How many of you check headspace when replacing a bolt? Do most just throw it in and run it, or check it?
Chromed 5.56 chamber or?
If the former, the only thing I know of is the field gauge specified in the armorers manual which would indicate excess headspace. The only thing adjustable in that scenario is trying new bolts.
If the latter, then it may be something that needs to be checked and have some potential for reaming the chamber to correct if the bolt won’t close on a go gauge.
I just run it. I mean it’s a good idea to check headspace especially if it’s a higher mileage gun.
Yep. If it’s a reputable manufacture (barrel and bolt), just run it. If it’s got 20k rounds, not a bad idea to check head space.
Honestly naw. It could eff up on you but usually doesn’t if it is well made. LMT enhanced bcgs exist
Yes they do! I have two in weapons and two more as spares dipped in EWL and wrapped in a gallon ziplock bag.
Thanks! It’s a chrome lined 5.56
Well I don’t know about the upper being reputable. It’s a PSA premium upper with alleged FN barrel from 2012. MPI bolt that planned to replace with a Sionics or SOLGW.
It’s got MAYBE 3,000 rounds through it, tops. I don’t mess with it much, but looking to eliminate all the parts in from PSA. Probably shoot it ‘til it breaks, but didn’t want to throw another bolt in there if it’s not recommend
Thanks for the feedback!
Supposedly people will tell you that with modern manufacturing, and the nature of how an AR is designed, makes excess headspace not too likely, but I’m the paranoid type.
( I may have to come back and edit this. I’m tired and not phrasing things too clearly).
Edited my reply to markm above with more info.
My general understanding is exactly what you wrote. Like has been said, if it’s got beaucoup rounds through it then yeah, a headspace check would be in order.
I’ve always assumed that headspace was more important to pay attention to in a platform like the M14 or M1 Garand.
Their premium stuff is pretty good. Worst thing I have seen/read about is gas blocks installed with no dimple. Front sight bases are taper pinned and phosphates before pinning.
I think if there was anything inherently wrong with your bolt it would have shown by now. That kind of issue tended to show up quick in 2012 era if something got cranked out substandard. Keep a spare on hand and shoot the original till you lose a lug, etc.
I have gauges, so I would remove the ejector and extractor and see if it closes on a field gauge.
Unless you have a specific reason for wanting to replace the bolt (not sure if you are talking bolt or BCG - I tend to just buy BCG’s) I would just run it until it gives you problems, or, if you want to be on top of it, at about 5,000 rounds.
In other words if it is working, why mess with a part that is working in your rifle.
I have it in my head to replace the bolt and possibly the whole bcg since they came from PSA. It works fine now, so I could just have a new bcg on standby for when it fails. Once I have the new bolt and carrier, do I check to see if that bolt closes on a go/no go gauge?
You HAVE TO get the gauge that’s rebated so you don’t have to remove bolt parts to check.
Is there a brand you recommend? The USGIs are a bit expensive when you can find them.
I don’t know of any other than the USGI. With precision gauges, you’re not usually getting off cheap.
I was afraid you would say that. Is there a good source for the USGI ones? I got one from Bill Ricca at one point, but it grew legs while I was deployed.
Hey OP, FWIW: IMHO… There is Nothing wrong with “Most of” PSA’s Quality nowadays. Also, it’s the 1st AR to go 5,000 rounds without breaking via the guys of “AK Operators union”… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvAz185Z6-I
Plus they’ve run other firearms from PSA through the war…
IF You’ve got something wrong with your PSA… They’ll fix it.