Alright, I’ll be jumping into the NFA pond soon and would like some input. I’m fairly set on a suppressor selection; the new YHM Resonator. I’d initially planned on the YHM Turbo, but am glad I waited. For just a little more cash, the versatility of a .30 cal can seems like a no-brainer. However, I’m open to hearing any opinions that contend otherwise.
The real question I have is, what type of muzzle device should I go with? The YHM cans come with the buyer’s choice of either a FH or MB. No price difference, and both options are QD. If I stick with purchasing the YHM Resonator, the can will primarily see use on:
10.5" barreled AR in 5.56
16" barreled AR in 5.56
26" barreled bolt action in .308
Outside of plinking/range/training the intent is to let it live on the 10.5" AR. However, until I put some rounds downrange, I won’t completely write-off marrying it to the 16" carbine.
Obviously, I’ll need to purchase two muzzle devices (in addition to the one that comes with the can). So, what would you all recommend for each?
If you’re planning to only use the 10.5 with the suppressor, I would go with a brake as it will act as a sacrificial first blast baffle and spare the can some of the wear from the short barrel.
That shouldn’t be as much of an issue on the other two, so I would say use whichever you prefer to have on those guns when not running the suppressor.
Just my thoughts, others may have more/better input.
I believe - at least with my AAC can and AAC Blackout brake, that the brake acts as a baffle of sorts and can extend the life of your can. I don’t know if that’s quantifiable, as I’m pretty new to suppressors, but this is what I was taught, by someone who has used them much of his military career and also as a civilian. I have also read some research to support this, and it does make some sense to me in my limited scope of knowledge.
With the AAC, their Blackout brake is substantially higher than their FH, which is why I suppose you get a free FH with the can.
Even so I only run brakes and so I recommend brakes.
I’ll tell you that once I started running drills and training with my can on my SBR’s I did not want to run it any other way. I’ve already bought another .30 cal AAC can dedicated for my 300BLK SBR and once I get it here in a few of months, I will buy a smaller 5.56 can, mostly likely the M42K. For the most part I enjoy shooting my precision rifles with a can and have a dedicated .30 cal can for my 308. The plan is to leave it on my .308, the other .30 cal can on my 300BLK, and then a 5.56 can for my go-to SBR, which wish either float… or I’ll end up getting a couple more dedicated 5.56 cans so each SBR has its own. I hope to resist that pull to the dark side. Or broke side, but I’m not counting on it. Lol
You’ll love that thing in your 10.5. My suppressed 10.3 is one of my favorite setup. Just 150% blast!
Thanks for the input, guys! I too have heard a lot of folks saying a brake can help to slow any wear in the blast chamber; providing a greater benefit as the barrel gets shorter. I can certainly see why that assertion has merit.
The YHM can does have an Inconel blast baffle, which I understand also helps with mitigating wear. I suppose my only apprehension in going with a brake (on the 10.5") is knowing that occasions without the suppressor won’t be all that pleasant
Regardless, I’m pretty excited about getting into the NFA game! Just trying to patiently wait a little longer for some end user reports on the Resonator.
I went with flash hiders. It’s nice to shoot my SBRs without an extra pound hanging off the front every now and then, and brakes are obnoxious. If your can is going to live on a particular host, I would go direct thread. Although a brake acts as a sacrificial blast baffle, no one can quantify how much wear is reduced. Either way, I know I won’t shoot out my can in my lifetime.
I Dunn FH mounts on all mine. YHM FHs to be specific. I have multiple YHM cans, multiple F1 cans that use YHM muzzle devices, and multiple SiCo cans that use YHM muzzle devices. At the time I started, YHM said it didn’t matter…pick which one I wanted. They rated all their cans down to 10.5" regardless of whether FH/MB used. This included 6.8, which SiCo limited the Omega to 16".
Then came the Nitro. I have one in jail (along with two Turbos). It’s the first time I’ve really seen any company list different min barrel lengths based on MB vs FH. In my case, I’m dedicating the Nitro to a 16" 300BLK build, so it’s not a big deal. If I hadn’t gotten it for a steal ($425), I’d cancel it and buy a Resonator instead.
The versatility doesn’t mean much to me. Swapping end caps usually isn’t worth the time. Everything I have is QD, so the included DT adapter may never get used. I guess it may be nice to have some day…and for others it may be real useful from the start.
(BTW…I have the explanation from YHM for the minimum barrel lengths…if anybody hasn’t seen it and wants to, let me know and I’ll go get it and copy/paste it here. I thinks it’s in a PM on a different site).
Originally Posted By YHM_Kevin:
BigWaylon, you’re not the first person to ask us about the multitude of barrel length restrictions for the Nitro. Below is a brief write up on our reasoning’s.
