I am just curious to know some different techniques on how to install this pin without gouging up the lower reciever. I don’t have the fancy roll pin punch set or a dedicated bolt catch pin punch or anything like that, and was curious how other guys get this pin in without said tools.
Duct tape on the inner jaws of a pair of channel-lock pliers. Done it four times this way, and the only time I fouled up the receiver was the first time (hence the addition of duct tape).
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The main way I prevent gouging is vinyl tape (electrical tape). A layer or two of 3M Scotch 33 or Scotch 88 is very tough. Wipe the area down with alcohol (so the tape will stick) and put some tape down. If I’ve been having a bad day, I might put a piece of tape on the sides of the punch and always on the jaws of vise-grips/channel-locks.
Lowe’s and Home Depot sell it.
There are a couple of ways to hold the lower in place while you work. Your imagination is your limit but to me…waiting to get the proper tools is always worth the wait.
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I used to use a pair of Vise-Grips and some electrical tape to squeeze it in, for for the last build I bought a “fancy bolt-catch pin punch”. It was $16 and I’m kicking myself for not having bought one sooner.
I’ve tried a bunch of different ways over the years, but I’m happiest with the roll pin starters and the slabsided Brownell’s punch.
Vise-Grips with the jaws covered in electrical tape has worked well on lowers for me. Oil the roll pins and holes so the pin goes in easy. Make sure the pin starts straight in the hole and that everything is aligned. If I did a lot of lowers I’d buy the proper tools but this work around isn’t bad at all. I adjust the screw so the jaws only close a little, then readjust so the pin moves just slightly each time I close the jaws.
No gouging for either roll pin plus you’re less likely to break off a trigger guard ear. To get the pin flush a punch or nail can be used.
I’d usually (carefully) start the pin with a jewler’s hammer then finish pressing it in with electrical-taped channel lock pliers. Done a good number this way and never had any marring or ear breakage.
Thanks guys, for the responses. I had thought about vice grips, but I always imagined that the pin could easily be pressed in crooked this way and cause trouble, but if so many people are using this method, then I may as well try. I guess its safer than using a hammer and a punch that is not designed for the job. And my reasoning for not buying the tools is the same as a previous poster pointed out, this will be my one and only AR and I only plan to do this once.
"this will be my one and only AR and I only plan to do this once. " That’s what I said 8 lowers ago. :laugh:
+1 for this.
Maybe one day when funds allow I will have two or three. This is my third one so far, and I have never had more than one at a time, so I’m not doin too bad yet. This is my first build though, the other two were factory DPMS, and then S&W. Movin on up to a BCM upper on a Noveske lower. My dream rifle pretty much.
mhanna91: It’s a disease and after you build one it becomes much more “yours” than one you buy off the rack, so to speak. Good luck on the build and welcome to the AR-15 Ward! 
Three or more layers of masking tape covering the sides of the receiver should help.
Thank you guys for all the responses. Looks like I am going to try my luck with a bunch of tape on the reciever, and some electrical tape on a pair of vice grips or channel-locks.
Taped vise grips is how I did it before I bought the tools. It works, just be liberal with the tape and oil the hole before you start. You may also want to use a small piece of plastic or something on the receiver lug as a pad for the pliers to bear against - vise grip jaw serrations can mar your lower, even through layers of tape.
I used electrical tape myself.
Works for me every time with a liberal application of duct tape. The only time I’ve scratched a lower up was the first time I tried using vice grips. Guess I’m a simple kinda guy.
the same way i do all pins… stick in the closest match punch to hold the part together, then from the other end, tap the roll pin in with a roll punch and hammer.
never had any trouble, nor do i think i’ve ever marred anything
+1 on the tape. I use a brass drift with success. But agree it would be easier with the pliers.
I am still amazed at the number of AR owners who won’t spend a little money to get the correct tools. I don’t have the special flat side punch either, and I have never had a problem installing the roll pin.
Slowly purchase the things you need and you’ll be amazed at how easy it will be to work on your AR down the road.