Alright - thanks.
Worth a try, right? 
An update -
I installed a Ghost 3.5# connector and now the slide fully returns to battery in the slow test. :dance3:
I had a G30SF that had the initial FTRTB issue, over the first ~100 rounds or so. I had never seen such a thing on a Glock before, but this was my first Glock .45, so I wasnāt sure what I to expect at the time. There were no static tests or other diagnostics of which I was aware - it just wouldnāt return to battery after firing a round until I released the pressure on the trigger.
I posted in the thread on GlockTalk, took photos and measurements of internal parts, and generally panicked. Then, after I improved my lubrication routine, the pistol āwore inā (for lack of a better term) pretty quickly, and I never looked back. I would still have that pistol today if I hadnāt decided to consolidate calibers in favor of more ammo purchases.
My suggestion: lube it properly with a high quality lube, perhaps even GENTLY sand/polish the FPS and the intersecting protrusion on the OEM trigger bar with jewelerās cloth or ultra-fine sandpaper (or whatever people recommend), and then put another ~250-500 rounds through it - Iāll bet that the problem goes away.
Nobody should have to mess around with a brand new firearm to make it function right.
Does the dam thing shoot or not? Go run 500 rounds and report back.
I agree Pat, and understand that it does shoot just fine.
I expected a bit more from it thoā.
Iāve since learned that recent Glocks simply arenāt the āperfectionā that mebbe the early 17/19s were.
But this is the most accurate bigbore semi-auto Iāve owned, and itās certainly not uncommon for any of 'em to respond to a little breaking in.
Iāve since installed a Ghost 3.5# connector and, just this evening, Tru-glo sights.
I can hardly wait to punch some holes now. 
regards,
Goes BANG and 10 shots makes a 1" ragged hole at 7 yds.
Just waiting for my bullets to get here.
Iāll shoot it alright.
This.
Iām not sure what Iām supposed to be seeing on the other two pics, but if you donāt position your recoil spring deep enough into the cutout on the barrel, you will gouge your frame or potentially cause malfunctions.
Step away from the files and sandpaper and go shoot the thing some more and let us know the result.
1 pic is the barrel not in battery, another the scraping inside the frame.
As others have noted above itās normal for the RSA to pop out of the milled seat.
A call to Glock CS confirmed: āthe seat is just for reassemblyā.
But I am looking to shoot a little tomorrow, if itās not raining.