The reason there are so many variations of barrel length restrictions on the Nitro is due to the suppressor being designed as a multi caliber do-all suppressor. In order to achieve optimal sound reduction on all tested platforms it was found that a conical first baffle provided the best sound results. Due to the geometry of the first baffle it is recommended that the provided Q.D. muzzle brake be used on short barreled rifles in order to help disperse the initial blast to the sides of the blast chamber rather than directing it at the face of the first baffle. This allows the Q.D. muzzle brake to act as a sacrificial blast baffle and dramatically prolong the service life of the suppressor.
The design of our current Q.D. flash hider directs virtually all of the blast into the face of the first baffle. When shot full auto on a short barreled rifle this could cause premature wear of the first baffle. During product testing it was noted that utilizing the supplied direct thread caps resulted in much better erosion resistance when compared to the Q.D. flash hider because again, the initial blast is not being directed to the face of the first baffle.
All of our other suppressors have a flat blast baffle which greatly increases erosion resistance but in some cases doesn’t provide the most effective sound mitigation.
Originally Posted By BigWaylon:
Good info. I’m going to take away two things:
Direct thread has same minimum lengths as when using the brake
If I’m not doing FA mag dumps…and simply hunting or shooting a box of ammo at a leisurely pace, or wanting to compare the Nitro to my current cans for a couple shots…then I won’t worry too much about putting it on an SBR.
And then he said:
Originally Posted By YHM_Kevin:
Both those point are correct. We just try spell out the uniqueness of the NITRO compared to our other models. The Turbo on the other hand has no different restrictions than our older Phantoms.
I get the nuisance that brakes bring to the range. Do you shoot on private land or a range? I haven’t shot at a public range in about two years, so I don’t really get on anyone’s nerve but my own. For sure though when I’m doing some drills shooting under a vehicle, if I happen to not have my can on, I create dust clouds that rival Ft Sill, OK dust devils in July. Other than that it doesn’t really bother me to shoot with a brake as long as I not next or anyone or in a confined space.
A little of both. I occasionally shoot on private land, but that’s dependent upon a friend being present. This year, I added a membership to a semi-private (outdoor) range. They have limited hours for the public, while members have essentially 24/7/365 access. I try to avoid indoor ranges at all cost.
I have a brake on one of my 16" ARs, and try to be a good “neighbor” when other shooters are around. The apprehension over putting a brake on the 10.5" is more personal than anything. With a standard FH it already has a nice bark to it. Knowing how much the brake upped the concussion on that 16" AR, I can only imagine how much “fun” the 10.5" will be without a can.
I’m leaning towards getting one of each for the two ARs; starting with the brake on the 10.5 and FH on the 16". I already know what to expect with a brake on the 16". So, if for some reason the 10.5" is unbearable, I can always just swap them.
Nice thing is (IIRC) YHM cans have a lifetime warranty. So, if I somehow shot it out, I’m sure they’d take care of it.
As a public service to humanity, I don’t run brakes on anything except a .50 bmg (and that’s only when it’s unsuppressed, and there wasn’t a non-brake option).
I run FH on most 5.56 12.5 SBR and on 300 B.O. 300 Win.Mag muzzle brake… But suppressed I do have few 5.56s with muzzle brakes one for FM1 can (should have direct threaded and pin on short barrel) I wouldn’t shoot 300 WM near anyone unsuppressed, unless they are doing the same.:sad: I started using the logic of saving suppressor with muzzle brakes but if I can shoot out a suppressor I’ll be successful in life.
Design of the flash hider - does it ping? The ping makes me want to punch babies (even with the suppressor and plugs and muffs) I will go brake to remove the ping
Barrel length and manufacturer recommendations - Shorter barrels and if the mfctr. states something regarding their design to act as a biast baffle for a brake - disputed in some cases, but it is what it is.
Caliber and will I ever shoot it unsuppressed (Extremely rare for me)- .308/7.62x51 vs 5.56 recoil mitigation and intended use of the weapon
More recent designs by companies like Dead Air, remove a varying amount of material on each flashhider prong. This changes the harmonics, removes the ping and still provides good flash suppression.
AAC was the first flash hider mount I had experience with, and is where I determined my annoyance/hatred for the “PING”.
AAC mounts regardless of caliber - Brake
Dead Air - Mix, but more flash hider than brake
Surefire - Closed tine flash hider and brake depending upon caliber and intended use. I’ve heard from others that Surefire flash hiders have the ping as well, so I went with the closed tine SOCOM mount for use with my RC can.
This has been my experience over the last 8-10 years .
I much prefer flash hiders to brakes on 5.56 rifles. Brakes make them quite miserable to fire unsuppressed indoors.
On an AR10, however, I prefer brakes for their recoil reduction.
I prefer the brake as I care about the life of the can. (Not even necessarily the cost, but the year wait sucks.) Everything running a brake is always fired with the can on, so I don’t need to worry about being a jerk at the range. Oddly enough, once I went with my first suppressor I was hooked, and almost every rifle round I fire now is suppressed. I see no reason not to.
