Any of you Hi-power owners please give me a hand on this one. I have an '81MkI Hi-power has just started to have a problem with light primer strikes after I’ve fired many hundreds of rounds thru it with no issues. Ever three or fours rounds I’ll get a light strike on the primer(the round will fire with another strike). This is with factory WWB 115FMJ ammo. With the softer primers of Fed. factory ammo I don’t seem to have this problem. It would be nice if the pistol would handle any type of ammo like it used to. I replaced the recoil spring several hundred rounds ago. Does this sound like a mainspring issue? If not, any other ideas? Thanks for any help. 
WB
Probably time to replace the hammer spring.
Actually I would replace all the springs.
Have you checked the firing pin channel for residue build-up?
Thanks for the advice, Thomas. I think the recoil spring is still GTG, but the hammer spring (mainspring) may need replacement.
Redhat- that’s a good thought on the firing pin channel- I’ll check it.
I would consider a mainspring replacement for an almost 30 year old semiauto. Checking the channel, firing pin tip, and so forth isn’t a bad idea either. BHPs, at least in my experience, are very good when it comes to ignition.
About a week ago I had a handload that a new Sigma failed to fire in spite of an admittedly light strike. In fairness the primer was more deeply seated than I like, and the headspace in a gauge was excessive as well; in other words, a bad round on my part. A few days later I chambered that round in a BHP Mk III and away it went.
Best BHP place I know is Stephen Camp’s site at http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/
His book on them is excellent also.
It could even be a worn firing pin. Sounds like it’s time for a minor rebuild.
More good advice, guys. I think I’ve got enough parts for the minor rebuild! Also, the firing pin replacement idea made me think that the firing pin spring might be part of the problem. WB
Hello,
There’s some good BHP spring info via. the following link that should help you out. http://handgunsandammo.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=fnhipower&action=display&thread=9977
I was issued a P-35 around twenty five years ago. The pistols ran fine with premium ammo. They would not fire the sub gun ammo. Colt 9mm Commanders would.
Hello,
In 1972 FN made a production change to the firing pin spring. The old spring had a wire diameter of approximately .024". The new spring is approximately 1/8" longer & is made made from .030" diameter wire.
Some time in the 1970’s after the production change was made to the firing pin spring, FN started receiving reports regarding no fires & light strikes. This was because the original 26 Lb. mainspring didn’t deliver enough force to over come the new firing pin spring when using ammo with hard primers and they then (sometime in the 70’s) went to the 32 Lb. mainspring and all was well again.
From what I understand most of the hard primers was mainly in Middle Eastern Ammo, but I still always upgrade older HPs that I work on to a 32 Lb. Factory Browning mainspring.
From past experience , I also recommend cleaning the firing pin channel . Good chance you’ll find bits of brass , powder , goop which will impede movement .
Also , some tend to apply oil down the firing pin hole . Combined with winter cold this will retard movement .
I have seen broken firing pins , but never “worn” pins .
I’ve got a '77 BHP that AFAIK is still on it’s original hammer spring. I had to replace every other spring, and clean all the gunk out of every recess in the pistol. The hammer spring is a PITA to change, so I’d try a through cleaning before I went down that road.
How many rounds through it, or even hammer manipulations for that matter? The fact it was made in 1977 proves nothing about their durability, unless it was fired a lot. Hammer springs will normally last longer than the other springs on the pistol, but they do need to be replaced. I agree with you about the ass pain of changing hammer springs, especially if you use 32lb ones.
I don’t have a round count, but the internals were beat to hell. The sear spring was so soft the new one felt completely rigid by comparison. The recoil and firing pin springs were easily 25% shorter then the new ones, and the sear\hammer mating surfaces looked like they had been attacked with a screw driver. The gun was going typewriter every three to five shots before I replaced the internals, but the hammer spring was still plenty strong. Now the pistol is 100% reliable and I’ve had no ignition issues with all kinds of ammo.
I checked the firing pin channel per advice and it did have a lot of grunge in it. Throughly cleaned it and checked the firing pin and spring which were both fine as is the recoil spring. So, hopefully, tomorrow I’ll give it a good workout with some factory Win., Rem, and Fed. ammo. Thanks for the helpful advice. WB
I agree.
While I was at it I would replace all the springs. Mr. Stephen’s website has a schedule of when springs should be changed, based on round count. It will help you to keep your gun up and running if you change the springs as indicated.
Biker
Ok- 35 rounds of PMC, Win & Fed went bang with no drama. Only change was a clean FP channel per advice- thanks! I am indeed chagrined that I had let it get so dirty. My 1911s must be much more tolerant of the “grunge” factor! 
WB
I bought a Hi Power that had ignition problems. I traced it to an eroded firing pin, that as opposed to worn. I got a bunch of brass with it and examining the brass, about 500 pieces had pierced primers from high pressure.
This ruined the firing pin and caused some erosion of breech face. Spooked, I peddled it to my brother who bought it knowing it’s history of abuse. It was stolen from him. Very good looking pistol.