So… I have a Bushmaster carbine with a non-H buffer, A BCM 16" middie with an H buffer and a BCM 20" rifle length with an H buffer (got the uppers and lowers separately). Maybe I should swap the buffers between the Bushmaster and the 20"?
I did stake the key and the castle nut on the Bushmaster and upgrade the extractor spring , etc with a BCM kit. I plan on unloading the Bushmaster on a sucker.
Comments?
Hals1
This is the most effective buffer I’ve ever used. Not only for recoil reduction but with the D-Fender that comes with it the ejection force is 4X times regular.
June 16, 2011
We answer some common questions about our Rate and Recoil Reducing Buffer.
Recently we’ve received quite a few questions about our Rate and Recoil Reducing Buffer. We have answered 2 of the most common below and hope that this helps explain why we truly believe that the MGI Buffer is without a doubt the best in the world.
Q: What is the approximate number of rounds per minute with both rifle and carbine models?
A: Our Rate & Recoil Reducing Buffer is self adjusting. In general this means that the more you need it the more it does. As an example of this, in recent test with two of our demo guns, we received the following results. The 11 1/2 inch barreled carbine was initially firing 1016 rounds per minute (rpm). After installing the MGI Buffer, the rate of fire dropped 271 rpm to a rate of 745 rpm. Our 20 inch barreled demo gun was initially shooting at a rate of 771 rpm. After installing the MGI Buffer the rate of fire fell 133 rpm to a rate of 638 rpm.
Q: There should be a caliber rating for these buffers?
A: The MGI Rate & Recoil Reducing Buffer, was designed to work not only in the standard M4 / M16 / AR-15 platforms, but also with MGI’s Modular Weapon System (Hydra). Because of the basic mechanical function of the buffer, it works very well with all of the calibers you mentioned. Basically, the harder you push it, the harder it pushes back to counter the recoil. It’s function is similar in nature to that of placing a hammer in each of your hands and swinging them towards each other meeting in front of you. When they meet, they will cancel out the energy in each other coming to a stop. If you swing both hammers harder, they will cancel out each other’s forward momentum. This is the same as the carrier moving to the rear as the buffer weights are moving forward to help cancel out the rearward energy of the carrier. Changing to a larger caliber just causes the weights to be hitting the carrier that much harder.
Related Document:
Rate and Recoil Reducing Buffer Sell Sheet
My question here is why not go with the heaviest buffer possible if it reduces recoil? Unless of course the mass is too much for the action to overcome but is that even an issue?
Answer inserted in bold
Yeah it’s an issue! If you’re short stroking the gun will malf… fail to strip the next round, or bolt over jam.
You want the heaviest buffer your gun will run reliably when dirty and less than optimally lubed… but not a buffer that only runs well in perfect conditions.
Mine is fairly heavy but clean or dirty it still compensates and works fine.
+1; sound advice. Also to add, with whatever particular ammo you will be using. Cheap shitty weak ammo often requires a lighter buffer than better quality stuff.
Thanks alot guys, that is why i come to this forum with questions. Right now i have a 16" lmt upper with a carbine length gas system. I’ve been running the spikes st-t2 buffer and no problems so far but i may have to dirty it up a bit and just see what happens and play around a bit. Any excuse to go out and put some rounds downrange sounds good to me.
i fired a new LMT carbine for the first time yesterday. a shooting buddy and myself both fired 2-20 rd mags of american eagle 5.56 with the H buffer installed, then i switched to a spike’s ST-T2 buffer, and we both compared results. the ejection was the exact same with both buffers [ 4:00 ] and the recoil was definitely smoother. the ST-T2 also removes most of the ‘‘sprong’’ from the spring. i also need to add, that is a fine-ass rifle, very accurate. it was on it’s way to birdsong’s to get brown-t’ed, with black stripes.
I am building a 6.5 Grendel and want the option of iron sights, I am looking for a detectable A2 rear sight that has the correct 8/3 markings on the elevation knob? You guys have any ideas?
Does anyone know the dimensions of the weights inside of the buffer? I have read that it is 5/8" in diameter, but I am not sure about the length. I can’t pull apart a buffer right now to check and the last time I tried to pull one apart, I didn’t have the proper tools at hand to do it correctly.
Thanks.
A few weights removed from carbine buffers nominally measured .5450" x .6135"
Thank you!
The Army A2 upgrade SOPMOD conversion kit to M4 stock
Damaged Ind…received the contract with their H6- 5oz Carbine Buffer and B5 got the stock contract with B5 Enhanced Stock.
Damaged Ind CS Enhanced Carbine Buffer Spring ( not part of SOPMOD kit)
That is what I run on my MK 12.
So, in summary, and to make it absolutely clear;
You match the buffer shape/size and spring to the lower. That is, a carbine lower gets a carbine buffer and spring, and a rifle lower gets a rifle buffer and rifle spring.
This holds, regardless of the upper parked on it. A rifle upper (20" barrel, rifle gas system, etc) on a carbine lower still gets a carbine buffer and spring. And vice-versa.
In the carbine lower, you use the heaviest buffer that reliably locks the bolt back, when tested dirty and with the weakest ammo you regularly use.
I am new and trying to build a better knowledge base. So seeing how some of the buffers have a pin holding them together, can you change the weight in a buffer lighter or heavier? Without affecting anything other than the recoil?
More than just recoil is changed. The cyclic rate/bolt speed is changed. Maybe for the better… maybe not. Yes, you can pull a buffer apart and swap weights around, but I don’t think it’s wise to do this in most cases since the buffer markings wont reflect the actual buffer weight.
I did this with an A5-1 buffer, but dremelled off the -1 marking so that it wouldn’t be confused with it’s actual weight (which was the standard config)
I think it’s better to buy a complete buffer unless for some reason you have extra tungsten weights available.
Yes, they can be dis-assembled, but unless you have a) a lathe, b) a source of materials and c) a desire to experiment, why?
It isn’t as if buffers are so ferociously expensive that you can’t just buy different ones.
Not saying I would, could or have… Just wondering if one could.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some people use the Kentucky buffer system but I don’t see how it’s worth the time and effort.