Superior
I don’t know about unicorn jizz, but I know I can pop into a NAPA and grab some Super Lube, that, for my purposes, outperforms every other snake oil I’ve tried.
Lubricants change over time. Some get better, some not so much.
I tend to stick with what the military uses. I’ve run the gambit of lubes/super lubes etc. wasted a lot of money over that time. Seeing what the armorer’s shop uses during RD/TE gives me a warm fuzzy.
As of now, unless something major changes, I use G96 for a CLP. I use Aeroshell #33 grease for my Glock connectors and my AR triggers.
I still run Break Free CLP for cleaning… That said, I haven’t cleaned an AR in over a year. Not sure if I remember how to clean an AR.
An article on lubrication that could save some money, and possibly mitigate health concerns:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/
I’ve been following the advice in the article for about a year, and am happy with the results. Much cheaper than the latest legless reptile derived oils, and possibly safer. Lubrication seems to be as good as anything else, even at 1,000 or 2,000 rounds in. I’m in humid, coastal SC, and sometimes shoot in the rain (rain repels Bubba). No rust issues so far.
I do still use issued CLP for punching barrels. Most users will be fine owning only CLP to clean, lube and protect every gun in the safe. After all, my friends and I have fired lots of suppressed and unsupressed rounds with just CLP, and have gotten wet for days. Just wear gloves regardless of lube type.
Gun products on guns.
Car products on cars.
In the early days of CLP we tried using it to clean with, it proved very unsuccessful.
The best way I found to clean a well used M2 and M240 was to start with hot water and green pad and the green cleaning toothbrush. Very hot water and a scrub in the tub will do the trick. In a pinch I’ve used JP fuel when no hot water was available.
CLP seemed to do fine as a lubricant, but not as a cleaner.
It took owning a Garand for me to appreciate grease. I’d always just used the latest and greatest wonder-oil lube and forwent the grease on my autos. Now I use very small dabs of either Lucas grease or the same Lubriplate I use for my Garands on sliding surfaces and drops of oil on the rotating parts. I only use a CLP type product to clean the barrel and feed ramp.
Don’t Garands (and M14’s) require grease on certain surfaces anyway?
If I own it and it has a slide that rides a rail it has a small dab of that Lucas white grease on it.
Garands and M1A/M14’s came with a two part oiler and I believe one side was oil, the other was grease.
I was just sitting here thinking…what this forum needs is another lube thread…sorta like…mmmmm…more cowbell.
:jester:
As for Breakfree being changed: IIRC around 20 years ago I’d swear it smelled like burnt tires. I can’t detect that smell anymore. I doubt it’s just my getting used to it: Ballistol still reeks like it used to. I’m thinking the formula for BreakFree has indeed changed over the years.
It used to breakdown and you would have a thin oily substance on top and a thick rather unpleasant layer of spooge in the bottom.
I switched away from Breakfree years ago…I thought it smelled bad and it didn’t work all that well. It cleaned poorly, didn’t protect the metal all that well, and was just “meh” as a lube. Plus the Teflon crap settled and was always caked at the bottom being annoying and useless.
These days everything else gets Corrosion-X. It works just as well as any other magic jiz I’ve tried and is a superior protectant. In addition to the Corrosion-X, the Garand, M1 Carbine, and M1A get a slathering of either TW-25B or Lubraplate 130, depending upon which is at hand at the time.
For cleaning, I use MPro-7 exclusively. Makes life fast and easy.
That test proves nothing, can easily be manipulated by the person conducting the “test”, and does not conform to any industry standards.
Want proof? In this video Head & Shoulders out performs several top brands of motor oil
[video=youtube_share;Ne7ayhPVVYY]https://youtu.be/Ne7ayhPVVYY[/video]
I was going to comment after that first video linked that the wear surface on the test cylinder was getting wider, therefore spreading the lubricated area out. This video mentioned the same thing. All I know is that I’m going to test some Prell out tonight… everyone knows that shit is slick as hell.
Just buy NANO LUBE! :jester:
Hey, Boeing can’t be wrong:
So, out of curiosity exactly what DOES the Army issue for cleaning/lubing these days?
Back in the 80’s it was Break Free.
I want to die like my grandpa did, peacefully, in my sleep, not screaming like the people in the other car.
Yes, for anything more than a few rounds. I wouldn’t want to run mine without it, but I’m sure you could (just using lubricant) if you wanted to for some reason. My point was that I didn’t really see the need for grease on my other guns before, but now I put it on every one on most sliding surfaces. Stays in place a lot better than any lubricant I’ve ever used.
Yes on the oiler. I like the white Lucas grease for my modern guns, but I stick with Lubriplate on my Garands and some AR parts. After field stripping my Garand, there are only 2 or 3 spots where I apply a very small dab of lube, if I’m not taking the bolt apart.