I’m cheap. I like quality, but I want it at the lowest price possible. So, if I buy a H3 buffer and pull out the 3 tungsten weights. Then replace the standard weight in a standard buffer with one of the tungsten weights, then I have a H buffer, correct? Then, if I take the 3 standard weights and put them all in the empty H3 buffer, I’ll have a standard buffer, correct?
This seems like a relatively inexpensive way to get three each H and one standard buffer for the price of a H3. So, am wrong in my analysis here?
LOL. Do you have the tools to do this job? I have never done it but I have a sneaking suspicion if it was the easy thing to do, you’d have seen it done in some form of a kit you could purchase. I’ll be will to bet you need the right punches and it’s a real pain. By the time your done your at the price to buy the extra buffers. I say this because most people that do all these one time things on their own have the tools from other jobs.
I learned long time ago. It doesn’t pay to be cheap as a rule. The guys who do it aren’t cheap. They have spent good money on the right tools. But it wasn’t cheap. It’s just what they like to to. Tinker. Your trying to cut corners and save a few bucks. 99.99% Odds you’ll have a problem. Maybe an expert will answer I admit this is just a guess.
First, I’m surprised at the lack of response to this thread. I am quite confused at that.
Two, I got the idea from this thread. The only tool necessary is a roll pin punch, that I can see and I do have the punch. I was trying to validate the assertion in that thread, that the only difference is indeed the tungsten vs. standard steel for the weights.
Three, I was encouraged by this thread that this idea might actually be quite viable. Since the OP in that thread was doing essentially what I am about to do.
FWIW, I ordered the H3 on Friday. We’ll see how it goes. I am fairly confident that I’ll end up with 3 H and a standard buffer from the 3 standard and a H3 that I start with, regardless of the lack of response to this thread. And I will have saved myself about $70 when I am done. That’s pretty close to the price of a M4 buttstock assembly, which I need for the lower I am putting together.
Correct. I have three AR’s with carbine length gas systems. I have put FA carriers in them, but I wanted to also add the H buffers to increase reliability and durability. The remaining standard buffer will go towards a mid-length build that I have in the works.
Good point, bad math on my part. The savings is about $30.
I tried it once, and that thing wasn’t coming out at all. I tried to use pliers, but the shape of it made it impossible to pull it out without gouging the hell out of it.
I ended up just dremeling the buffer body apart to get at the goodies inside.
Did I just have a tough one, or is there some trick to get the bumper out?
Once you have the roll pin out I use a razor blade and carefully push into joint were the nylon bumper meets the metal buffer then carefully pry up the bumper and work my way around the circumference of the buffer.
removing the rubber is easy. looking for raw tungsten is hard.
Im in the Philippines by the way… no H buffer in stock!
tried stainless steel. very little weight difference.
anybody know any other kind of heavier material aside from tungsten?
I might have to replace all 3 steel weights to make it to H buffer.
Is it possible to just make a 1 piece instead of 3piece ?
Go to a machine shop that does engine crank-shaft ballance work, they will have mallory (very heavy metal) for adding to cranks. That should be much heavier than SS.
Just asking if any body knows what do they use in the dead blow hammers?
I know some of them are filled with powder but I have never taken one apart to see exactly what was in it. Its an Idea that might be usable.
Im in the truck reconditioning business. It just so happens I tied up with a shop that does crank shop work. Most of the crankshaft that we had them repair was doing a weld build up… what do they use the mallory for?
thomas,
the dead blow hammer is interesting. but how do I use the powder?
When you start doing high RPM race engines you have to ballance the rotating assembly. They will drill into the counterweights at an angle and them fill the holes with pressed in slugs of mallory to get the ballance correct. I had done a 540ci Ford a few years ago and they had to place multiple mallory slugs in each counter weight. I was spinning at 8,800 RPM’s. The idea of drilling at an angle is because the centrifugal force will now hold the mallory in tighter as you spin it up rather than try to pull it out or leave it neutral from a straight side drill.
Any shop that does race type engines is going to have mallory on hand. It is heavy.
But I don’t know for sure what is used in dead blow hammers?
Larry’s idea would probable be more practical. I might try high perf boat shops I guessing you might have a few in your neck of the jungle.Or perf motorcycle shop might have mallory.
Mallory is a very dense metal, more than twice the density of steel. A 11/42-inch-diameter, 31/44-inch-long slug of Mallory weighs 43 grams. Drilling the hole in your crankshaft removes roughly 24 grams, so the net gain is only about 19 grams.
Not sure what the buffer material is made of, but you might be able to find out what it is and be able to calculate it out. Here is the real bitch with Mallory… I believe on my bill for that crank shaft getting Mallory metal it was listed out at somewhere around $50 PER SLUG!!! I had over $30,000 in that engine… so in my big picture it was not a big deal… but in a buffer that you can buy at retail for under $100… Mallory would not be a good financial choice unless it was the only solutution available to you.