where on my list.
And sorry IG but I’m gonna have to disagree with you telling the OP to go more generic on the upper and lower. If he wants a high end type build a solid receiver set is a good place to start. Otherwise it’s a high end “workhorse” type build. Either one is great but he didn’t really specify so I assumed he meant more along the lines of a “high end nice looking” build not just “battle ready quality” since he did mention the lines of the MUR clashing with the NSR.
OP, in my own opinion I think your build sounds solid. I wouldn’t choose some of the parts you did but that’s why you’re building it and not me. Since you’re looking for opinions however I’ll elaborate. I think you could save a bit with a different LPK as was mentioned. White Oak Armament offers multiple options both with and without triggers, they have a great fit and finish and would save some bucks without compromising, this is all null and void however if you were wanting a spare trigger. As for the stock, I’m kind of a Magpul fiend so anything but just looks heinous to me. I may however go to the dark side and get a B5 once the new arcteryx wolf color is released but that’s a different story.
I think before you completely pull the trigger and start ordering you should browse through the pic threads and Stickman’s Flikr account for some additional inspiration. All in all if you’re satisfied and your parts are compatible then fire away.
I didn’t tell him to use a generic upper and lower. I gave him an example. Using the Mega Arms billet upper and lower makes little to no sense. The NSR rail has an index pin in the rail that mates up to the upper (Vltor MUR’s for Noveske only) and acts as an anti-rotation device. Considering the cost of the upper/lower he is looking at, plus the cost of the NSR, I would get a good lower and flat top upper and then use a Geissele or other good rail. Below is a much better choice based upon my actual use and experience.
Fair enough, I suppose the term “generic” was a little vague and misplaced, in today’s world of everyone and their Grandma producing uppers and lowers generic could serve to label some quality trash. Since compatibility is obviously an issue with his selection you make a good point with the MUR and Geissele, I’m running a SMR MK1 and couldn’t be happier.
In the picture I clicked on as linked there is no hole. I have seen some Mega’s that did, but he would need to contact Rainier and confirm that particular set up does.
There are two dimensions to “high end”: The quality of the base components and the additional features/capability more $$ brings. Most consumers would expect to get both on a high end product.
As IG says, contact whoever you are buying from and make sure… as far as I know, the newer MEGA uppers have the index pin hole, as do the Vltor made Noveske MURs.
