Here is a great resource for info on outfitting and operating a BOV. Sections are well thought out and very informative ranging from planning, execution and recovery and maintenance. Mainly it covers trucks/cars but also kayaks and mountain bikes as well.
Automobile maintenance to me is a daunting task, especially if SHTF. Even things that appear to be “small” such as a discharged battery and or multiple flat tires would be very problematic once the lights go out.
I’d say side x sides. And keep some gas cans and whatever else you want in the bed. The can-am commanders are nice. They have 2 levels in their beds for a little extra storage and you can get all kinds of accessories for them (plow, winch, skid plates, brush guards, gun racks, etc…).
If you couldn’t tell, I’m thinking about getting one…
With the price of side x sides, why would that be a better choice than a Jeep Wrangler? I have been debating this myself and I keep leaning toward a good used Jeep.
x2, now that JKs are the norm the price of TJs has dropped drastically, I see lots of real nice TJs with the 4.0 inline 6 motor with 100k-120k miles for $4000-$6000. Those side x sides are more than that…take the back seat out of a TJ and you can fit 10x more than you could in one of those side x’s, not to mention waaay better range, offroad capability (arguable I guess).
True. Now that I’m thinking more about it, I’d go with a jeep too. I was just thinking about the atv comment above and how a lot of atv’s are about the same price as a side x side and I think a side x side would be more useful than an atv. But, the can am is one of the more expensive side x’s. That part was more of just an example.
I think it all depends on where you live and where you are headed. There are places I go on my ATV no side by side or Jeep could… For a guy who needed to spend some time on the road and then head to the hills I see the jeep being a good choice. They are just heavy and that is a limitation for the terrain I have in mind.
I think I need some 2 Grizz 700s, a Polaris Ranger, AND a Jeep…
IMHO the best bet for a BOV would be a simple, rugged pre 85 Blazer, Bronco ( 78-79), Wagoner, Trailblazer/Ramcharger. Might include the same years in pickup form with a topper. The older the better. Theres not much a fellow cant fix with a good manual or basic auto know how.
Keep the electronics simple.
Carbs only please.
Straight axles ONLY.
Switch out to 3/4 or 1 ton running gear.
Military wrap on springs, mild lift.
Bead lock rims.
Build it your self so you are familiar with its operation.
Go get stuck a few times.
Go break something.
SxS and ATV’s are a weak replacement for a BOV. Limited mileage, no protection from the elements, limited storage/haulage capacity, no ballistic protection ( as opposed to some ), hard to find parts for in a SHTF scenario, the list goes on.
Fullsized = more room for “stuff”. Not to discount the 1st gen. Broncos ( not Bronco II’s junk) was my main reason for the 78-79 choice, you pick what works for you.
Rust?? Well its nice to get a good body, BUT, just cut off what you dont need. I’m not building a show rig.
I would also propose a 1/2 inch breaker bar with extension with a good set of deep well sockets ( or just the ones you need ) would and is better than a 4 way lug wrench as it serves double duty, lug wrench, serpentine belt pulley , u-bolt nuts.
Also a snatch strap, not just a tow strap. NO METAL HOOKS!!!. They turn into rockets when the strap breaks.
Spoken like someone who is not from the Rust Belt. A truck that age in Ohio, that hasn’t been well cared for, will be more rust than body. Full on Flintstones time.
I have to disagree with the Carbs only thing. With the introduction of at least 10% ethanol in gasoline I don’t see carbs lasting to much longer. And lets not forget the fuel lines in older vehicles are not able to survive on ethanol gasoline either.
Fuel injected engines with throttle bodies are going to be more trouble free. Plus no stall out on steep inclines.
97-06 Jeep Wranglers (TJ) have still held their value somewhat in my area. To me the best of the SWB Jeeps you can buy. Easy to work on, easy to find parts for. Find a unlimited if you need more storage space.
But you are completely F%!@ed if there is an EMP and most people can’t fix them if they break. Carbs are easy to replace and to fix (compared to EFI), if need be.
Overall EFI is better, but not if we are talking about a survival situation/ Bug out.
If all the fuel lines were replaced with brand new replacements, wouldn’t the new materials be able to handle the added ethanol?
I agree that a Carb is a smarter idea for a BOV. I decided not to swap my carb/distributor over to points/magneto ignition but just buy spare ignition parts and put them in a faraday cage.
Exactly what I was thinking. My 89 Michigan YJ is a rust bucket (eaten through some floorboards). I plan to eventually do a frame and body swap on it once it’s mechanically reliable.
States that salt roads during winter eat vehicles. If I buy another used vehicle, it will be from AZ.
I like Jeep Liberty 4x4’s. They will tow 5000 pounds and go anywhere (almost). Hook up an enclosed cargo trailer with all your stuff and away you go. Add an inflatable bed and it becomes a cabin on wheels.
That was my reasoning, I should have stated it like Doc. Thanks Doc.
Originally Posted by Nathan_Bell View Post
Spoken like someone who is not from the Rust Belt. A truck that age in Ohio, that hasn’t been well cared for, will be more rust than body. Full on Flintstones time.
Being from the North East, Yea I know what rust is. Now living in the high desert of Wyoming, I enjoy rust free rigs, sometimes.
