I finally succumbed to getting a Glock when I handled the 30SF - my favorite cartridge, fits my hand, compact with good mag capacity.
Seems an ideal carry piece for me.
Reading of FTRTB issues and the -1- RSA fix, upon trying the slow-return test, you can imagine my disappointment to find that problem and a -1 RSA in it, 2012 production too.
However, I’ve determined that the problem is the RSA popping out of it’s milled lugseat down to the milled crosscut near the lug bottom, with the rear disk then dragging on the raised frame portion containing the slide lock spring, creating visible marks.
It drops immediately upon full slide retraction following reassembly.
I reduced the diameter of the disk, thinking it might be the drag causing the popping out, but it’s made no difference, so the popping out comes first.
Only 30 rounds thru it so far, but it’s surprisingly accurate, and no FTRTB during firing, but it may only get worse in the future.
As you may imagine, sending a brandnew Glock back to the factory for repair is a most disheartening thought.
Any of you Glock armorers familiar with this?
Fixes?
(Please - no recommendations of other brands, thanks - I have others, and it won’t help sort this out.)
As I said, it’s my first Glock but I have the impression that among the Glock community, failing the slow RTB test is considered a problem in itself.
I’ve read on more than one forum that “any Glock” should pass it.
I reduced the disk only partway round, so the seated edge still holds the RSA in the same relative position.
I considered my approach a quick and easy way to see if the RSA was causing it, and cheap enough if I must replace it, given the low cost.
If it turned out to be the cause, I figured I’d be doing so anyway, so mebbe not so dumb.
I just finished off the 14 rounds on hand and it’s cycling as it should.
My concern is really about continued damage and subsequent unreliability.
Here are pix, best I can; faint marks show extent of dragging, outlined on frame.
Don’t most guns fail a slow RTB test, especially brand new guns that haven’t broken in? Isn’t that why we aren’t supposed to ride the slide forward when chambering a round?
I carry a Glock 30SF daily, and have so for over 4 years now. I initially had some issue/concern with the slight marking line on the connector. I have a little over 2000 rounds through it and stopped worrying 1500 rounds ago. I think some people on the internet forums (GlockTalk for one) has exaggerated this occurrence to the point of paranoia. As for the recoil spring assembly it will ride up only when the gun is disassembled, I wouldn’t modify it in any way. The slow RTB occurs only during hand cycling, don’t buy into the hysteria. If the gun functions correctly, don’t worry about the very slight metal wear on the connector. Clean and lube it regularly and you will be fine. Listen to the members here, IMO they have way more knowledge than most at any other website.
OK, I confess -
After my purchase, I googled “Glock 30SF” and was swamped w/forum posts about FTRTBs and got concerned, as I intended it for EDC.
I came here 'cause I consider this site to have the most-knowledgeable members anywhere, and you’ve all calmed me down.
After all, what’s important is, “Does it function properly?” and so far, my answer is “Yes”.
If that changes, I’ll be back for more info.
I purchased a Glock 27 a few months ago that did the same exact thing at the beginning. THe 1st round i shot thru it had the same exact malfunction then it smoothed out. I now have a little over 100 rds thru it as it has been too cold to shoot but the problem seems to have fixed itself. I had the issue 3 times total in the 1st 20 rds but since then i have over 80 issue free rounds. So as others have said shoot it and it should be fine.
What-tah-hey, not sure I understand the issue you are explaining. Is this “slow-return test” with no magazine in the pistol and no round in the chamber? If so, no Glock should fail to return to full battery. I have a Gen 4 26 that with no round in the chamber and no magazine in the pistol (in other words, no ammunition any where near the pistol) that would not go into full battery position upon my easing the slide forward. Glock sent me a new RSA (on their dime), and the issue was resolved.
In any event, this issue that I did have did not in any way affect the functioning of the pistol when shooting with it.
Yes, that was my original concern (and it still won’t fully return) but then I discovered the RSA is popping out of it’s seat.
If I reseat it and reinstall the slide only 'til it locks, it slips back off easily, as it should.
With the lock temporarily diasabled, as soon as the slide is reinstalled and (very slowly) drawn back far enough to unbreech the barrel, removing the slide again requires a tap on the rear 'cause the RSA disk is fouling in the frame.
It’s functioned fine with the 50ish rounds thru it so far tho’.
I’m loading more today to see if it breaks in or breaks down.
Did you send yours in or did a ‘phone call suffice?
Even tho’ I did alter the RSA, if that’s the reason for the FTRTB, it was somehow bad from the get-go anyhoo.
I never sent it in. Glock sent me a new RSA, and that cured it. Mine was also slipping out of the notch too far. I know it is normal for the RSA to slip up the notch to a certain degree; however, mine was going too far and I also scraped my frame a little in the area just to the rear of the serial number cut-out when trying to take the slide off for a field strip.
By the way, I would recommend you wait for the new RSA before you try it again. Running more rounds through mine did not help.
