Buffer question

I currently have an H2 in my LMT M4, but some members here have suggested I revert to the H1 as it may prove more reliable. My dad has one of the Enidine Recoil ARrestor buffers in his frankenrifle and is willing to trade for my H2. Are the Enidines a good product?

a friend of mine has a BCM middy with an H2, which by the same theory should be even less reliable. he has experienced ZERO malfunctions with mil spec ammo, under a variety of situations. I recommended he switch to an H1, just in case. I have no experience with endine and no wish to.

If your rifle has been functioning as it should than leave it alone! You have a quality rifle from what you are describing.

Ditto: If it works fine leave it alone. Too many people think they are improving things by swapping out parts on a reliable rifle.

Do a search for the Enidine buffer here,I think you will find that most everyone agree’s that it should be avoided at all costs and can become a liability.There is no way I’d give up my H2 buffer for one.

I run an H buffer in my LMT 16",and it works reliably with a mixture of .223 Rem. to include wolf and 5.56 NATO.I used a H2 for a short time as an experiment and it worked as well,but ran significantly slower with some of the lower pressure .223 loads and would occassionally short stroke with Wolf.Worked without a hitch with 5.56 Nato spec ammo.
So I shot for the middle and stayed with the H to ensure reliability overall.That said if I was running 5.56 NATO accross the board I’d have the H2 in my LMT.
So if your not having any issues running the H2 then stay with it,no need to change if function is 100%.

Thank you, gentlemen! I’ll stick with the H2 for now.

+1

If your rifle locks back on empty with what you are using…keep using it. I run a BCM 16" middy with an FA M16 bolt carrier (CMT) and a Spike’s ST-T2 buffer (about the same weight as an H2) AND a Tubbs 2000 Flat wire Chrome silicon buffer spring…‘on paper’ (at least on some of the paper around here) it shouldn’t run at all. But run it does…and it runs SUPER SMOOTH.

Use good lube (I use Slip 2K EWL), and good ammo, and your setup is GTG. Don’t doubt yourself brother; if it locks back on empty while you hold the rifle with a relatively limp stance…ur GTG. :cool:

I hear the Spikes T2 buffer is really good at reducing recoil. I think it’s in between an H1 and H2. If your carbine is running fine now I wouldn’t worry about it unless you want the upgrade.

http://www.spikestactical.com/z/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=104_97&products_id=201

http://vuurwapenblog.com/2009/12/22/oh-products/

The only ammo I have run through it lately has been some Federal .223 55-grain stuff from WalMart. It seems to function OK…no stoppages, and all the brass ends up in a neat little pile about six-seven feet away at 5 o’clock. I believe I’ll stick with the H2 for now, and see what happens in the future.

Thanks!

My 14.5" LMT runs perfectly with an H2 using .223 spec’d ammo. Ive also ran some steel cased ammo with no issues.

Put an H buffer in the rifle and I bet it’ll toss the brass to about four o’clock…that where my LMT puts them with an H.Seems anytime Ive had a rifle toss brass back to five o’clock it was bordering on short stroking.If you happen to run some even lesser quality ammo or the weapon becomes heavily fouled it might start to show the short stroking.
I generally like to see my rifles and carbines toss the brass to between three and four o’clock.Seems my weapons are most reliable when everything clicks together and tosses the brass in that area.
So just to play it safe I’d either plan on shooting 5.56 NATO with the H2 installed, or at least try some different brands/loads of ammo you might consider using in the near future…particularly your defense ammo to ensure reliable performance.
Otherwise it sounds like your on track to me.

Not to hijack this thread but I was going to start a thread with a question similar to your post. I am a lefty and my new piston lmt will occasionally spit brass right in my face and it is a bit distracting to say the least. The lmt came with an H2 buffer.so in your experiance an H1 will put brass more to the side than strait back in my face?

On my LMT DI 16" upper the H buffer puts the brass right at 4 o’clock in a nice little pile,and the H2 send the brass back at late 5 o’clock.Certainly not running fast or overgasssed on the LMT carbine DI’s.Had the same exact results with my uncles brand new DD XVM4 as well(it came with an H buffer installed).
Now Im using a standard Colt 4 coil extractor spring and black insert with the Crane o-ring removed in the LMT BCG.If your still using the LMT extractor spring and insert you will probably want to keep the Crane o-ring in place as the LMT extractor springs are somewhat short and made from small wire,therefore a bit weak without the o-ring in place.
That said I much prefer the Colt extractor springs over anything else thats available,and they work well on all my uppers,carbine,middies and rifle length gas systems.No o-rings in anything I own.
What I found is with regular .223 Rem and Wolf the H2 IMHO is delayed too much and borders on short stroke.I only ran the H2 buffer for a couple hundred rounds in my testing of buffers in that rifle,and I felt the action cycle was too slow for the majority of the plinking and defensive ammo I use.Repeated the same results with the DD XVM4 I mentioned above.
Being that my LMT Defender 16" is my designated defense weapon I had concerns with reliability if heavily fouled or contaminated etc. so I stayed to the safe side of what works with all my ammo.
So for me the H buffer felt best overall and seems middle of the road for the .223 Rem and 5.56 in my LMT carbine,so I ran with it.
Now all that said,I have never had a piston upper or shot one so I have no real info to add.
gotm4 would be the man to ask.